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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1994 Tracker(the one in my signature) and as I turn the key to the on position, it pops the F/I fuse. I have checked everything that I can think of pertaining to this and I still cannot figure it out.
I have searched the forum and found a few more things to test but yet I still have this issue. I pulled the left taillight and disconnected the connector but when I turned the key, the fuse popped. I can disconnect the ig coil meter fuse and the F/I fuse will not pop when I turn the key. I tried disconnecting the connector from the ignition coil and the F/I fuse popped. I am stumped at this point.
My wife told me that the whole issue started when she stopped at a stop sign and then turned left. She said that she heard the fuse pop. She told me that she left it parked for the rest of the day and that evening she put another fuse in it and it started. She went on to say that it drove fine for the whole next day. The day after it did it again and that's where we are right now.
Any help would be awesome.
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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You have a short to ground between the 2 point, you need to use a meter or tone generator to locate...

.....Philip
 

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Hopefully you are handy with an ohm-meter?

The FI circuit is pretty extensive and includes the Fuel Pump and much, much more. The IG coil fuse controls the Main Relay which will not activate FI circuit when the IG fuse is removed. So it sounds like the problem is somewhere in the FI circuit.

I don't have a 94 but believe the Fuel Pump Relay is located right next to the Main Relay and if you can isolate the Fuel Pump (so it doesn't energize) that may help you to determine if you need to look to the rear of the truck again. Tho I wondered if there was a wire shorting when she applied the brakes?

I would also double check for wire corrosion (or rubbing) behind the drivers tail lite.

I am surprised you didn't get more responses today.

I think if you can use an ohm-meter and the problem is no longer intermittent you will have a better chance locating the problem.
 

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Under your dash, you will have 2 relays - the main relay (black) and the fuel pump relay (green). The main relay and fuel pump relay are serviced by both the blue/black wire (F1 fuse) and the black/white wire (ig-coil), and these relays are interchangeable. You can try switching them around, removing one or the other, etc., to see if/when the F1 blows to try to locate the circuit. The fact that it is somewhat intermittent would seem to indicate a short to ground in the wiring.
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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Using a NON Destructive Tone Generator, would be much simpler than a meter..

Just connect the generator to the outgoing fuse blade and trace the loom/circuit with the wand. The tone will change when you are at or beyond the section in error. The circuit does not require to be powered (no fuse blowing).

... Philip
 

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Cool. My next new 'toy'. I just got a borescope that I'm having loads of fun with. The tone generator looks pretty neat, too.
 

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Isn't it great that I can sit on my big behind and shop all over the world??? Thanks for the link - I just bought it..... :)
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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You will be surprised at how smart people think you are when you find the short/break in minutes, when they have spent days searching and cutting harnesses...

Good for you trying a new technology (to you). I have one since the mid 80's.

...... Philip
 

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For $19, I'll try anything. ;)
Yes! and to think I paid well over 200.00 (couple of weeks pay) when I bought my first. They were not very compact (like a lunch box) in those days either.. My second one was incorporated within a DWELL/RPM meter..(used when setting mechanical points).

.... Philip
 

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I wish you were my neighbor....:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all of the responses. Ok, update time. I unplugged the ECM and the fuse did not blow so we ordered a computer. This did not fix the problem. While I was removing the ECM I found two black relays just hanging by their wiring above the ECM. After installing the new ECM and discovering that it was still popping the fuse, I unplugged one of those relays. I unplugged the one with the green connector. F/I fuse still popped. I plugged that relay back in and unplugged the other relay, the one with the white connector and the fuse did not pop. After messing around with my DVOM for a bit, I found that if I removed the blue wire with the black stripe from the connector and plugged the connector back into the relay, The relay would energize and the F/I fuse would not pop. So, I believe that the issue is caused by this blue wire with the black stripe. Does anyone have any info on where this blue wire with the black stripe goes????
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Oh and thanks Aquanaut20 for the link, I bought the tone generator too!!!!!
 

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Man is everyone having wiring issues this summer or what =/ thanks for the link I'll be getting one before I continue working on mine since my next mission was most likely going to be un-wrapping the harness =(
 

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The green relay under the dash is for the fuel pump, and the black/white one is for the main relay. That blue/black wire runs to the main relay. It then runs throughout the car, running from the main relay not only to the fuel pump, but to the EGR solenoid, the EVAP solenoid, torque converter (if auto), idle speed solenoid, distributor, injectors, etc.
 
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