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I have a 1996 Tracker 1.6 16v 5sp 4x4. Last summer I blew the engine and have replaced it with a 1.6 JDM I believe is from an Esteem. The engine has been in the truck for several weeks and I have been doing diagnostics on it ever sense. The engine runs but has no power. To make the engine work I had to use My cam and distributor. With that new oil and water pumps and timing belt. Now after getting it into the truck it just cant move the truck. The first thing I did was the compression test, All 4 are 128 to 132, Is this the problem I can't find anything else wrong. I have rechecked the timing and it is correct.
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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Go back and set the engine timing (cam). dont fret on the ignition timing until ready....

..... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No Power

I did pull the front of the engine down and checked the cam timing, #4 TDC to E on the cam gear. I pulled the belt off and replaced it. I have check the EGR all that is clean.
 

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I would assume that the JDM engine pulls the same compression as the rest of the Suzuki 16v's, which would be 190 psi on a warm engine. Presumably you did the compression test with all the plugs removed, and the gas pedal floored while cranking. If so, your results indicate that the engine timing is off. The E mark on the cam gear is at 12:00 and the E key is at 6:00, and the crank key is at 12:00.
 

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Yes, I have done the compression several times with the same results all 4 at approx. 130 psi. The engine does run with a slight miss at idel you would think nothing of if it would pull the truck. I have pull the exaust and driven it without a change.
 

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The 130psi is too low, have you inspected the Woodruff key way on the crankshaft.

If that is OK, you should consider a leak down test to check the engine health....

..... Philip
 

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The problem with the crank key occurs when people mistakenly remove the crank pulley when doing the timing belt, and then do not torque the pulley bolt properly when replacing it. The bolt should be torqued to 94 ft/lbs. If you removed the pulley when doing your timing, or find that the pulley bolt is not torqued as it should be, you need to remove the pulley and check the keyway to see if its been sheared. Hopefully not, although there is a fix on the forum. And, as usual, x2 to Philip's advice above. You really can't go any further with your issue until you get the compression where it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Crank key is fine, I replaced the oil pump so that I could use crank angle sensor. I torked it to 94 ft pnds. I have not done a leak down test as yet. I will do one tonight.
 

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It does sound like a cam timing issue.
 

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X4 on valve timing, compression test methodology, or valve adjustment.

Just my experience with a JDM replacement engine in my '95 Tracker; I had to use the following parts from the original engine:
1. intake manifold & throttle body
2. distributor & case (but not cam)
3. valve cover (due to PVC pipe configuration)
4. injector harness (OBD I)
5. flexplate
6. EGR valve (thermoprobe)

ALSO, when replacing the dist., had to rotate the dist., one tooth counterclockwise past #4 TDC compression to enable smooth idle and timing with a light.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The JDM engine I received is from a car that had the distributer at the end of the motor. The cam had no gear for my dist. I used the cam from the origenal. It seems that the isue is with the timing but I have removed the belt and reinstalled with no change. I have done a noid on the injectors all are good.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My friend with the leak down tester is unavailable. I pumped air into the engine with the compression gauge fittings. All seemed fine except that there is air leaking from #3 when I pump up #4. No air leaks into #4 when #3 is pumped up. I didnt have time to go back and check compression on #4. I have to work out of town for a few days wont be able to work on the Tracker until the week end.
 

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The valve timing cannot be correct with values of 128-132. Info on the correct procedure for doing the timing belt is on the forum - you need to confirm that all marks and keys are where they should be, with #4 cylinder on the compression stroke. Also, have you ever checked the valve lash to confirm that they are set correctly? Lash should be .006" on all valves. The FSM for your car is free to download over on Acks FAQS, by the way, so that you have proper info for your car.
Ack's FAQ 1996 Geo Tracker Factory Service Manual
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have removed the timing belt cover and the belt. I reinstalled the belt making sure everything lines up. But with the leak down having air leaking from #4 into #3 it would seam I have valves open at the same time, Or as you said the lash maybe to tight at #4. I did all this on the engine stand first so I had a good view of every thing. I'm worried that I have #4 180 off now. If so how can this thing run at all.
 

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I have removed the timing belt cover and the belt. I reinstalled the belt making sure everything lines up. But with the leak down having air leaking from #4 into #3 it would seam I have valves open at the same time, Or as you said the lash maybe to tight at #4. I did all this on the engine stand first so I had a good view of every thing. I'm worried that I have #4 180 off now. If so how can this thing run at all.
Not so fast there sailor,

If it was a valve issue you would feel air escaping via the exhaust (exh valve) or intake (intake valve).

A ring or piston leak would manifest in the oil sump, and a coolant/head gasket via the radiator...

Chamber to chamber would indicate a cracked block/head (leaks both ways) or a ruptured gasket (can leak only one way)..

When you did the leak down, did you test each cylinder at TDC(c)??

..... Philip
 

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I'm worried that I have #4 180 off now. If so how can this thing run at all.
Apparently it does, others have also reported the engine running, albeit badly, with the timing 180 off.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The leak down was done with all at TDC. This truck runs and can be driven. It cant get out of its own way. The idle has a slight miss and with no load revs fine.
 

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It would be somewhat unlikely that you would have a similar loss of compression in all of your cylinders, as you advise that all of your cylinders are between 128-132 psi. Your compression test indicates that the timing itself is off. You need to check your timing belt, and make sure that you have timed the car to factory instructions.
 

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Does your cam pulley have more than one keyway?
 

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... I'm worried that I have #4 180 off now. If so how can this thing run at all.
Not surprising at all.

If you have the CAM 180 degrees off when setting the valve timing, you'll be setting it with #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke. ... same difference as #4 will be TDC between the exhaust and intake strokes. (#1 and #4 pistons rise and fall at the same time.) Turn the crank one time and it'll be with the marks lined up like the "book" says... #4 on the top of the compression stroke. ... ther ya go! :huh:

But with the numbers you have posted, you have poor compression. ONE reason for low compression id valve timing... it can only take one tooth off. (And it IS harder to get it correct when timed with the cam 180 out... that is why the book has you timing on #4.) But if the timing is CORRECT, you might have received a worn JDM motor.

Have you tried a wet compression check?
 
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