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there are two well known leak sources that can drip all over that area: 1. valve cover seal, 2. distributor o-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I do have an oil leak on my 91, so I'll check those areas (thanks!) but on this 95 I have a pretty significant transmission leak that I'm trying to locate.

there are two well known leak sources that can drip all over that area: 1. valve cover seal, 2. distributor o-ring.
 

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I do have an oil leak on my 91, so I'll check those areas (thanks!) but on this 95 I have a pretty significant transmission leak that I'm trying to locate.
They sell dyes that you can put into the tranny, and the leak then shows up with a black light.
 

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They sell dyes that you can put into the tranny, and the leak then shows up with a black light.
I find red oil is transmission and black is engine...mostly...
Clean everything and puff talcum powder over things, oil leaks become obvious as it cakes rather than blows into a smear.
 

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I find red oil is transmission and black is engine...mostly...
Clean everything and puff talcum powder over things, oil leaks become obvious as it cakes rather than blows into a smear.
LOL. Yes, I understand that, but there are fluorescent dyes that you can put into your red tranny oil, that, when they leak out somewhere, can be seen with a black light, so you can identify where the leak is coming from.
 

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I've used them, went back to the talc method. The dye tracks with the oil, I had a transmission that was burping out the pump to bell housing gasket intermittently, the whole underside of the thing was glowing under the black light, as was transfer case, rear driveshaft and most of the driveshaft tunnel.
I wasn't sure if it was the tc seal, or front of the pan gasket so tossed dye in it. Silly move on my part. But it did look good on the hoist hehe


Its handy stuff, but not suitable for the larger volume events. Theres not many places those things can leak. Its just finding which spot that's the key.
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
That sounds similar to what I have going on. A lot of the fluid is dripping directly on to the catalytic converter, and when that gets hot I get a nice smelly white fog coming out from under the car. I wonder how hot that would have to get to burst into flames. The more I think about it, I'm really concerned that someone would have mounted the trans back to the engine and left out one of the stud bolts. I looked in the hole and just see some dirt and no remnant of a broken off bolt.

I've used them, went back to the talc method. The dye tracks with the oil, I had a transmission that was burping out the pump to bell housing gasket intermittently, the whole underside of the thing was glowing under the black light, as was transfer case, rear driveshaft and most of the driveshaft tunnel.
I wasn't sure if it was the tc seal, or front of the pan gasket so tossed dye in it. Silly move on my part. But it did look good on the hoist hehe


Its handy stuff, but not suitable for the larger volume events. Theres not many places those things can leak. Its just finding which spot that's the key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I got a temporary bolt in place today, between the engine and trans, until I can figure out the correct size I need. It brought the two pieces together nicely and seems quite secure. I will check it again after driving the car a bit. I also fashioned a shield for that exposed part of the flywheel. Finally, I checked all of the trans pan bolts, and each seemed just slightly loose. I just snugged all of them and will see if this affects the leak at all. I added fluid and drove the car and there was no weird shifting or slipping or anything, so the trans may be okay at this point.

As much as you might need the car, don't continue driving without fitting those bolts
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
On this 95, should the front parking lights be on as soon as the car is started? Headlights are not on so I'm assuming no DRL. I also have no instrument panel, climate control or shifter lights lit and I'm checking other threads for possible solutions. I also found a few possible solutions to high beams not coming on when the lever is pressed forward, but they do come on when the momentary lever is pulled back. I'll look into all of this in the next few days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I had problems with the starter in my 91, and when I replaced it with a new one I was shocked (lol) at how much stronger the new starter was. Now in this 95, the starter seems to be weak and having trouble turning over the motor. Of course since last year, the price of starters appears to have increased by 25%. What makes these things get weak over time? Is there a way to R&R the starter to bring it back to life?
 

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Brushes, commutator skim and undercut, and a decent clean and lube of all bushes certainly helps. If the armature is still going strong just a decent clean and new brushes is all it takes

Think about the conditions its in, and how often it gets maintained.
 

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I got a temporary bolt in place today, between the engine and trans, until I can figure out the correct size I need.
Not sure what you mean by correct size.... diameter of those bolts is M12, just pay attention to their fine thread! it's not the regular thread youll find in HW stores,
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Ok, thanks! Do you know if the starter from a 91 8V will fit a 95 16V? I have the older starter from my 91 and could try to clean that one up to use in the 95 before actually removing the one in the 95 and having the car just sit.

Brushes, commutator skim and undercut, and a decent clean and lube of all bushes certainly helps. If the armature is still going strong just a decent clean and new brushes is all it takes

Think about the conditions its in, and how often it gets maintained.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I put about 100 miles on the car today, not by choice, kind of an emergency. It ran great although the check engine light came on and then went back off every 5-10 minutes. I will check the codes very soon. I noticed a hum in the car at 35+ mph, that is not present in my 91. I could even feel it in the accelerator pedal. At first I thought maybe it was in the rear diff, but then I took a sharp left turn on the road at 35 and the noise disappeared for a moment until I straightened out. Could it be a wheel bearing?
 

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Ok, thanks! Do you know if the starter from a 91 8V will fit a 95 16V? I have the older starter from my 91 and could try to clean that one up to use in the 95 before actually removing the one in the 95 and having the car just sit.
I honestly don't know. There's certainly a difference between auto and manual starters, but I'm not sure between the 8V and 16V
 

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It could well be the engine/trans not being firmly bolted togehter, have you put also a nut where it was missing?
I could take that comment to a whole new level.......maybe its on the drivers seat holding the steering wheel :p

Good Point tho, things will now be held together properly, new noises are a distinct possibility
 

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The starters all have the same part number, AT and MT the same For 91 and 95
 
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