Greetings All!
I've been lurking on this forum for a while during the last year or so of owning my Vitara, and finally decided to join after hitting some road blocks. I've searched several threads and while there is a lot of great information, it seems diagnostic info and FSM's are hard to come by these days (Acks Faq's server is down). That said, I'm hoping the all mighty Suzuki wizards can help steer me in the right direction. On to the details!
Vehicle:
1992 Suzuki Vitara. Imported from Germany to the USA by previous owner
16v 4 Door
Issue in order of events:
-Vehicle ran great for a year until all of a sudden, it started getting really low on power in the lower RPM range and gas mileage suffered.
-Thinking the issue was related to the 02 sensor (this vehicle only has one, on the manifold), I found the #4 runner cracked all the way around.
-I had the manifold welded by a shop, and installed a new 02 sensor. The problem persisted.
-At this point, I did a cold compression test and found all cylinders to be at 170 psi. On a cold engine, this seems more than sufficient
-My friend insisted the cap and rotor were bad, so he tore it off without notating the rotor position (the car has NEVER started since)
-Now the car cranks but gets no spark
-There was corrosion on the cap and rotor contacts, so I replaced these with brand new parts (still no spark, despite aligning the rotor)
-I did notice the crank pulley was wobbling at low load/rpm and found the crank bolt sheared off inside the crank snout (great).
-Since the car wouldn't start anyway, I extracted the broken bolt, Loctite 660'd a new key in place, installed a new crank timing cog/gear/ and torqued it down to 94 ft/lbs
-Following the information available on KickFix, I set the crank gear to TDC on #1 cylinder and the camshaft to TDC based on the #4 cylinder, aligned the rotor to 1PM and set the firing order per FixKick (1,3,4,2 in a counter-clockwise manner).
-Still no start
-I realized I've never seen the check engine light come on, so I tore apart the gauge cluster and found the bulb had been removed. Awesome.
-Replaced bulb, jumped diagnostic connector and received a code 42 for CKP/CPS? sensor or circuit issue.
-Removed the dome fuse to clear the code, put the fuse back in and got a code 42 again.
-Following instructions posted by @Bex, I tested for continuity at the EMS and on each wire leading into the CKP/CPS and all passed (meaning the sensor failed according to test flow)
-With all this in mind, I'd like to know if the CKP/CPS is what sends a signal for the coil to fire. If so, the issue should only be the CKP/CPS, not the coil, correct?
-My mechanic friend thinks the coil is faulty, but I'd like to be sure before dropping a large amount of money on parts that may not fix the issue. In addition, I'd have to buy an entire distributor if the ckp/cps is faulty.
The weirdest thing through all of this is that the car would start every time before the rotor cap and rotor were taken off. After that, it never started again and refuses to get spark. It seems odd that a ckp/cps sensor or coil would die at the exact same time the rotor was adjusted.
Any ideas?
I've been lurking on this forum for a while during the last year or so of owning my Vitara, and finally decided to join after hitting some road blocks. I've searched several threads and while there is a lot of great information, it seems diagnostic info and FSM's are hard to come by these days (Acks Faq's server is down). That said, I'm hoping the all mighty Suzuki wizards can help steer me in the right direction. On to the details!
Vehicle:
1992 Suzuki Vitara. Imported from Germany to the USA by previous owner
16v 4 Door
Issue in order of events:
-Vehicle ran great for a year until all of a sudden, it started getting really low on power in the lower RPM range and gas mileage suffered.
-Thinking the issue was related to the 02 sensor (this vehicle only has one, on the manifold), I found the #4 runner cracked all the way around.
-I had the manifold welded by a shop, and installed a new 02 sensor. The problem persisted.
-At this point, I did a cold compression test and found all cylinders to be at 170 psi. On a cold engine, this seems more than sufficient
-My friend insisted the cap and rotor were bad, so he tore it off without notating the rotor position (the car has NEVER started since)
-Now the car cranks but gets no spark
-There was corrosion on the cap and rotor contacts, so I replaced these with brand new parts (still no spark, despite aligning the rotor)
-I did notice the crank pulley was wobbling at low load/rpm and found the crank bolt sheared off inside the crank snout (great).
-Since the car wouldn't start anyway, I extracted the broken bolt, Loctite 660'd a new key in place, installed a new crank timing cog/gear/ and torqued it down to 94 ft/lbs
-Following the information available on KickFix, I set the crank gear to TDC on #1 cylinder and the camshaft to TDC based on the #4 cylinder, aligned the rotor to 1PM and set the firing order per FixKick (1,3,4,2 in a counter-clockwise manner).
-Still no start
-I realized I've never seen the check engine light come on, so I tore apart the gauge cluster and found the bulb had been removed. Awesome.
-Replaced bulb, jumped diagnostic connector and received a code 42 for CKP/CPS? sensor or circuit issue.
-Removed the dome fuse to clear the code, put the fuse back in and got a code 42 again.
-Following instructions posted by @Bex, I tested for continuity at the EMS and on each wire leading into the CKP/CPS and all passed (meaning the sensor failed according to test flow)
-With all this in mind, I'd like to know if the CKP/CPS is what sends a signal for the coil to fire. If so, the issue should only be the CKP/CPS, not the coil, correct?
-My mechanic friend thinks the coil is faulty, but I'd like to be sure before dropping a large amount of money on parts that may not fix the issue. In addition, I'd have to buy an entire distributor if the ckp/cps is faulty.
The weirdest thing through all of this is that the car would start every time before the rotor cap and rotor were taken off. After that, it never started again and refuses to get spark. It seems odd that a ckp/cps sensor or coil would die at the exact same time the rotor was adjusted.
Any ideas?