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Good morning all. My 1994 Tracker with the 16 valve is having idle issues. This problem has been coming on gradually over the past several months. Now, when you start it cold after sitting over night it starts up and idles at 800 rpm, (used to idle faster than that when cold). Idle is smooth. By the time I drive it a few miles to work it will barely idle fast enough to keep running, like 200 rpm. If I drive it for thirty minutes and get it completely warmed up it just dies when you push the clutch in at a stop light. If you maintain the idle with the accelerator pedal it idles smooth. I am an old 80's chevy guy so havent had much to do with computer controlled cars. I think this Tracker might have an idle air control motor that regulates air in at idle to maintain idle speed? If so is there something on it that needs adjusted or cleaned so it works properly? The car runs fine other than that and fuel economy hasnt changed since this problem has gotten worse. It had 95,000 miles on it when I bought it and I did the timing belt on it at that time. Car has 125,000 on it now. I replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor on it about 10,000 miles ago. Always seems to average about 25-6 miles per gallon which its done since I bought it 5 years ago. Any help will be greatly appreciated!
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1991 Hardtop 3-door Tracker 1.6L 4WD 5-Speed No A/C
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Hello,
Others will join in with, but from what you've said, you've taken good take of it with regular maintenance.
The first thing that comes to mind is the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculator) valve. It needs to be cleaned every 100,000-125,000 miles or so -- or replaced.
If you have a service manual, it is easy to check without removing it. You can press the valve on the backside with your fingers to see if it moves freely. If stuck -- due to dirt -- it needs cleaning or replacing.
Do a SEARCH (above at top of screen) for EGR. You'll find lots of discussion about the symptoms and how to resolve it.
I hope that's the problem. It's easy to fix.
 

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1991 Hardtop 3-door Tracker 1.6L 4WD 5-Speed No A/C
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Harvey,

Welcome to the FORUM.

A couple of ideas.

First tell us more details about what you are driving -- and the problem. How did you know it needed a new water pump?

You should do a SEARCH for TPS. There are lots of people that had problems with it. This will help with diagnosis and solutions.

Also, you should start a new thread -- such as TPS OR WATER PUMP PROBLEM??? -- so that you get a better response.
 

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I have a problem with my 1994 Geo Tracker, car was sitting for a couple months and needed a water pump done to it. just changed the water pump and since this happeneds with the accelerator pedal. I messed with the tps sensor and nothing changed any ideas why its doing this?
Please start your own post, indicating exactly what you are driving, what tests, if any, you have done, etc., rather than complicating the original thread here. You’ll get help for your individual issue, rather than combining it with someone else’s difficulty.
 

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84Chevy: Yes, your car does have an idle speed solenoid. If you follow the vacuum hose that goes from the air filter to the MAF (a black plastic box on that hose), the hose on the other side of the MAF leads directly to the idle speed solenoid. One way to test to see if it is working is to block off the vacuum hose before the MAF when your engine is running. Your idle should reduce considerably, with vacuum to the ISC blocked.
There is also a wax pellet valve that is meant to raise the idle on cold start, but this valve closes as the engine warms uP. As you advise that your issue exists when the engine is warm, I would not suspect this valve (and actually may think that it is what is giving you the 800rpm idle while the engine is cold).
So, block off that vacuum hose at the MAF (you can do this with the engine at cold start) and see if your idle drops.
What happens when you rev the engine, with the engine warmed up? Does it bog, or are the revs ok? A blocked EGR valve would cause the rev to bog (like a dirty carb).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the info I will try pinching off the hose and see what that does to it. When it idles slow it responds normally to any throttle given to it, doesnt bog or hesitate at all. When its cold as in the first start of the day it idles fine but by the time I get to work 2 miles away then its already doing the slow idle thing. It may or may not idle correctly when I go home for lunch or go home for the evening.
 

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The 16v engine does not have a throttle opener, so when your engine starts from cold, it should rev to about 1500 rpm or so, and then slowly drop to 800 rpm within about 5 minutes or so, as the engine heats up. The 16v engine uses the MAF to indicate vacuum to the computer. If there is a vacuum leak before the MAF (so that it is not seeing all the air coming into the engine) the idle will be lower. This can also happen if the screen in the MAF is dirty. This can be cleaned specifically with a MAF cleaner, like CRC brand.
But you may also need to calibrate the idle switch in the throttle position sensor. But see if there is a vacuum leak before the MAF, or if cleaning the MAF helps your issue.
There is an idle speed solenoid on your car as well. This photo here shows you it’s location, and if you pinch the vacuum hose (where it says ISC test) your idle should drop, if the ISC is working properly. You can take the ISC off the car to check it (note you will lose some coolant as one of the hoses is a coolant hose). If you shake it, it shouldn’t rattle. If it does, it’s damaged. If you want to bench test the ISC, you can only give it 12v for about a second, and then let it rest for 10 seconds before trying again. There is a plunger and spring inside of it, and that plunger is meant to vibrate about 20x a second.
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info and photo! I will be working on this Saturday. Mine right now idles at about 800 cold then goes down from there. Other projects this weekend includes replacing my driver side interior door handle and getting my heater assembly put back together. On the heater the dang mice have found a way into my car and like to get in the squirrel cage of the blower motor and go for a ride when I turn the key on and the switch happens to be on. This is the 4th time this has happened. If the heater is set to inside air then the blower is wide open the the interior of the car so they can just hop right in there. I started keeping it switched to outside air and solved the issue for awhile then the little bastards chewed the foam away on that little extra flap on the inside/outside air door and still got in there, grrrr! Got to cover that little flap with tin so they cant get in there again. Does anybody know of a common place they might be getting in the car at? Had the Tracker for 5 years and just the last year they started
getting in.
 

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cute little things! luckily (?) i have only a big rat popping up in my yard every year or two,

too big to fit into car holes, or at least never had a bother, but they are able to chew even 2mm plastic if they have to.....

one fell into a tall plastic trash bin once, was able eat out a nice 3cm round hole at the edge of the cover to get out.

spotted one yesterday, left him some poison cookies to eat, the good boy finished them all! yummy for him

i know they are kind of nasty device, but if i was you, i would leave some simple glue traps near entry points
 

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Mice can fit through a hole the size of a dime. The ductwork for the heater is here….maybe that’s their access??
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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Mix a cup of flour and 1/2 cup baking soda, leave out for rats and mice, they cannot expel the gasses created when the ingest the treat, they fall over and die.. This is not toxic for other animals...
 

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'95 Vitara SUV, 16V, G16B engine, manual, Gasoline, 3doors
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The 16v engine does not have a throttle opener, so when your engine starts from cold, it should rev to about 1500 rpm or so, and then slowly drop to 800 rpm within about 5 minutes or so, as the engine heats up. The 16v engine uses the MAF to indicate vacuum to the computer. If there is a vacuum leak before the MAF (so that it is not seeing all the air coming into the engine) the idle will be lower. This can also happen if the screen in the MAF is dirty. This can be cleaned specifically with a MAF cleaner, like CRC brand.
But you may also need to calibrate the idle switch in the throttle position sensor. But see if there is a vacuum leak before the MAF, or if cleaning the MAF helps your issue.
There is an idle speed solenoid on your car as well. This photo here shows you it’s location, and if you pinch the vacuum hose (where it says ISC test) your idle should drop, if the ISC is working properly. You can take the ISC off the car to check it (note you will lose some coolant as one of the hoses is a coolant hose). If you shake it, it shouldn’t rattle. If it does, it’s damaged. If you want to bench test the ISC, you can only give it 12v for about a second, and then let it rest for 10 seconds before trying again. There is a plunger and spring inside of it, and that plunger is meant to vibrate about 20x a second.
View attachment 107815
Wow I love this picture ..
Actually I've been looking for a guide to testing all possible vacuum leaks.
I have a bit of trouble to find my way throug fixkick though.
Would you have a "how to" list to test all possible vacuum leaks?
 

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Normally vacuum leaks will cause the idle on a warmed up engine to be higher than it should be. The basic test is to pinch each vacuum hose with a pliers, so you are blocking off the air that is traveling along that circuit. With the exception of the idle speed solenoid and MAF (as shown in the photo), you should not have any change in idle with any of the vacuum hoses pinched. A change in idle could mean a bad connection, hole in the hose, faulty gasket, etc, etc.
 

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USA (CAMI) 1997 Suzuki Sidekick JX 4 Door, G16B, 4 spd. Auto, rear ABS, Power (hahaha!) Steering, AC
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I use Dr. Bronner's Peppermint, diluted just enough to spray, anywhere that's safe to spray liquids (no electrical connections or hot surfaces etc.)

edit; to deter mice and some other diminutive sappers... not for leak tests.
 
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