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Discussion Starter #1
hey long time lurker... first time poster here.

cant get anybody with an answer over on the mini truck forum, so thought id try you guys here....

got a 95 Carry with low miles & no exhaust smoke. but its got a ton of blow by from the puke tube.

the previous owner ran the tube all the way to the back with the exhaust & it has a steady flow of smoke out of the puke tube.

what causes this? motor has good vacuum.. & doesnt burn any oil..

are these little motors known for this?
 

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compression test first, then leak down.... we will then know the health of the engine instead of guessing...

... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #3
got a compression gauge, will try to get that done this weekend.


was afraid someone was gonna say it was a valve too tight, cause had the valve cover off & man those wont be any fun to adjust if its something like that.

but for some more background to go with what is already posted:

50K on the motor.
did new plugs, wires, button, cap, all new vac lines,filters & so on...

not sure on the timing cause i could never get it to idle good enough to set it with the light. it either idles at about 1500 or it dies.

just timed it by ear/feel.

would love to find a guy in my area who is familiar with these motors & let someone who knows whats what take a look at it.

but until then? will use what you guys wanna share with me & do what i can with it.

my next one will be EFI for sure.
 

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Compression test dry/warm first, then
wet (tsp of oil)

Ignition disabled, throttle fully open

... Philip
 

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I fail to see why a "valve too tight" would be the suspected cause of excessive blow by - to my mind, excessive blow will essentially be a case of worn/stuck rings. If the motor has been torn down we can add improperly installed rings, but that's about it.

Phil's suggestion is the starting point - wet & dry compression tests.
 

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I fail to see why a "valve too tight" would be the suspected cause of excessive blow by - to my mind, excessive blow will essentially be a case of worn/stuck rings. If the motor has been torn down we can add improperly installed rings, but that's about it.

Phil's suggestion is the starting point - wet & dry compression tests.
these K6A's are also known to pop head gaskets and blow into the timing chain cover area causing heaps of blowby. Compression test will confirm this, if #1 cyl is low this would be my guess as to what has happened. I do have a K6A engine manual in pdf but it may not cover your exact model. about 9 megs in size.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
^^^^^ and this is why i ask the questions! :D


you guys with experience verses a dude just reading on the internet.

it was posted in one of the mini truck threads on MTT that "somehow" the valve train got tighter? & this was allowing a valve to stay partially open, creating pressure/smoke in the valve cover & out the puke tube....

gonna do that compression test this weekend & will post what i get here.


about that: dont understand the tsp of oil? what do i do with that & how does it work into the test?

thanks!
 

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^^^^^ and this is why i ask the questions!

about that: dont understand the tsp of oil? what do i do with that & how does it work into the test?

thanks!
The oil is added to the cyl to assist the rings seal, if there is a difference between the dry and wet, that indicates a compression ring issue..

If that test is negative, the leak down test will isolate the leak...

... Philip
 

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A valve staying open will vent the pressure into either the intake or exhaust, not into the valve cover - whoever suggested that is way off base.

Regarding the teaspoon of oil - you pour it into the plug hole when doing the "wet" compression test - essentially you're "wetting" the bore/ring with oil to help it seal better. An engine that has low compression because of worn bores/rings will usually show a significant increase in compression numbers between the wet & dry tests. if the low compression is because of leaking valves or head gasket, the wet & dry numbers will be similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
hey guys went out & ddid the test as you guys suggested.

more confused now than before.

#1 cyl 120 dry.. 140 wet

#2 cyl 80 dry.. 80 wet

#3 cyl 82 dry... 82 wet

motor was warm but not hot. (had to drive it to my garage from the building)

checked pvc valve & line it was working & had suction..

next thing was the oil fill plug. took it off while engine running & smoke just pours out, no wonder the puke tube has a steady trail of smoke coming out of it.

there isnt any popping or puffing coming out of the valve cover, just a steady stream of smoke. idle is pretty smooth & you cant "hear" a miss in the motor.

ill look for that other thread from MTT & let you guys disect that cause this is above my experience level.

thanks!

sk
 

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hey guys went out & ddid the test as you guys suggested.

more confused now than before.

#1 cyl 120 dry.. 140 wet

#2 cyl 80 dry.. 80 wet

#3 cyl 82 dry... 82 wet

thanks! sk
No confusion, :confused: that engine is tired and requires a major overhaul...

.... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #12
at 50,000 kilo's? crap that really sucks balls.


havent been able to find that other thread yet again, its saved on my work com.. so might be Monday before can get it posted here.

they mentioned that if you have an oil leak out the cam seal (YES I DO) its from the pressure in the cover... & something about valve seats being fragile & usually broken.

ive rebuilt engines, but they have always been small block v8's. really easy to do & just follow the torque specs, these little boogers seem a bit more involved than that.

not sure if this is a cup of tea i can drink or not.

the mini is in great shape & the a/c works... its been handy as a shirt pocket. maybe i'll have to upgrade.

hmmmm

more input is welcome!
 

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These engine are no different than any other engine, they all
suck,
squeeze,
bang and
blow...

.... Philip
 

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Next step is to do a "leak down" test - this is a little more complicated as it requires a leak down tester and a source of compressed air.

It going to tell you you have excessive leakage, which we already know from the compression tests, but more importantly it'll give you an idea of where that leakage is occurring.

The fact that there is little change between the wet & dry number on 2 & 3 suggests that the leakage is not past the rings, it may be through the valves (out of adjustment or burned), in which case you'll hear the hiss of air escaping into either the intake or exhaust systems, or possibly a bad head gasket.

Ultimately, as Phil has said, it looks like you're going to be tearing that engine down - incidentally - mileage is only a rudimentary indicator of engine wear, if that mini truck was used as a yard runaround, it would have seen a lot of very short trips where the engine never got to operating temperature.

We used them as tech support field service vehicle, and a typical day might see 8~10 trips of no more than 5~10 kms, not enough time to warm up, and more than enough to cool down.
 

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Here is my take on this, most probable that the compression is low on all cylinders with #2&3 have additional valve seat issues.

So yes if you wish to be certain, a leak-down is in order. However since it has to have a complete over haul, I would pull it, hang on a engine stand and tear it down to a bare block...

Rebuild/deck head,
remove pistons and hone cylinders,
rebuild pistons, rings/bearings.
inspect and replace bottom end bearings..... or

find a good running engine and swap. but then you may be into a different can of worms.. better the devil you know!

... Philip
 

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leakdown will help, I suspect however its going to be a strip down to find the exact cause. Think of it as 1/2 of a V6 hehehe the fact 2 and 3 are down together worries me as well, I'm wondering if its blown a head gasket between the cyls but that wouldn't account for the blowby, UNLESS its also blown into one of the oil return galleries. This would account for all the symptoms. Not saying this is whats happened, but its a possibility. The 3 cyl Altos, and the G10? in the wee subaru justy's are good at doing this too.

I'd pull the head for a start and check things out. Dumping a bit of kerosene into the bores with the head off will show any major leakage, it will run past worn rings into the sump. You're going to change the oil anyway, its a simple check if you see no obvious signs of head gasket damage.

Simple enough to do, and like all Japanese engine, a bit fiddly in places. Its no 350 chevvy for sure but same principles apply. Strip, check, measure, replace, refit.
if it has done a head gasket, get the head surface checked for straightness, and check the block as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
you guys give great info & im gonna have to think on what to do with all of it for a bit....

i dont have a leak down tester but will ask around at work & see if any of the guys who do the 4 bangers all the time have one.

looked it up & was surprised by what those cylinders should have been holding! when saw that 120 on the 1st cyl... thought oh this wont be bad..

then got the 80's on the next 2 & said uh oh... THEN when i read they should have been up around 150ish? sad face :(

might have to keep driving it for a bit & just let it be a nat killer until winter & do the project then.

will keep checking back for more info & let you guys know if i find someone in my area who has done one of these motors before to supervise me.

thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
guess im gonna look around for a donor motor & go thru it this winter....cant be without my mini, we use it every day.

swap them out on a weekend in the winter. will probably just go ahead & do the clutch/PP & throw out while im there with it all apart.


that is unless i score another one & then trade/sell this one off.

my wife wants me to move to an AT model so she can drive it around.
 
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