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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone,

1993 Geo Tracker, 8V, 1.6L, Canada, TBI, Auto, 4WD.

I just bought a 1993 Geo Tracker 8V and it has a few issues that I have no idea what is going on and was hoping someone can point me in the right direction. When I start the tracker I actually have to give it gas to start?( hold pedal down half way to start) Pretty sure it should not start at all when you give it gas lol. When tracker is started, rpm is low and does not go higher when cold? Also when tracker is running the vehicle temp is always low and barely moves the temp gauge when driving (does have good heat though?). Drives really good once you are driving but has a very rich fuel smell coming out the exhaust.

Things that have been done so far by mechanic. Water pump, thermostat, distributor, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, valve cover gasket, new belts, new battery. (spent to much money to send back to the mechanic lol) Never did the timing belt, he said looked brand new and said something about its not an interference motor.

I checked the FPR and it had gas on vac side (waiting on this part from rock auto, not sure if problem)

I replaced the coolant temp sender/sensor figured this would help for the temp on the dash but did nothing at all lol.

Any help to push me in the right direction would be awesome.

Thank you.
 

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If you have a leaking FPR, that would definitely cause some of the symptoms you are describing. When you shut the engine off, the fuel pressure is leaking through the FPR and pushing into the intake. You are probably having to depress the pedal to get enough air to keep it from being flooded. Once you change the FPR, see how things are. You may end up needing to replace the plugs after, so don't be surprised if you do.
As far as the coolant gauge, there is another thread currently on this forum discussing temp gauge/sender issues. Refer to it and see if you can use that info to troubleshoot your issue.

Disclaimer: The above advice is based on the information given and the assumption that the FPR IS leaking fuel into the vacuum line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That is what I was thinking as well with the FPR. Never even thought about that with the plugs and the way it's running smh lol.

Perfect I will look that up thanks for the heads up on the sender issue.

Thank you for your response.
 

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Holding the pedal halfway down does not give the engine gas, but gives it additional AIR. When you start your vehicle, the throttle opener at the rear of the engine should be in the open position by default, giving additional air to start up.
 
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Aside from that, as the car is new to you, the first thing you should do is a compression test to verify the timing of the engine. You can do this yourself, easily enough. As the mechanic has already thrown a whole bunch of parts at the vehicle (whether needed or not), maybe take a deep breath, do the compression test, and post your results. Compression test is done by removing all the spark plugs (and you can check to make sure they are gapped to .028”), remove the FI fuse, have a well charged battery, and floor the gas pedal while cranking about 5 to 6 times for best compression. Post your results.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Didn't know that about the pedal thank you for that info.

The mechanic apparently did this first before putting parts on and said all numbers were in spec. I can always do this as well to double check as we all know how mechanics are these days lol. Will give it a go and post the numbers.

Thank you.
 

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Regarding the vehicle temp, get an IR thermometer and take the temp at the thermostat housing when the vehicle is warmed up. The dash gauge is only really important when that needle sits at a position that it has never been at before. My needle has been at 1/4 for years, but the IR temp at the thermostat shows that the engine is properly warmed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok sounds good I will try that. What kind of temp should I be seeing at the housing with the gun?
 

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With the engine warmed up, the temp at the thermostat housing should be around 170F.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hello Bex,

Just got around to doing the compression test. Let the tracker warm up for over an hour and at this time I checked the temp at the housing and it was just under 170f give or take a little. After it was warmed up I pulled the plugs had had a friend crank with full throttle and my readings were basically all the same give or take a little. 165psi straight across. Is this a good reading? Not sure what it should be but was in the green on my friend's tester. My plugs on the other hand I am guessing are like this because of the bad fpr. Just changed it out seems to be running a bit better.
Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Tire


Light Gauge Motor vehicle Measuring instrument Gas
 

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Temp values are spot on. And so is your compression readings. So it appears that there is no problem there. I’d check the throttle opener at the rear of the engine, to make sure that it is open by default. Basically, when you start your engine, without using the throttle pedal, it should rev to about 2000 rpm or so, and then you should hear a very definite drop of about 500 rpm, as the throttle opener closes. To find the throttle opener, you’ll see two vacuum solenoid valves at the front of the engine sitting together. One is blue for the EGR, the other is a brown one, and if you follow one of the vacuum hoses from that VSV to the rear of the engine, you’ll find the throttle opener. See if that’s working (if not, there are other things to check, as well).
You don’t advise how the engine performs once it’s warmed up - good power? What is your mpg?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Don't know as of yet, just running to get new spark plugs right now. Don't want to try run it with those plugs. Plus have to get a gap tool to check the gap, can't seem to find mine. Will take a look at what you said about the throttle opener. Thanks for the information 👍.
 

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Things seem to be reading well. Compression is good, and the big issue would be if they were not all within about 10% or so. Are you having any oil consumption issues? For no more than they cost, a new set of plugs is a good thing. The plugs look like maybe there is a little bit of oil burning, but maybe not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey mountainmanrobb,

Yeah all were identical right on 165. No oil consumption at all. I changed the oil and drove about 4000 km and it didn't burn any that I noticed on the dip stick. Going to have to drive it now with the new fpr and see how it goes I guess.
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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idk what plugs were in it, but I really like those NGK V power. I wouldn't recomend the platnum anything with this type of fuel injection system, not that its a bad one, its just not 110% spot on like the newer stuff is if that makes sence. As for temp gauge, like Bex said.... Mine 94 2dr 8v, here in Colorado on a cold day. if its below 40deg F and go and start t to "warm up" (soft top) my gauge hangs just above the cold mark. Till I go drive it a mile or 2 then it gets up to temp (ish) about 11 O' Clock. I fthe heater is on med or full go, the temp gauge drops .... nature of the unit I guess. I also went with a Denso O2 Sensor, the OE one read slow and tired.
 

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seems they all are a little different come to think of it, Cold start, turn key, starts, 1500rpm for a bit then slowly drops as it warms up, but mine does it in "steps" . Idles when warmed up (spring summer fall) around 600 ish. I did mess with the idle when I rebuilt the head a few yrs ago (thanks for the info Bex!!) 16v block/8v head ordeal.lol anywho... Sounds like a runner by compression readings!!
 

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OH! Do a valve adjustment while your at it if the mechanic didn't do it already. Just came to mind as I need to do mine here real soon after a top end rebuild a few yrs ago and a hard long weekend this past weekend on the ol 94 2dr!!.
 
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