Another thing, shouldnt it run without the tps plugged in? Theres also a good chance I measured it incorrectly as I couldnt find much on how to get the voltage measurment off of it. I have a 4 wire TPS and the harness plug looks like it has wires going to the idle air control switch.
1990 Tracker crank no start
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Based on the manual I'm looking at, the two additional wires in the TPS harness connector are for the injector, so, no, the engine won't run with that disconnected.
I have no "hands on" experience with the 8v TBI systems, we didn't get them, our 8v models came with a carburettor, but the basic principles of fuel injection system will still hold.
![Rectangle Font Parallel Slope Diagram]()
This diagram is taken from a Suzuki FSM, I don't guarantee it'll match your Tracker, but it should be similar, I don't know if you have the tools to back probe connectors, and I don't know if the Suzuki connectors allow the use of back probes, not all manufacturers use connectors that do - #5 is your throttle position sensor.
"Back probing" is the technique of inserting a test meter probe, usually a very thin probe, into the back or "wire side" of a connector so that you can make measurements whilst the connector is connected to the device. In the absence of back probes some people use needles or tee pins to puncture the insulation on the wires, if you do this you need to make sure the needles/pins cannot short to one another or to any adjacent metal, and you need to seal the punctures afterwards using something like liquid electrical tape. If moisture gets into those punctures it will corrode the copper inside the insulation, and cause problems down the road that will be very difficult to locate.
Meter on 20 VDC scale (assuming a digital meter, but any meter that can measure 12VDC can be used - my preference for this is an old style analog meter, I'll explain why in a minute)
Black meter probe to GND, which is a grey wire with yellow stripe.
Red meter probe first to TPS In, which is a grey wire with red stripe, you should be seeing 5V or close to that.
Red meter probe next to TPS Out, which is a grey wire with no stripe, the voltage here should be between 0V and 5V and should vary smoothly as the throttle is opened & closed, with digital meters, the readings tend to jump around, with analog meters the smooth swing of the needle is easier to see, if you can see the needle flickering, jumping either to 5V or to 0v, it means the wiper in the TPS is loosing contact with the traces inside, and the TPS is defective.
I have no "hands on" experience with the 8v TBI systems, we didn't get them, our 8v models came with a carburettor, but the basic principles of fuel injection system will still hold.
This diagram is taken from a Suzuki FSM, I don't guarantee it'll match your Tracker, but it should be similar, I don't know if you have the tools to back probe connectors, and I don't know if the Suzuki connectors allow the use of back probes, not all manufacturers use connectors that do - #5 is your throttle position sensor.
"Back probing" is the technique of inserting a test meter probe, usually a very thin probe, into the back or "wire side" of a connector so that you can make measurements whilst the connector is connected to the device. In the absence of back probes some people use needles or tee pins to puncture the insulation on the wires, if you do this you need to make sure the needles/pins cannot short to one another or to any adjacent metal, and you need to seal the punctures afterwards using something like liquid electrical tape. If moisture gets into those punctures it will corrode the copper inside the insulation, and cause problems down the road that will be very difficult to locate.
Meter on 20 VDC scale (assuming a digital meter, but any meter that can measure 12VDC can be used - my preference for this is an old style analog meter, I'll explain why in a minute)
Black meter probe to GND, which is a grey wire with yellow stripe.
Red meter probe first to TPS In, which is a grey wire with red stripe, you should be seeing 5V or close to that.
Red meter probe next to TPS Out, which is a grey wire with no stripe, the voltage here should be between 0V and 5V and should vary smoothly as the throttle is opened & closed, with digital meters, the readings tend to jump around, with analog meters the smooth swing of the needle is easier to see, if you can see the needle flickering, jumping either to 5V or to 0v, it means the wiper in the TPS is loosing contact with the traces inside, and the TPS is defective.
Alright, tested the tps and its fine. Kinda at a loss here on where to go next. Looks like my injector is also wired separatly from the tps also. On the left in my picture is the tps and on the right is the injector.
Post #32 here:
www.suzuki-forums.com
Carb conversion
Hey everyone. More or less new to suzuki trackers. My son and i bought and old beater tracker. 1994 5sp manual in canada with at 1.6L 16v. We just put a new fuel pump in it because that one that came with it was burned right out. The truck runs like crap. Starts and idles not to bad when...
www.suzuki-forums.com
I really appreciate it, thank you so muchPost #32 here:
Carb conversion
Hey everyone. More or less new to suzuki trackers. My son and i bought and old beater tracker. 1994 5sp manual in canada with at 1.6L 16v. We just put a new fuel pump in it because that one that came with it was burned right out. The truck runs like crap. Starts and idles not to bad when...
41 - 60 of 63 Posts
