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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This car is new to me and I've just started looking at it. It's a 95 automatic 4x4 with non-working AC. The previous owner stated that there is a transmission leak "from an o-ring on top of the trans". The trans leak is pretty significant. I got under it yesterday and all I could see was the pan. The area around the trans looks pretty tight and I was unable to get my phone up on top to get any photos there. Where should I start looking for a leak?

I'd like to make sure the trans is okay before I put money into the rest of the car, but here are some other issues I noticed. (I won't look into the AC until I know the trans is working)

The flywheel appears to be exposed. Is there a cover missing here?

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Torn axle boot. Can this be repaired with RTV sealant or does the whole thing need to come out?
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There is an extra plug next to the starter. Any idea what this goes to?
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I forgot to mention that sometimes when starting I get a grinding sound. Is that the starter solenoid?

Here's a better photo of the plug next to the starter.
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CV boot needs replacing now, as in do it immediately before dirt gets in and turns the grease to grinding paste. I would wash it out, and repack with grease that comes in the boot kits. Leave it and you're in for a new cv joint.

Yes, looks like the dust cover is missing.

Grinding when starting could be anything, starter meshing, loose starter, or dirt or a stone in the ring gear due to the missing cover.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm in a very dirty desert environment, so there is probably already dirt in there. I'll have to remove it and clean and replace the boot, as you said.

Any idea what the part # or exact description is for that dust cover? A search did not turn up anything.

The first I checked was that the starter was on tight and it was. I'll pull it off any take a look. Thank you.

CV boot needs replacing now, as in do it immediately before dirt gets in and turns the grease to grinding paste. I would wash it out, and repack with grease that comes in the boot kits. Leave it and you're in for a new cv joint.

Yes, looks like the dust cover is missing.

Grinding when starting could be anything, starter meshing, loose starter, or dirt or a stone in the ring gear due to the missing cover.
 

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1991 Hardtop 3-door Tracker 1.6L 4WD 5-Speed No A/C
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There are service manuals at the top of this FORUM. Do you have one. I hope you have a cool place to work. Depending on the size of the boot break, you might be able to tell how dirty it is inside.
Do you have any sense or info on how well it has been maintained?
Give us more details -- # miles, engine, transmission, what have you done so far -- if anything -- repair record, accidents, any miles OFF pavement?
Depending on what features/accessories you have there can be unattached plugs around the engine. No cause for alarm at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did download the service manual pdf with 99500_60A10 in the name. The car looks clean inside, has some minor body damage. Not maintained great as I discovered the AC does not work and neither do the high-beams. A relay I guess for the high beams. The whole car seems to lean to the left front when parked so I will need to see what that is about. The odometer reads 260K. The engine cover says 16V on it. It has the auto trans, I assume the 3 speed. I'm not sure how serious the trans problem is. I put a bottle of Lucas stop slip in it to get it here and it drove fine. Before that, at a friends house, it was having some shifting or slipping issues at low speed in his yard. I have no maintenance history on it.

There are service manuals at the top of this FORUM. Do you have one. I hope you have a cool place to work. Depending on the size of the boot break, you might be able to tell how dirty it is inside.
Do you have any sense or info on how well it has been maintained?
Give us more details -- # miles, engine, transmission, what have you done so far -- if anything -- repair record, accidents, any miles OFF pavement?
Depending on what features/accessories you have there can be unattached plugs around the engine. No cause for alarm at this point.
 

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The entire parts catalog for your 95 Tracker is here:
Note that ’2 valve’ means the 8v engine, and ’4 valve’ means the 16v one.
 

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1991 Hardtop 3-door Tracker 1.6L 4WD 5-Speed No A/C
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The car looks clean inside, has some minor body damage. Not maintained great. I have no maintenance history on it.
Any idea if it was driven off-road a lot? That might explain some of the "issues", but with 260,000 miles, a lot of that was highway. How clear is the engine oil -- and the innards when looking under the oil cap on the top of the engine?

If I guessed "Phoenix/Tucson/Sierra Vista AZ" would I be close?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It does not look offroaded to me. I'll check the other issues. Yes, I am in AZ but I think the car came from Washington or UT.

Any idea if it was driven off-road a lot? That might explain some of the "issues", but with 260,000 miles, a lot of that was highway. How clear is the engine oil -- and the innards when looking under the oil cap on the top of the engine?

If I guessed "Phoenix/Tucson/Sierra Vista AZ" would I be close?
 

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1991 Hardtop 3-door Tracker 1.6L 4WD 5-Speed No A/C
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One thing to keep in mind, that MIGHT be relevant to you, is that depending on where your Tracker came from, and the emissions requirements in that location, some owners remove or modify certain parts of the Tracker emission control system -- in hopes of getting better gas mileage, more horse power, etc.
Chances are nothing has been tampered with (and you don't live in an area with emission control requirements) but if something appears missing, this might be it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll keep that in mind if I see anything unplugged. I was thinking of working on some of those mods in the future. Is there an existing thread for such things?

One thing to keep in mind, that MIGHT be relevant to you, is that depending on where your Tracker came from, and the emissions requirements in that location, some owners remove or modify certain parts of the Tracker emission control system -- in hopes of getting better gas mileage, more horse power, etc.
Chances are nothing has been tampered with (and you don't live in an area with emission control requirements) but if something appears missing, this might be it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I got under the car a little better yesterday to try to find that tranny leak and found a few other surprises. Where the engine bolts to the transmission, on the right side, there is a bolt on the engine side, but I just see threads on the tranny side.
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In the same spot on the left side, there is no bolt at all! I had the engine running and could see movement in between the two pieces that should be bolted together.
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This is the area underneath the flywheel, you can see it spinning in there. Should there be a cover over this opening? I'm going to look at the exploded parts view now.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I see now that one of the stud bolts is missing, and the housing cap.

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a stud will be a bit more diffcult to install with engime/tranny in place, a hex head bolt could be easier. and sure add the missing nut on other side an check the two upper (#11) bolts for torque.

that missing rubber cover is just a dust ingress protector. clean the surrounidng surface with thinners and put a piece of duct tape on hole

or RTV a small piece of scrap plastic if you want to make a "de-luxe" fix
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks. Yes, I'm not sure how that stud bolt is missing unless it was not put in when reassembled or it broke. Now that I know what I'm looking for, I'll check to see if anything is stuck in the threaded hole. I was thinking a regular bolt might work, but I realize it may not hold the pieces together as well because the stud bolt is larger in the middle between the threaded parts. That may be my only option unless I want to unbolt the transmission. The parts view does not show a nut on the other end of that stud bolt so maybe it doesn't get one on the tranny side? I'll see if I get can to the top bolts to check them. It's VERY tight around the transmission! I'm still looking for the source of the leak. It didn't leak when sitting with the engine running and shifting it through P to 1 and back. I'll have to drive it around the driveway and check immediately after. I also discovered the Park safety button does not work. The shifter can be moved out of park without pressing the thumb button on the side of the shifter. Thanks for your help.

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a stud will be a bit more diffcult to install with engime/tranny in place, a hex head bolt could be easier. and sure add the missing nut on other side an check the two upper (#11) bolts for torque.

that missing rubber cover is just a dust ingress protector. clean the surrounidng surface with thinners and put a piece of duct tape on hole

or RTV a small piece of scrap plastic if you want to make a "de-luxe" fix
 

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The shoulder on the stud only assists with alignment when mating bell housing to engine. Fit a bolt.
 

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and in any case, any bolt or stud is limited in tensile stregth by the root diameter of the thread, not the thickness in the center part. these bolts work mostly in tension mode, the shear force is taken b the clamping force friction and the little #10 sleeves.
use you phone video to "look" into hard to reach areas..... or an old school small mirror on stick
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok. I didn't know how important the shoulder was to maintaining alignment after tightened down. Thanks.

The shoulder on the stud only assists with alignment when mating bell housing to engine. Fit a bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I was just thinking that the shoulder of the stud would keep the two parts aligned when joined, but that may not be a concern. I have an older phone I'm using and it won't fit into some places. I may need to get a small inspection camera to look at the top of the trans to look for my leak.

and in any case, any bolt or stud is limited in tensile stregth by the root diameter of the thread, not the thickness in the center part. these bolts work mostly in tension mode, the shear force is taken b the clamping force friction and the little #10 sleeves.
use you phone video to "look" into hard to reach areas..... or an old school small mirror on stick
 
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