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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all!
FNG to this site and just bought a none running tracker and need some assistance.

Vehicle:
1993 USA Geo Tracker 4x4, 5spd manual
Appears to be a 1.6L 8V engine, fuel injected, not the original

symptoms:
-Engine cranks over
-no spark
-no fuel
-NO CEL!

Things checked so far:
-CEL bulb good, 12V @ bulb, if I ground @ the printed circuit the bulb will light but not if I ground it @ terminal A of the ALDL.
-All fuses in the fuse block have 12V on both blades
-fuse at battery good
-cleaned all 3 grounds on the firewall under the hood
-there is a module behind the glove box(don't know what it's for) that a PO cut and twisted the yellow/blue and black/yellow wires together.
-headlights and wipers do work
-installed ECU from a known running tracker and no change
-have 12v @ half a dozen wires to the ECU, couldn't make out any #s on the plugs so don't have the exact locations.

I have a snap-on MT2500 "brick" scanner but unfortunately do not have a foreign cartridge for it.:(

PO drove it to work and it wouldn't restart.
Messed around with it and he was not aware of anything in particular they did and it restarted, ran for a little while and quit. Sat for the last year+/- and this is how I bought it.

Thanks for any help.
 

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The ALDL on these isn't the same as on a GM (except the Tracker!) you have to short two terminals in a socket (the 'monitor coupler') under the hood, details here:

Check Engine Light

However you need to get the CEL working first. Do you get any clicks when you turn on the ignition? you should here the main and fuel relays turn on and then after 3 seconds you should hear the fuel pump relay turn off again.
 

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Is the timing belt intact? Have you looked at the ground for the fuel pump behind the taillight? (I think it's the left light, slips my mind at the moment).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is the timing belt intact? Have you looked at the ground for the fuel pump behind the taillight? (I think it's the left light, slips my mind at the moment).
Distributor turns but I haven't taken the cover off yet.
Highly doubt it's the belt since the PO had it start and then die again.
PO wired the fuel pump directly to the battery via a switch on the dash to eliminate any wiring. Power wire is fused at the battery and fuse is OK.

However you need to get the CEL working first. Do you get any clicks when you turn on the ignition? you should here the main and fuel relays turn on and then after 3 seconds you should hear the fuel pump relay turn off again.
I have a hunch the root cause will be what ever is keeping the CEL light from coming on. Yes on the clicks and I swapped relays by the ECU.

Thanks guys.
This is just gonna be a off road toy and she is pretty crusty. While hauling home on a trailer the rear frame cross member and exhaust fell off.:eek:
 

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Sounds like this rig has undergone quite the hackjob.
 

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BTW, what is that module behind the glove box anyway?
The air conditioning "amplifier" is behind the glove box mounted on the air conditioner case. That what you are talking about?

x2 on the "hack job." :rolleyes:
 

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Hello all!
FNG to this site and just bought a none running tracker and need some assistance.

Vehicle:
1993 USA Geo Tracker 4x4, 5spd manual
Appears to be a 1.6L 8V engine, fuel injected, not the original

symptoms:
-Engine cranks over
-no spark
-no fuel
-NO CEL!

Things checked so far:
-CEL bulb good, 12V @ bulb, if I ground @ the printed circuit the bulb will light but not if I ground it @ terminal A of the ALDL.
-All fuses in the fuse block have 12V on both blades
-fuse at battery good
-cleaned all 3 grounds on the firewall under the hood
-there is a module behind the glove box(don't know what it's for) that a PO cut and twisted the yellow/blue and black/yellow wires together.
-headlights and wipers do work
-installed ECU from a known running tracker and no change
-have 12v @ half a dozen wires to the ECU, couldn't make out any #s on the plugs so don't have the exact locations.

I have a snap-on MT2500 "brick" scanner but unfortunately do not have a foreign cartridge for it.:(

PO drove it to work and it wouldn't restart.
Messed around with it and he was not aware of anything in particular they did and it restarted, ran for a little while and quit. Sat for the last year+/- and this is how I bought it.

Thanks for any help.
What was the number on the ECM that you removed? 33920-56B30? Does the "new" ECM you have in it have the exact same number as the old one?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The air conditioning "amplifier" is behind the glove box mounted on the air conditioner case. That what you are talking about?

x2 on the "hack job." :rolleyes:
Half the A/C components have been removed already. Must have been one heck of a slug with the A/C on.

X3 on the hack, it is a POS for sure.:)

What was the number on the ECM that you removed? 33920-56B30? Does the "new" ECM you have in it have the exact same number as the old one?
Will go check the ECMs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What was the number on the ECM that you removed? 33920-56B30? Does the "new" ECM you have in it have the exact same number as the old one?
The ECM that I removed appears to be a reman.
-Made in Canada
-#1844

The ECM a buddy pulled from a running tracker is:
-#33920-56B50
-FED M/T

Have a 3rd ECM that was in the back of the tracker is:
-#33920-56B60
-FED A/T

Have ground at the fuel tank but no power, hear a relay under hood clicking and going off after about 3 sec.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Our library system does not use Alldata or Mitchelle so I don't have access to factory wiring diagrams.

Is there a link so I can check to make sure I have power and ground to the appropriate ECM terminals?
 

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The ECM that I removed appears to be a reman.
-Made in Canada
-#1844

The ECM a buddy pulled from a running tracker is:
-#33920-56B50
-FED M/T

Have a 3rd ECM that was in the back of the tracker is:
-#33920-56B60
-FED A/T

Have ground at the fuel tank but no power, hear a relay under hood clicking and going off after about 3 sec.
The 56B50 and 56B60 ECMs are from 94-95 trackicks. So they should work in you 93, but I can't say with 100% certainty that they will.
If nothing else, take your reman ECM and have him try it in his running tracker. If it runs it, then you know the ECM is good. If it doesn't, then it means that either the ECM is bad, or the ECM isn't compatible (which would also mean the 94-95 ECMs likely aren't compatible with your 93).

The clicking relay should be the fuel pump relay, that is located under the ECM. It is normal for it to click on, then off after 3 seconds, when the key is turned on.
The pink wire at the connector behind the left tail light gets corroded a lot of times and will lose connection. Check for power there (check both the relay side and the tank side of the connector for power).
 

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The B50 and B60 will run the engine OK but you will get a Check Engine Light for having no EGR temperature sensor, the EGR will also be disabled. I also suspect the wiring at the rear of the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I can't check my ECM because the guy parted out a running tracker.
He runs a pair of Samurais off road.

Will look into the wiring at the back of the vehicle.
Can that cause a no CEL condition?
 

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I can't check my ECM because the guy parted out a running tracker.
He runs a pair of Samurais off road.

Will look into the wiring at the back of the vehicle.
Can that cause a no CEL condition?
The wiring at the back of the vehicle shouldn't affect the CEL operation.
 

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No, the fuel pump relay working indicates that the main power is switching on which means that the ECU is at least partly 'alive'. If you have power coming from the fuel pump relay then that issue will be further back down the wiring. The CEL problem is likely to be a separate issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update:
Only had about 15 minutes to look at it today.
Appears the F/P relay is not cycling. The clicking is coming from another relay.

One thing I noticed about the connectors and fuse block, they aren't numbered.:mad:
 

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The fuel pump and main relay are right next to each other - fuel pump is normally green, main is black. They are interchangeable, if you need to check the relays. That pink/black wire coming out of the fuel pump relay should have 12v on it for 3 seconds at each key on.
Regarding your check engine light, the ECU switches this light on at key on, via the purple/yellow wire coming from the green connector on the ECU, which provides the ground. The 12v to the light comes from the ig-coil fuse (black/white wire) which controls all the dash lights at key on. You probably should check these wires and connection. You need to get that CEL working.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Fixed.
Two issues.
Bad ECU that came with it.
Corroded terminal on a fuse that would drop voltage with key on. It was the power out side of the fuse so if you checked voltage at the fuse tabs it showed OK.

Wiring schematic I found was so-so. Colors were right but ECM locations didn't match 100%.

Thanks for the help.:)
 
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