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Discussion Starter #1
New to this but I got a 1991 Suzuki SideKick 2 door with 4 wheel drive and auto tranny with about 82,000 original miles even passed smog here in California.
The brakes were spongy to begin with, but the fluid level was good
So I go about the brake job(pads/rotors) like other vehicles I've done
Open the top of the master cylinder or brake fill lid
Take off caliper
Take off pads
Take off rotors
Depress caliper piston for room for new pads and rotors
Put it all together and brake pedal goes all the way to the floor with no resistance at all, pumped the brakes ALOT and still no resistance.
I haven't seen any loss of fluid anywhere
Any ideas or anyone been through this on these??
Going to bleed them soon to see if that does it.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Of course it’s impossible to make any determination regarding your situation before you’ve bled the brake system, which you do from the tire furthest away from the MC, first. Depending on your set up (RWAL or LSPV) there may not be a bleeder on the rear right tire. See what the brakes are like after the bleed.
When you say the brakes were originally spongy, does that mean the the pedal would slowly sink to the floor (air or leaks in the system), or that there was too much pedal travel before the brakes would engage? Often people change the MC, but do not re-calibrate the booster pushrod. The location/measurement of the pushrod dictates the pedal position where the brakes would first start to engage.
 
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It's always possible you have damaged the non return valve in the master cylinder pressing the pistons back in. Or the pistons are stuck (umlikely)

Bleed the brakes fully first as Bex has said then diagnose if you still have issues
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome to the forum. Of course it’s impossible to make any determination regarding your situation before you’ve bled the brake system, which you do from the tire furthest away from the MC, first. Depending on your set up (RWAL or LSPV) there may not be a bleeder on the rear right tire. See what the brakes are like after the bleed.
When you say the brakes were originally spongy, does that mean the the pedal would slowly sink to the floor (air or leaks in the system), or that there was too much pedal travel before the brakes would engage? Often people change the MC, but do not re-calibrate the booster pushrod. The location/measurement of the pushrod dictates the pedal position where the brakes would first start to engage.
Yeah it took a bit for it to stop but at least it stopped before, not it's like there's nothing at all.
Gonna do the bleed and see what happens
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Okay so bled the brakes today
Driver rear bled out great
Get to passenger front and only a trickle of fluid came out then nothing at all
Disconnected brake line from caliper and fluid came out, put it back on and tried to bleed, nothing at all.
Any ideas?
I assume blockage or just need new calipers.
Also, of course, still no brakes
 

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Replace the blocked bleed nipple?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've thought about it but the calipers are old and a little rusty so I think if it comes down to it I'll just replace the whole thing.
 

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Surface rust on a cliper is no major cause for concern. As long as it's not deep pitting. Fluid should be keeping the inside clean. Blocked bleed nipples are reasonably easy to correct, remove it and clean out the internal hole, taking care not to damage the tapered surface that seals it shut.
 

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You should get fluid leaking out the caliper hole, gentle press on the pedal and hold before replacing the cleaned nippke will make sure the caliper outlet hole is clear. If that's blocked, you have bigger issues.
Common for the bleed nipples to get blocked, especially if it hasn't got a rubber dust cap
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So here's the update
Took of nipple and it's clean
Took off brake line to see if fluid would come out of the line, it did.
So, put the line back and left nipple off while pumping brakes, no fluid just sounds. So I'm assuming bad calipers? The portion of the nipple that was inside the caliper was super rusty so I think the insides must be shot.
Anybody have recommendations on callipers? I seen some acdelcos on rockauto that look decent. Or maybe different ideas on what's going on?
 

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Run a piece of wire through the nipple and hole in caliper until fluid runs... then bleed the brakes... nothing complicated with a caliper...

Fluid doe not compress, air does, replace air with fluid and pressure will move the piston, if it does not, the piston or slides are frozen..
 
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