Suzuki Forums banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I will likely be spending a lot of time here. I recently purchased a 96 Tracker 4x4 1.6 Auto basket case with a fresh rebuilt block. It was someone else's project for about 6 years, and they got tired of it in their garage. I pulled the "rebuilt" engine out of their basement, and 4 large plastic totes of random brackets/bolts/parts from the garage and dug the truck out from under a pile of junk and pushed it 4 houses down the block to my garage. I have put everything back together with trial and error, but when I turn the key on, the lights come on, but no one is home. No click from starter, no real noises other than what sounds like something from the ABS area. However all dash lights work, DRL, tail lights, etc along with Service Engine Soon message. But I hooked up the OBDII scanner and it says there are no codes. The other odd thing is the Temperature gage reads max Hot. I'm told it ran when it was parked and the engine was yanked. The only mistake I know I've done so far was I hooked the alternator lead to the intake plenum thinking it was a ground. That caused me to blow the main F1 fuse under hood, and a bit of sparking at the battery terminal.
Some instant oddities to me, I cannot get the shifter out of Park. I was going to try and put it in Neutral to see if it was some type of shift interlock problem, but it will not come out of park. I haven't jacked up the back tires to try and spin them yet to see if it is bound up on the parking pawl.
I can make the starter spin by shorting the 2 terminals on the solenoid, but it doesn't actually spin the motor over. That makes me think the starter is not engaging/popping out because the flywheel does not turn.
I know we need air, fuel, and spark to go boom, but if it won't try to turn over we have bigger fish to fry.
I'm looking for some guidance. I've googled for a starter relay location, but haven't found a location.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Check your battery,cables,grounds, make sure you are getting the correct voltage at the starter you might have to pull the starter and bench test it. Mine sat for a long time but worked fine after I got a better connection after cleaning all the terminals.. The relays are to the left of the glove box under the dash by the radio if I remember correctly, there are 4 relays the top one is the fuel pump relay next one down is the main relay. I have the 5 speed manual trans it has a switch at the clutch pedal when mine went bad I just jumped it with a alligator clip until a new one arrived. You probably have a neutral safety switch that you can jump if its failed.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,894 Posts
my first question before you even look at the starter issues is...

does the engine turn over by hand and is the valve timing correct?

Big terminals on starter shorted, starer will spin, small terminal on solenoid to 12V positive, solenoid should pull in, engage the starter with the flywheel ring gear and the internal switch contacts make, connecting the 2 big terminals on the solenoid making the starter spin and drive the engine.

Got 12V at the small solenoid terminal with the key in the start position?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Flat_lander and Bex

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,483 Posts
Welcome to the forum. This link may be of some help to you - it’s the entire 1996 factory service manual, online and free to use, thanks to Jim Cameron:

The temp gauge at max hot is a wiring issue. And the no start probably is, as well, although I would follow 2013’s advice and make sure you can turn the engine by hand first.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Flat_lander

·
Registered
1995 USA Spec. Sidekick JX 16V. Soft Top with A/C. G16B, 4WD 5sp. manual
Joined
·
9 Posts
Hi Flat lander.
I'm in the same process as you are. Completely rebuilt a 1995 16V 5sp manual and no start, just some clicks from under the dashboard. Very similar issues.
For now I have nothing to add but I'll be watching this discussion. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
my first question before you even look at the starter issues is...

does the engine turn over by hand and is the valve timing correct?

Big terminals on starter shorted, starer will spin, small terminal on solenoid to 12V positive, solenoid should pull in, engage the starter with the flywheel ring gear and the internal switch contacts make, connecting the 2 big terminals on the solenoid making the starter spin and drive the engine.

Got 12V at the small solenoid terminal with the key in the start position?
Valve timing is good. It was cranked over several times by hand with wrench.
Hope to enlist helper to turn key tonight with meter on small spade connector of solenoid to ensure it is getting power when commanded.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Welcome to the forum. This link may be of some help to you - it’s the entire 1996 factory service manual, online and free to use, thanks to Jim Cameron:

The temp gauge at max hot is a wiring issue. And the no start probably is, as well, although I would follow 2013’s advice and make sure you can turn the engine by hand first.
I did find a very old thread where someone else had the same problem with the coolant temp showing Max. I made the assumption that the connector in the starter wire bundle was for the solenoid and the connector with the bundle to injectors was for temp gauge sender. I will confirm tonight with key on test if I have them crossed up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have to say I am super stoked to see everyone active here. This looks like it will be a great little truck when I figure out what is wrong. It is relatively rust free because it was a farm truck initially. I'm in the Midwest and they love salt on the roads, so it can't have been much of a road warrior.
I have a lot of latches, handles, windows, little plastics that will need replacing. But those are topics for another day!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Valve timing is good. It was cranked over several times by hand with wrench.
Hope to enlist helper to turn key tonight with meter on small spade connector of solenoid to ensure it is getting power when commanded.
I can never find a helper so I used a test light, I put the clip on the terminal and stick the tip on a good ground. .I placed it were I could see the light come on when I turn the key I've done the same with my meter also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So with the aid of an assistant, I was able to determine that the wire I had running to the starter solenoid gets 6.24v very briefly when in start position, and then it drops back to a steady 0.72v while still in the start position. I'm guessing that is not normal? Is that enough to maintain power to the solenoid? If normal, that means the starter solenoid is bad.
The wire I thought I would need to swap from the coolant temp gets a steady ~8 to 9v in the run position. So I believe I had the wires in the correct place to begin with. The electric A/C fan is also coming on when the key is in the on position, not sure if that should be or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,894 Posts
nope, that solenoid wire needs battery volts or thereabouts on it to run the solenoid, so 6.24 isn't enough to even make the solenoid start to move. Check for voltage on the start contact of the ignition switch to prove the switch (use a test light to load it a bit) then start chasing it back to the solenoid until you find the issue.

double check you are actually on the start wire from the switch, I suspect you are, and you have a bad connection or a broken wire somewhere. Check the crimp at he lug where it connects to the starer, even ring bark the wire an inch away and test. Not uncommon to have them break at the connection.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Funny you mention that connector breaking at the connection. It did that when I was trying to test it. I peeled some wire back and tried to solder it. I will need to find a replacement spade connector.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,894 Posts
Funny you mention that connector breaking at the connection. It did that when I was trying to test it. I peeled some wire back and tried to solder it. I will need to find a replacement spade connector.
Now check the rest of the connections in that circuit, if ones gone bad, what's the chances? They were all new at the same time....
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,161 Posts
Now check the rest of the connections in that circuit, if ones gone bad, what's the chances? They were all new at the same time....
Do bear in mind that that one connection is the only one affected by the vibration of the engine and exposed to oil, dirt & water
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I got impatient last night, and went straight for kill shot. Ran jumper wire from solenoid straight to battery. Turns over and has spark, but no start yet. However, It coughed a few times like it wanted to. Oil light is still on, but I've confirmed there is oil getting up to rockers. Need to hook up pressure gauge to confirm but I suspect gauge or wiring fault. I also need to find the best way to confirm fuel is getting to injectors, and injectors are firing. I don't have one of those fancy lights to plug on injectors yet. Once confirmed I guess it would leave incorrect timing on distributor, or just old gas. I haven't added any fresh gas yet.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,483 Posts
You can make your own noid light to test injection with a couple of wires and an LED bulb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You can make your own noid light to test injection with a couple of wires and an LED bulb.
I tried one of those little christmas lights. I put one of the light bulb wires on each of the connectors and didn't get a light. I also put a volt meter between the 2 connectors while cranking it didn't see anything register, so that appears to be another problem. The good news is, I have a solid, steady 38 lbs of oil pressure while cranking, so the oil light is again just a connection problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,894 Posts
I tried one of those little christmas lights. I put one of the light bulb wires on each of the connectors and didn't get a light. I also put a volt meter between the 2 connectors while cranking it didn't see anything register, so that appears to be another problem. The good news is, I have a solid, steady 38 lbs of oil pressure while cranking, so the oil light is again just a connection problem.
use 2 leds wired reversed to each other, 600 ohm resistor in series then polarity isn't important. You won't see an injector pulse on a meter (unless its a scope) as the meter won't react fast enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Despite my internal protest, I feel I should slow down and focus on fixing 1 thing at a time. I am going to back up and focus on making this thing crank with key. I have pulled up the linked manual and am reading through the troubleshooting section. I'll try and keep this thread on topic, and will likely have follow-ups.
 

·
Registered
1995 USA Spec. Sidekick JX 16V. Soft Top with A/C. G16B, 4WD 5sp. manual
Joined
·
9 Posts
Flat_lander,
I've made some progress with a similar issue and maybe the following can be of some use to you.
First I double checked all ground wires and noticed two connectors coming from a small ground cable loom near the intake manifold.
One single wired connector and one double wired connector.
Turned out I had both connected to the fire wall (red arrow) while none at a bolt right under the main vacuum line (green arrow).
I connected the double wired connector to the manifold and the car now starts when connecting the starter motor solenoid to a positive lead.
101062
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top