Suzuki Forums banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have an 2 door, 1994 Geo Tracker LSI 4x4, with auto transmission and auto locking hubs, and need more info on towing it. I searched for a thread for my specific questions and didn't find ALL the answers a need. I have read enough to understand that I will likely need to replace the hubs with manual ones. No problem! And, with manual hubs, it in my clear understanding that I would then tow it in PARK. But, here's my problem: There seems to four positions on the transfer case shifter knob. Those position indicators on the knob are 2WD Hi, 4WD Hi, neutral and 4WD Lo. But, this transfer case feels as though it really only has three positions. It seems that I really only have 2WD Hi, 4WD Hi and 4WD Lo. This transfer case doesn't seem to really have a neutral. I'm sure that I am just a bit ignorant about this. When I put the transfer case knob in, what appears to be "neutral" (where I can move it from side to side), I believe that it is in 4WD HI. Then, if I move the stick as far aft as it will go, I only assume that it is in 2WD Hi. But, I don't really know for sure. Here are my questions: (1) What, exactly is going on, when I shift through the various positions in the transfer case? (2) Will it be sufficient for me to just replace the auto hubs? (3) Will it necessary for me to also get a different transfer case? If the answer to the later two questions are in the affirmative, I would replace both, as I need to be able to tow this tracker 4 flat. And, this car is in exceptionally good condition. So, I want use this one, if I can. It is worth spending a little more money on, to make it what I need. I have considered that, my only alternative would be to purchase a trailer to tow it on, so that none of the wheels touch to road. If somebody has information on this that is too lengthy to post, please call me at 281-704-3451. Many thanks, in advance.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,548 Posts
Neutral doesn't really feel like a 'position' with the transfer case lever. To see if you are in neutral, put it in neutral (in between 4L and 4H) and try to drive. Nope, you shouldn't be able to go anywhere. All transfer cases are the same on all Trackicks, so there is no need to replace your transfer case (but, as you appear to be a newb about this, you may want to have your mechanic check - and replace - your transfer case oil if you have never done so.)
The transfer case is simple, 2H is the bottom selection, then there is no neutral when you slide it up one notch to 4H. The neutral occurs between 4H and 4L, and does not necessarily feel like neutral on a manual tranny. But the simplest test is to put it into what you consider neutral, and then see if you can get the car to move. If it is in neutral, it won't.
Regarding towing, are you saying you want to tow with all 4 wheels down? It is not recommended to do this with auto hubs, but I imagine you can remove the auto hub from the wheel, and if you have the sleeve that surrounds the hubs, you can cover them in some way to protect the innards from dirt, etc. Then you have the key at ACC, put the tranny in park, put the transfer case in neutral. You shouldn't drive faster than 50 mph, and should stop every 200 miles to start the engine - leaving it in park - and revving the engine a bit to circulate the oil in the transfer case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You are correct. I am knew to this. I have had another 4WD truck, but have not had any 4WD that I wanted to tow. As I said, I know that I cannot tow this Tracker flat, with automatic hubs. And yes, I do want to tow this Tracker flat. I also said that I will replace the hubs, with manual hubs, if it will help. But, the transfer case is that which is offering the confusion to me at the moment. It does not matter which position I put transfer case stick into, when I put the auto transmission in "D," I can still drive away. As far as stick positioning is concerned, when I move it forward, from the farthest aft position, it goes into, what appears to me, 4D Hi/neutral. So, it appears that 4W Hi and neutral are the same. I'm not saying that it is the same. I'm only saying that it appears to be the same. Having just recently, acquired this Tracker, I plan to have al of the fluid replaced, ASAP. Since the transfer case doesn't really seems to have a neutral, perhaps, it just needs new fluid. I doubt that the previous only did anything other than drive it. I knew when I bought this car that I was going to have to put more money into it. I do not have an aversion to that. But, I do want to get it right. Many thanks for your reply.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,548 Posts
The transfer case must have neutral somewhere. Again, it is not really a position, but is the 'space' between 4H and 4L. If you have the lever just resting in between these two positions, you can drive?
As you cannot tow with the Trackick flat with 4 wheels down, with auto hubs, you have the choice to either remove them while you are towing, or replace them. The stock hubs are Aisins, which are difficult to find but often can be found in cars that are being parted out, etc. Otherwise, there are aftermarket makes, which are good, but, IMHO, not as good as the Aisins.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
From the 4W Hi position, I can pull the level towards the driver side and then push forward in to 4W Lo. Conversely, if it is in 4W Lo, I can pull the lever aft, one position, and it will be in 4W Hi again. Then, one more position aft and it is in 2W Hi. I'm sure there is something here that I just cannot get my head around. Or, this transfer case just isn't working correctly. I will take it to a mechanic, who should be able to tell me what's going on here, as soon as I find one in the central Alabama area. I don't believe I would want to be always removing and reinstalling the auto hubs. So, I WILL opt the replace them with manual hubs. I wonder if there are any mechanics in Alabama, who are following this, to whom I can have this tracker accessed by. Your time and effort is very much appreciated. I would like to continue this discussion here, if you don't mind. To answer your question: When I put the TC lever in what appears to be neutral and then put the transmission in drive, yes, I can drive away. Or, if I put it in reverse, I can back up. One of two things, the operator (me) is doing something wrong or, there is something wrong with this TC.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,548 Posts
Stop pulling. When your car is in 4L, the minute you move the lever slightly backward from that position (like an inch), you are in neutral. It is not really a 'position' - it is just a space between two positions. If you sit in your car, start the car, put the car in 4L (hubs unlocked), put the car in drive, foot off the brake, you will inch forward. Now do the same thing with the lever just slightly 'aft' of 4L, and you should go nowhere. You must hit neutral somewhere in between 4L and 4H. I think you are looking for a definite 'position' when there is none.
Regarding your hubs, I suppose if you are going to tow the car often, and don't have a dolly or similar, it's best to get manual hubs. Frankly, I prefer them, as you are always in control of whether or not they are locked - the autos can be 'interesting'. If that is the case, and you are mildly handy, if you can find a junked Trackick in a junkyard, you can get the hubs fairly cheaply. Personally, I prefer the stock (Aisin) hubs to aftermarket ones, but that's just me.
My recommendation is to think of questions that you might have about the car, and then search the forum in order to familiarize yourself with the car. Most of these issues that you have can be remedied by yourself, without a mechanic, with just the slightest bit of reading.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I believe that, when you say "move" and I say "pull," the proper action is taking place. I tried "moving" the lever from 4L back about an inch and, when I do this, the lever automatically moves itself to the right. At this point, it si 4H. It seems to have a spring in it that forces the lever to the right at this point. I am at work right now and didn't drive the tracker in today. But, when I get back home, I will follow your instructions and see if, maybe, I have been doing it all wrong. I hope that is the case. I will take better notes this time and post any new finding. Thank you for your time and patience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,530 Posts
I have flat tow'd three TracKicks. The first came to me set up as a "towd." The other two I set up. So.. I know a bit about this subject. I have always seen the factory recommendations for towing in the Owner's manual, please look and read them. I can explain the "why" of each point.

-- As Bex says, the transfer case neutral is between the 4L and 4H. Park it on flat ground and but it in park. Move the lever to the different positions and try and roll the rig. If it rolls while in park you have found neutral. Be aware that shifting of "stuff" in the towd has been known to move the lever... putting it in 4L or 4H. Bad things happen there. I use a self centering tow bar so I normally connect the tow bar, then put the transfer case in neutral and push the towd back until at least one tow bar arm locks.

-- Manual hubs: Auto hubs lock when the input (from the CV joints) is turned on direction for several turns, they are only locked in that direction and unlock if the direction of rotation changes. Some say that if flat towing, rolling backwards can cause the hubs to lock.... I do not think so. While moving my engine-less Sport around I did it with the transfer case in neutral. I noticed the front drive line rotates with the rear drive line any time the transfer case is in 4H to 4L... this includes neutral. So if you flat tow with auto hubs, the hubs will lock (and maybe unlock) as you make turns and the rear drive line is "powering" the front drive line. If both hubs lock at the same time, and you make a turn on a non-slippery surface you'll get drive line wind up. Drive line wind up, regardless if caused by towing or by driving in 4x4 on dry roads can cause major damage. It isn't hard to swap the hubs, but if they haven't ever been removed, you might want to use an impact to remove them.

-- 200 mile "limit": There is a recommendation to start the car ever 200 miles, is from how the transfer case lubes itself. (Splash lubrication) The input side of the transfer case provides the lube for the upper section of the transfer case. While in neutral, this lubrication doesn't happen. Note that the OEM bearings are fairly high quality and have been known to take a lot of abuse before failure. So remember this when people tell you they "do not do that and never had a problem." But how strict is the 200 miles? --- Just do it at each gas stop.

I have more to say on base plates and towd lighting hook-ups.

As a '94 Geo, it should be a 2 door correct?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Bex. I finally found neutral. But, it isn't where the lever knob says it is supposed to be. I actually have to put the TC in 4W Lo first, and then move it back a notch, in order to find neutral. Once I finally got the TC in neutral, I put it in DRIVE and it wouldn't move, and in reverse and it wouldn't move. So, now all I need to do is find a couple of manual hubs. I'm with you on staying in control and always being able to know if the hubs are locked or not. Now, I'll start a search for the hubs. Why are the Aisin hubs better than, say, Warn hubs, or, any other hubs? Is it ONLY because they are less expensive?

m000035, I should never have an aversion to doing what the manual says about towing. Even though I can do most all of my own repairs, for me, it would be pointless to create work for myself, by doing some damage, just because I didn't follow the instructions. Beside that, if it is going to fail, because I didn't follow the instructions, it would probably fail on the road somewhere . . . somewhere, where it isn't convenient to make repairs.

Thanks to both of you. Now, I can get on with the fun of making this Tracker a good little towable road/off-road vehicle.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,548 Posts
Glad you finally found it. But curious, where does your lever say that it will be? My lever is just as you described - 4L at the uppermost position, and then neutral just a bit closer to me than that position.
Regarding the manual hubs, actually Aisins are normally more expensive than most of the Warns, Superwinch, etc. The Aisins are totally serviceable, and have no plastic parts inside - they are used on Toyotas, Isuzus, etc. Many of the aftermarket hubs are considered not as strong, and have plastic parts inside that can break, etc. If you do a google search on Aisin vs Warn Superwinch, etc. you will get plenty of information (and opinions) about this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My lever says that N is on the right side. So, if I move the lever forward, from 2H to 4H, the next position I see that I should expect is N. But, I have to move the lever to the left side and move it forward, so that it goes into 4L. At this point, I move the lever back a little bit and it will go into N. Had they put the "N" of the left side of the knob, I may have found it on my own. I was looking for N in the wrong place.

I have just spend my entire lunch break (one hour) looking for the rubber boot that goes arond the TC shift lever. Mine is worn out, split in two pieces and in need of replacement. But, I did not find any site where I might purchase one. Got any ideas about that?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,548 Posts
Ah, your knob is the same as mine. I can see where you might find the location of the N on the knob perhaps confusing, but it is just put on the right side of the vertical line between 4H and 4L as all the letters (4H, 4L, etc) are on the right side of the knob. The placement of the letters is just graphics. I think it is the line that indicates the positions that is more important. Anyway, you now know where it is......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,530 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,530 Posts
Odd what you see in your own posts... I was wrong.. that was for the transmission shifter boot.

Here is a link for part numbers:
https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/suzuki/part?catalog=US&model_code=SE416A33&group=68

23 29346-60A20 BOOT, LEVER NO.2 1
23 29346-60A01 BOOT, LEVER NO.2 1
23 29346-56B00 BOOT, LEVER NO.2 0

They have the first ($21) and the last ($41) on the Suzuki site... but say they do not fit your car,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, I discovered that pretty quickly. But, it got me to searching for the correct one, which I ordered yesterday. Thanks for your interest and help.

Now, I have started trying to find somebody put a lift kit on this Tracker. I am going to lift it, put bigger rims and tires on it, new bumper with a winch and towbar, and a few other things. So far, I have not found any shop interested. I may need to go out of town for this.

I found a couple of manual Aisin hubs from a Samarai. The owner doesn't know if they will fit my Tracker or not, and neither do I. Do you know?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
339 Posts
You'll know when the transfer case is in neutral because the 4WD light on the dash will be out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That is true, if those little lights are not burnt out. Anyway, this issue has been resolved. But thanks, nonetheless.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top