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1990 Tracker crank no start

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5K views 62 replies 8 participants last post by  ViewSonic 
#1 ·
I have a 1990 tracker with the 5 speed manual and 4x4. The other day I was idling in my tracker and it just shut off. After getting a tow I did a lot of research on here and I keep coming to dead ends.

My issues so far are as follows:

-No fuel coming from injector yet the fuel pump is ok after testing it. Fuel is getting to the throttlebody
-Noid light test gave no pulse signal.
-Tach is not moving when cranking over the engine.
-Engine will only run off starting fluid. Tach will work when the engine is running off of starter fluid.
-ECM is repeatedly flashing code 12- flipping that hidden switch does nothing.
-TPS readings are within normal limits.
-Injector is within spec

I had new capacitors put on my ECM and im still having these issues. Should I just spend the money on a new ECU?
Any help would be appreciated thanks.
 
#2 ·
Insert the diagnostic fuse or jumper, turn the ignition on, crank the engine over and check the codes BEFORE you switch the ignition off - is it still just a 12 or are you getting a 41 or 42?

A defective noise suppressor will cause the symptoms you're describing, but the related codes are not stored as historical codes (they clear when the ignition is switched off) making them hard to see.

33552-86000 is Suzuki's part number.
 
#3 ·
When I am cranking the motor it is still flashing 12. Code 12 should be one long flash and 2 short flashes, right? It just keeps flashing it over and over. I was looking at the fusebox diagrams and ive seen a few ones that differ from each other. Some have the diagnostic fuse as the fi fuse in the same spot. Ill order a noise suppressor but I find it very odd that all of this happened without warning.
 
#4 ·
If you can see the 12 flashing on the CEL, the jumper or diagnostic fuse is in the correct place. If I recall correctly, the '89 & '90 models have "stand alone" distributors that do not need the ECU to produce a spark, so on those models the ECU only handles the fuel injection - it still needs to see the CAS (crank angle sensor) signal to be able to inject the fuel, but if that's missing you should see a 42 code.

Disconnect the battery, unplug the ECU and then verify continuity on the wiring between the injector and the ECU.

No drive to the injector without a 41 or 42 code would suggest either the ECU or the ECU to injector wiring is where the problem lies.
 
#7 ·
Well, if it were me, I would want to hang a scope on the injector output and the cam angle input, but not everyone has access to a scope, so I guess if you can get your hands on an ECU, that would be the way to go.
 
#9 ·
If the noid test gives no signal, it is possible that the injector driver in the ECU has fried (and can be replaced). Normally this will happen due to a short in the injector wiring. Before trying to find a new ECU, open your ECU up and take a look.
See post #6 here, and follow the top link in that post (bottom link won’t work)
 
#10 ·
If the noid test gives no signal, it is possible that the injector driver in the ECU has fried (and can be replaced). Normally this will happen due to a short in the injector wiring. Before trying to find a new ECU, open your ECU up and take a look.
See post #6 here, and follow the top link in that post (bottom link won’t work)
Thanks for the advice. I will have to try testing this with a multimeter when I get some free time. Visually the transistors dont look fried but looks can be deceiving.
If the transistors are shot, is there any good place to get some replacement transistors?
 
#11 ·
Open up your ECU, and first see if the original Rubycon capacitors are still there. Some people have advised that they still get the code 12, even though one or two of the caps have failed.
Regarding the injector drivers, you are looking for Q101, etc.
Passive circuit component Circuit component Electronic instrument Hardware programmer Electronic engineering
 
#12 ·
Open up your ECU, and first see if the original Rubycon capacitors are still there. Some people have advised that they still get the code 12, even though one or two of the caps have failed.
Regarding the injector drivers, you are looking for Q101, etc.
View attachment 110482
i noticed that my board is labelled differently from yours though i doubt it would matter. visually, they look fine, no rubycon caps on this board anymore.
Circuit component Electronic component Hardware programmer Electronic engineering Computer hardware
 
#14 ·
I don’t know much about this either, other than the fact that I have had what potentially may be a similar situation. Start reading here at post #21…..regarding the tests I was instructed to do
 
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#15 ·
Wow just read through all of that. Must have been a huge headache for you :confused:. Think I might just redo injector wiring as a precautionary measure and grab a new computer. I plan on eventually redoing my current ecm but I dont think I have the skillset for it at the moment.
 
#16 ·
Finding a 1990 ECU might be a bit of an adventure. If you are unsure how to check to see if the injector drivers are good or not, most computer geeks will be able to do this….they’ll be able to check your caps and board, as well.
And going back to Fordem’s advice in post #2, when you are cranking, you’re advising you get a code 12. The way Fordem’s test works is that when you stop cranking, you leave the key in the on position, and then check to see if the code changes to 41 or 42. Did you leave the key on??
 
#17 ·
Yep, i left the key on and it was still code 12. I did find an ecu and man, they are expensive. I did order it and it claims it's remanned with a 5 year warranty. I called my local electronics repair shop and I've never heard someone so eager to tell me that they don't do that kind of "low level work" anymore (that is what he actually said too).

When i had opened the board it was also apparent that acid corrosion had taken its toll. It was cleaned up but connections on the board were getting bridged, so i think it would take a lot of love to save that ecm
 
#18 ·
To be honest, I don't see any "local electronics repair shops" as being willing to take on motor vehicle ECU repair work, it's more of a specialist field.

Apart from the basic electrical/electronics training, which you would expect any electronics tech to have, diagnosis of a fault requires an "in depth understanding" of what the "module" you're working on does (which is information that no vehicle manufacturer makes available) - you'll need to know, and be able to provide, the various inputs the module requires, and what outputs to expect (my instructor referred to these as the "gosinta" & comesouta"), and these are going to vary from one vehicle model to the next, and from one market to the next - as an example my Africa market J20a engined, 5 speed second gen is VERY different to a US market J20a engined, 5 speed second gen - mine has no O2 sensor, no MAP sensor, no knock sensor, and no EGR, all of which are there on a US market model (the knock sensor is year dependent), what my car does have that the US ones don't, is a 10 turn potentiometer known as "CO adjuster", along with a very different EPROM program.

Short of building a simulator for each version of each ECU, you really need to have the vehicle on hand to test the ECU, and few people are going to take that on as a job and offer a warranty on the work done.

Given the revenue that can be generated and the risk of litigation and/or reputational damage involved, the answer is going to be "No, we don't work on those".
 
#19 ·
To be honest, I don't see any "local electronics repair shops" as being willing to take on motor vehicle ECU repair work, it's more of a specialist field.

Apart from the basic electrical/electronics training, which you would expect any electronics tech to have, diagnosis of a fault requires an "in depth understanding" of what the "module" you're working on does (which is information that no vehicle manufacturer makes available) - you'll need to know, and be able to provide, the various inputs the module requires, and what outputs to expect (my instructor referred to these as the "gosinta" & comesouta"), and these are going to vary from one vehicle model to the next, and from one market to the next - as an example my Africa market J20a engined, 5 speed second gen is VERY different to a US market J20a engined, 5 speed second gen - mine has no O2 sensor, no MAP sensor, no knock sensor, and no EGR, all of which are there on a US market model (the knock sensor is year dependent), what my car does have that the US ones don't, is a 10 turn potentiometer known as "CO adjuster", along with a very different EPROM program.

Short of building a simulator for each version of each ECU, you really need to have the vehicle on hand to test the ECU, and few people are going to take that on as a job and offer a warranty on the work done.

Given the revenue that can be generated and the risk of litigation and/or reputational damage involved, the answer is going to be "No, we don't work on those".
That's a good point. I am aware that there's differing ecm's based on the country that its in which makes it even more of a wild goose chase with finding the correct computer. And yea, back to the repair shop, I wasn't really expecting them to be able to work on it. Kind of a shot in the dark ya know. Just wish these little computers weren't so hard to find, and I had no idea on the scarcity of parts with the '89s and '90s prior to buying one. You live and learn lol.
 
#20 ·
There are a lot of rebuilt ECUs on EBAY. That's where I found mine. Most are re-built -- so it appears that a lot of people think it's worthwhile. Finding the exact one for your rig shouldn't be too difficult. Just make sure it comes with a warranty of some sort.
 
#25 ·
On the red injector wire, between the injector and the ECU, just after where it goes through the connector shared by the TPS.
 
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#28 ·
Did you read through the thread before posting your question?

Below is the very first post in the discussion.

I have a 1990 tracker with the 5 speed manual and 4x4. The other day I was idling in my tracker and it just shut off. After getting a tow I did a lot of research on here and I keep coming to dead ends.

My issues so far are as follows:
-No fuel coming from injector yet the fuel pump is ok after testing it. Fuel is getting to the throttlebody
-Noid light test gave no pulse signal.
-Tach is not moving when cranking over the engine.
-Engine will only run off starting fluid. Tach will work when the engine is running off of starter fluid.
-ECM is repeatedly flashing code 12- flipping that hidden switch does nothing.
-TPS readings are within normal limits.
-Injector is within spec

I had new capacitors put on my ECM and im still having these issues. Should I just spend the money on a new ECU?
Any help would be appreciated thanks.
 
#32 ·
Sadly, most of the guys on ebay that do a repair and ‘core return’ won’t work on the 89/90 ECU’s, AFAIK.
 
#34 ·
Because it takes more than a soldering iron to DIAGNOSE and repair an ECU.

Diagnosis is the first step into any sort of repair, and to diagnose the fault requires an in depth understanding of what the device does, you need a way to generate the inputs that the device requires, and a way to test the outputs that the device produces, you need to observe the outputs for all possible combinations of inputs, to make sure that you get the outputs that are expected, and also to ensure that you don't get any undesired outputs.

What inputs - cam & crank position sensors, coolant & intake air temperature sensors, MAF & MAP sensors, throttle position sensor, electrical load sensors, power steering load sensor, air conditioning load sensor, vehicle speed sensor, B1S1 & B1S2 O2 sensors, 5th gear switch, CO adjusting resistor.

What outputs - injector(s) drive, ignitor or COP coil drive, EGR actuator drive, IAC actuator drive, EVAP purge valve drive, throttle position sensor data

I've limited that list to only what can be expect on an 89~98 Vitara/Sidekick (including the Sport), and I have probably missed a few - the list will get longer (a lot longer) if you include more modern vehicles. Folks who do this as a business are going to have constructed some sort of "simulator", and may have several simulators, one per ECU that they service, because connections don't necessarily interchange.

For the "eagle eyed" amongst you, there are probably some inputs & outputs you didn't expect, like that CO adjusting resistor in the input list, it's not fitted in all markets, vehicles with the CO resistor won't have the O2 sensor, and will have different programming - there is no "closed loop" mode, the 5th gear switch is primarily used to control opening & closing of the EGR and the throttle position sensor data in the output list - that goes to the TCU for the four speed automatic. Not all ECUs will use all inputs or have all outputs
 
#35 ·
They will still have the resistance on the later "modern" closed loop control but its used with the A /F sensor to provide a known offset for the sensor being used. This is one of the reasons why you cannot just use any sensor that fits the hole

The earlier ecm are in my opinion more fun to dive into in terms of how they operate, more analogue than digital and some of the things they did to solve problems around emissions and get suitable solutions.........those designers had some smarts

Downside, nobody wants to know, they are old, uncommon (now) and time consuming to repair and that's if you can find components.
 
#37 ·
My tracker’s in-tank fuel pump had ingested the old “plastic” fuel strainer/screen and quit working. If you use jumper wires from batt to fuel pump wires will it run? I’m to old to understand the computer s—t. New fuel pump and fuel strainer/screen and all has worked since the repair. Not sure I’ve helped but good luck. I too had previously replaced the “fried” ECM.
 
#39 ·
Where are you checking for voltage? Check both at the TPS, as well as at the ECU connector. The TPS voltage at the ECU connector is meant to be only about 1v, with the key on or the engine running, according to my FSM. Your gray wire should connect on the yellow connector of the ECU.
So, even with the new ECU, you are not getting the pulse with the noid test? Have you tried just running new wires from the ECU to the injector?
 
#42 ·
Based on the manual I'm looking at, the two additional wires in the TPS harness connector are for the injector, so, no, the engine won't run with that disconnected.

I have no "hands on" experience with the 8v TBI systems, we didn't get them, our 8v models came with a carburettor, but the basic principles of fuel injection system will still hold.

Rectangle Font Parallel Slope Diagram

This diagram is taken from a Suzuki FSM, I don't guarantee it'll match your Tracker, but it should be similar, I don't know if you have the tools to back probe connectors, and I don't know if the Suzuki connectors allow the use of back probes, not all manufacturers use connectors that do - #5 is your throttle position sensor.

"Back probing" is the technique of inserting a test meter probe, usually a very thin probe, into the back or "wire side" of a connector so that you can make measurements whilst the connector is connected to the device. In the absence of back probes some people use needles or tee pins to puncture the insulation on the wires, if you do this you need to make sure the needles/pins cannot short to one another or to any adjacent metal, and you need to seal the punctures afterwards using something like liquid electrical tape. If moisture gets into those punctures it will corrode the copper inside the insulation, and cause problems down the road that will be very difficult to locate.

Meter on 20 VDC scale (assuming a digital meter, but any meter that can measure 12VDC can be used - my preference for this is an old style analog meter, I'll explain why in a minute)
Black meter probe to GND, which is a grey wire with yellow stripe.
Red meter probe first to TPS In, which is a grey wire with red stripe, you should be seeing 5V or close to that.
Red meter probe next to TPS Out, which is a grey wire with no stripe, the voltage here should be between 0V and 5V and should vary smoothly as the throttle is opened & closed, with digital meters, the readings tend to jump around, with analog meters the smooth swing of the needle is easier to see, if you can see the needle flickering, jumping either to 5V or to 0v, it means the wiper in the TPS is loosing contact with the traces inside, and the TPS is defective.
 
#46 ·
You advise in post #36 that your noid test still fails….correct? No signal? Have you tried running new wires from the ECU to the injector??
 
#48 · (Edited)
Quick thread update. Didnt get around to wiring the injector just yet, been very busy. What I did do was the fuel filter and man, it was bad. Completely gunked up with what looked like sludge. Once I had buttoned everything up I cranked over the motor and heard a strange noise. Turns out with the proper fuel pressure, the bottom injector o ring couldnt handle it and just started weeping gas. I'll give an update when I get some new o rings for the thing. My only worry is that my injector could possibly be clogged.

Oh and bex, I got that injector to pulse, it was very odd. I decided to unplug and plug everything in again and cranked it. (unhooked batt of course) I could hear and feel the injector ticking and it was spraying no fuel. This was before I had replaced the filter.
 
#49 ·
There was a recent post around here somewhere, where someone did an ‘old school’ cleaning of his injector. I suspect that if your fuel filter was so gunked up, the 10 micron screen on the injector is probably the same. I‘ll see if I can find the post I’m thinking about……
 
#50 ·
Post #32 here:
 
#52 ·
Hope it helps…..it’s certainly worth a try, rather than sending the injector out for professional cleaning.
 
#53 · (Edited)
Update for you. ran new wires and.....nothing. No pulse or anything. Genuinely out of ideas here.
One thing i did notice about mine is that it would not run without the MAP plugged in which was odd. I wonder if the sensor died.

Either that or I got another bum ecm. Can't open it up because warrenty seals
One more thing: do the 1990s have a noise suppressor?
 
#54 ·
Do the noid test at the ECU connector itself to see if the ECU is pulsing. If there was a wiring problem with the injector, then plugging in a new ECU and cranking would have fried the driver in the new ECU as well.
I don’t have the FSM for the 1990, but take a look in your engine at the ignition coil. If there is a brown/white wire coming from the coil, follow that….it should lead to both the igniter and the noise suppressor.
 
#55 ·
Alright thanks for the tip. The original wiring seemed ok after doing a continuity test but I still replaced it as a precautionary measure. Ill have to pick up another NOID kit as i had rented it and gave it back. I just need to backprobe that ecu connector, correct?
 
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