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1990 Tracker crank no start

2899 Views 62 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  ViewSonic
I have a 1990 tracker with the 5 speed manual and 4x4. The other day I was idling in my tracker and it just shut off. After getting a tow I did a lot of research on here and I keep coming to dead ends.

My issues so far are as follows:

-No fuel coming from injector yet the fuel pump is ok after testing it. Fuel is getting to the throttlebody
-Noid light test gave no pulse signal.
-Tach is not moving when cranking over the engine.
-Engine will only run off starting fluid. Tach will work when the engine is running off of starter fluid.
-ECM is repeatedly flashing code 12- flipping that hidden switch does nothing.
-TPS readings are within normal limits.
-Injector is within spec

I had new capacitors put on my ECM and im still having these issues. Should I just spend the money on a new ECU?
Any help would be appreciated thanks.
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If the noid test gives no signal, it is possible that the injector driver in the ECU has fried (and can be replaced). Normally this will happen due to a short in the injector wiring. Before trying to find a new ECU, open your ECU up and take a look.
See post #6 here, and follow the top link in that post (bottom link won’t work)
Open up your ECU, and first see if the original Rubycon capacitors are still there. Some people have advised that they still get the code 12, even though one or two of the caps have failed.
Regarding the injector drivers, you are looking for Q101, etc.
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I don’t know much about this either, other than the fact that I have had what potentially may be a similar situation. Start reading here at post #21…..regarding the tests I was instructed to do
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Finding a 1990 ECU might be a bit of an adventure. If you are unsure how to check to see if the injector drivers are good or not, most computer geeks will be able to do this….they’ll be able to check your caps and board, as well.
And going back to Fordem’s advice in post #2, when you are cranking, you’re advising you get a code 12. The way Fordem’s test works is that when you stop cranking, you leave the key in the on position, and then check to see if the code changes to 41 or 42. Did you leave the key on??
To be honest, I don't see any "local electronics repair shops" as being willing to take on motor vehicle ECU repair work, it's more of a specialist field.
Perhaps a moot point now, but the computer ‘geek’ in my local town was able to replace my caps, test and replace the injector drivers, clean the traces, etc., in my ECU, as well as make a recommendation to run an inline inline fuse in the injector wiring circuit so that, if the injector wires caused more problems, the fuse would blow well before any damage to the ECU. Then again, he was building computers, and not just some guy in an electronics shop.
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On the red injector wire, between the injector and the ECU, just after where it goes through the connector shared by the TPS.
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Sadly, most of the guys on ebay that do a repair and ‘core return’ won’t work on the 89/90 ECU’s, AFAIK.
Where are you checking for voltage? Check both at the TPS, as well as at the ECU connector. The TPS voltage at the ECU connector is meant to be only about 1v, with the key on or the engine running, according to my FSM. Your gray wire should connect on the yellow connector of the ECU.
So, even with the new ECU, you are not getting the pulse with the noid test? Have you tried just running new wires from the ECU to the injector?
You advise in post #36 that your noid test still fails….correct? No signal? Have you tried running new wires from the ECU to the injector??
There was a recent post around here somewhere, where someone did an ‘old school’ cleaning of his injector. I suspect that if your fuel filter was so gunked up, the 10 micron screen on the injector is probably the same. I‘ll see if I can find the post I’m thinking about……
Post #32 here:
Hope it helps…’s certainly worth a try, rather than sending the injector out for professional cleaning.
Do the noid test at the ECU connector itself to see if the ECU is pulsing. If there was a wiring problem with the injector, then plugging in a new ECU and cranking would have fried the driver in the new ECU as well.
I don’t have the FSM for the 1990, but take a look in your engine at the ignition coil. If there is a brown/white wire coming from the coil, follow that….it should lead to both the igniter and the noise suppressor.
I’ve read through this again….on #45, you say that the injector is working, but then in #53, you advise no pulse??? I’m confused……
Thanks for the update, and glad you finally got this sorted.
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