[ViewSonic]

I have a 1990 tracker with the 5 speed manual and 4x4. The other day I was idling in my tracker and it just shut off. After getting a tow I did a lot of research on here and I keep coming to dead ends.

My issues so far are as follows:

-No fuel coming from injector yet the fuel pump is ok after testing it. Fuel is getting to the throttlebody
-Noid light test gave no pulse signal.
-Tach is not moving when cranking over the engine.
-Engine will only run off starting fluid. Tach will work when the engine is running off of starter fluid.
-ECM is repeatedly flashing code 12- flipping that hidden switch does nothing.
-TPS readings are within normal limits.
-Injector is within spec

I had new capacitors put on my ECM and im still having these issues. Should I just spend the money on a new ECU?
Any help would be appreciated thanks.

 

[fordem]

Insert the diagnostic fuse or jumper, turn the ignition on, crank the engine over and check the codes BEFORE you switch the ignition off - is it still just a 12 or are you getting a 41 or 42?

A defective noise suppressor will cause the symptoms you're describing, but the related codes are not stored as historical codes (they clear when the ignition is switched off) making them hard to see.

33552-86000 is Suzuki's part number.

 

[ViewSonic]

Insert the diagnostic fuse or jumper, turn the ignition on, crank the engine over and check the codes BEFORE you switch the ignition off - is it still just a 12 or are you getting a 41 or 42?

A defective noise suppressor will cause the symptoms you're describing, but the related codes are not stored as historical codes (they clear when the ignition is switched off) making them hard to see.

33552-86000 is Suzuki's part number.

When I am cranking the motor it is still flashing 12. Code 12 should be one long flash and 2 short flashes, right? It just keeps flashing it over and over. I was looking at the fusebox diagrams and ive seen a few ones that differ from each other. Some have the diagnostic fuse as the fi fuse in the same spot. Ill order a noise suppressor but I find it very odd that all of this happened without warning.

 

[fordem]

If you can see the 12 flashing on the CEL, the jumper or diagnostic fuse is in the correct place. If I recall correctly, the '89 & '90 models have "stand alone" distributors that do not need the ECU to produce a spark, so on those models the ECU only handles the fuel injection - it still needs to see the CAS (crank angle sensor) signal to be able to inject the fuel, but if that's missing you should see a 42 code.

Disconnect the battery, unplug the ECU and then verify continuity on the wiring between the injector and the ECU.

No drive to the injector without a 41 or 42 code would suggest either the ECU or the ECU to injector wiring is where the problem lies.

 

[ViewSonic]

If you can see the 12 flashing on the CEL, the jumper or diagnostic fuse is in the correct place. If I recall correctly, the '89 & '90 models have "stand alone" distributors that do not need the ECU to produce a spark, so on those models the ECU only handles the fuel injection - it still needs to see the CAS (crank angle sensor) signal to be able to inject the fuel, but if that's missing you should see a 42 code.

Disconnect the battery, unplug the ECU and then verify continuity on the wiring between the injector and the ECU.

No drive to the injector without a 41 or 42 code would suggest either the ECU or the ECU to injector wiring is where the problem lies.

alright, ill give that a shot. thanks

 

[ViewSonic]

If you can see the 12 flashing on the CEL, the jumper or diagnostic fuse is in the correct place. If I recall correctly, the '89 & '90 models have "stand alone" distributors that do not need the ECU to produce a spark, so on those models the ECU only handles the fuel injection - it still needs to see the CAS (crank angle sensor) signal to be able to inject the fuel, but if that's missing you should see a 42 code.

Disconnect the battery, unplug the ECU and then verify continuity on the wiring between the injector and the ECU.

No drive to the injector without a 41 or 42 code would suggest either the ECU or the ECU to injector wiring is where the problem lies.

Alright I did some testing. It wont throw any other code than 12 and I do have continuity on both injector wires. Is it time to shell out the cash for a new ecu?

 

[fordem]

Well, if it were me, I would want to hang a scope on the injector output and the cam angle input, but not everyone has access to a scope, so I guess if you can get your hands on an ECU, that would be the way to go.

 

[ViewSonic]

Well, if it were me, I would want to hang a scope on the injector output and the cam angle input, but not everyone has access to a scope, so I guess if you can get your hands on an ECU, that would be the way to go.

yea unfortunatly i dont have a scope so ill have to take my chances with a new ecu

 

[Bex]

If the noid test gives no signal, it is possible that the injector driver in the ECU has fried (and can be replaced). Normally this will happen due to a short in the injector wiring. Before trying to find a new ECU, open your ECU up and take a look.
See post #6 here, and follow the top link in that post (bottom link won’t work)

No noid When Loaded

Good Day, I`m working on My son`s 92 8v, auto, 4x4, 2dr, tracker. I`ve read the kick fix pages (very helpfull). I have noid light when connected only to the plug, No noid light when the injector is connected as well. Is it safe to Assume I`ve lost 1 injector driver on the ECM? I`ve tested...

www.suzuki-forums.com

 

[ViewSonic]

If the noid test gives no signal, it is possible that the injector driver in the ECU has fried (and can be replaced). Normally this will happen due to a short in the injector wiring. Before trying to find a new ECU, open your ECU up and take a look.
See post #6 here, and follow the top link in that post (bottom link won’t work)

No noid When Loaded

Good Day, I`m working on My son`s 92 8v, auto, 4x4, 2dr, tracker. I`ve read the kick fix pages (very helpfull). I have noid light when connected only to the plug, No noid light when the injector is connected as well. Is it safe to Assume I`ve lost 1 injector driver on the ECM? I`ve tested...

www.suzuki-forums.com

Thanks for the advice. I will have to try testing this with a multimeter when I get some free time. Visually the transistors dont look fried but looks can be deceiving.
If the transistors are shot, is there any good place to get some replacement transistors?

 

[Bex]

Open up your ECU, and first see if the original Rubycon capacitors are still there. Some people have advised that they still get the code 12, even though one or two of the caps have failed.
Regarding the injector drivers, you are looking for Q101, etc.

 

[ViewSonic]

Open up your ECU, and first see if the original Rubycon capacitors are still there. Some people have advised that they still get the code 12, even though one or two of the caps have failed.
Regarding the injector drivers, you are looking for Q101, etc.
View attachment 110482

i noticed that my board is labelled differently from yours though i doubt it would matter. visually, they look fine, no rubycon caps on this board anymore.

 

[ViewSonic]

Open up your ECU, and first see if the original Rubycon capacitors are still there. Some people have advised that they still get the code 12, even though one or two of the caps have failed.
Regarding the injector drivers, you are looking for Q101, etc.
View attachment 110482

Ok, I just probed the transistors with a multimeter after looking up a tutorial (new to this). I used a multimeter with a "diode mode" and probed each one. Every transistor gave me a value except D112 in your picture (just gave me OL). That one is labelled as D15 in my board. One side seems to be dead. Another thing, reversing the leads on Q100 was the only way I could get a reading on one of the sides. Crap multimeter?

 

[Bex]

I don’t know much about this either, other than the fact that I have had what potentially may be a similar situation. Start reading here at post #21…..regarding the tests I was instructed to do

electrical short??

diode test. stick to diodes first ,transistor are lot trickier. set meter to x10. see D105 in the center of the ECU board , ITS huge, and has a big fat band on it, in white over black body. that band is the negative side ( or cathod) test it with your meter, should read low one why and and...

www.suzuki-forums.com

 

[ViewSonic]

I don’t know much about this either, other than the fact that I have had what potentially may be a similar situation. Start reading here at post #21…..regarding the tests I was instructed to do

electrical short??

diode test. stick to diodes first ,transistor are lot trickier. set meter to x10. see D105 in the center of the ECU board , ITS huge, and has a big fat band on it, in white over black body. that band is the negative side ( or cathod) test it with your meter, should read low one why and and...

www.suzuki-forums.com

Wow just read through all of that. Must have been a huge headache for you . Think I might just redo injector wiring as a precautionary measure and grab a new computer. I plan on eventually redoing my current ecm but I dont think I have the skillset for it at the moment.

 

[Bex]

Finding a 1990 ECU might be a bit of an adventure. If you are unsure how to check to see if the injector drivers are good or not, most computer geeks will be able to do this….they’ll be able to check your caps and board, as well.
And going back to Fordem’s advice in post #2, when you are cranking, you’re advising you get a code 12. The way Fordem’s test works is that when you stop cranking, you leave the key in the on position, and then check to see if the code changes to 41 or 42. Did you leave the key on??

 

[ViewSonic]

Finding a 1990 ECU might be a bit of an adventure. If you are unsure how to check to see if the injector drivers are good or not, most computer geeks will be able to do this….they’ll be able to check your caps and board, as well.
And going back to Fordem’s advice in post #2, when you are cranking, you’re advising you get a code 12. The way Fordem’s test works is that when you stop cranking, you leave the key in the on position, and then check to see if the code changes to 41 or 42. Did you leave the key on??

Yep, i left the key on and it was still code 12. I did find an ecu and man, they are expensive. I did order it and it claims it's remanned with a 5 year warranty. I called my local electronics repair shop and I've never heard someone so eager to tell me that they don't do that kind of "low level work" anymore (that is what he actually said too).

When i had opened the board it was also apparent that acid corrosion had taken its toll. It was cleaned up but connections on the board were getting bridged, so i think it would take a lot of love to save that ecm

 

[fordem]

To be honest, I don't see any "local electronics repair shops" as being willing to take on motor vehicle ECU repair work, it's more of a specialist field.

Apart from the basic electrical/electronics training, which you would expect any electronics tech to have, diagnosis of a fault requires an "in depth understanding" of what the "module" you're working on does (which is information that no vehicle manufacturer makes available) - you'll need to know, and be able to provide, the various inputs the module requires, and what outputs to expect (my instructor referred to these as the "gosinta" & comesouta"), and these are going to vary from one vehicle model to the next, and from one market to the next - as an example my Africa market J20a engined, 5 speed second gen is VERY different to a US market J20a engined, 5 speed second gen - mine has no O2 sensor, no MAP sensor, no knock sensor, and no EGR, all of which are there on a US market model (the knock sensor is year dependent), what my car does have that the US ones don't, is a 10 turn potentiometer known as "CO adjuster", along with a very different EPROM program.

Short of building a simulator for each version of each ECU, you really need to have the vehicle on hand to test the ECU, and few people are going to take that on as a job and offer a warranty on the work done.

Given the revenue that can be generated and the risk of litigation and/or reputational damage involved, the answer is going to be "No, we don't work on those".

 

[ViewSonic]

To be honest, I don't see any "local electronics repair shops" as being willing to take on motor vehicle ECU repair work, it's more of a specialist field.

Apart from the basic electrical/electronics training, which you would expect any electronics tech to have, diagnosis of a fault requires an "in depth understanding" of what the "module" you're working on does (which is information that no vehicle manufacturer makes available) - you'll need to know, and be able to provide, the various inputs the module requires, and what outputs to expect (my instructor referred to these as the "gosinta" & comesouta"), and these are going to vary from one vehicle model to the next, and from one market to the next - as an example my Africa market J20a engined, 5 speed second gen is VERY different to a US market J20a engined, 5 speed second gen - mine has no O2 sensor, no MAP sensor, no knock sensor, and no EGR, all of which are there on a US market model (the knock sensor is year dependent), what my car does have that the US ones don't, is a 10 turn potentiometer known as "CO adjuster", along with a very different EPROM program.

Short of building a simulator for each version of each ECU, you really need to have the vehicle on hand to test the ECU, and few people are going to take that on as a job and offer a warranty on the work done.

Given the revenue that can be generated and the risk of litigation and/or reputational damage involved, the answer is going to be "No, we don't work on those".

That's a good point. I am aware that there's differing ecm's based on the country that its in which makes it even more of a wild goose chase with finding the correct computer. And yea, back to the repair shop, I wasn't really expecting them to be able to work on it. Kind of a shot in the dark ya know. Just wish these little computers weren't so hard to find, and I had no idea on the scarcity of parts with the '89s and '90s prior to buying one. You live and learn lol.

 

[xkaes]

There are a lot of rebuilt ECUs on EBAY. That's where I found mine. Most are re-built -- so it appears that a lot of people think it's worthwhile. Finding the exact one for your rig shouldn't be too difficult. Just make sure it comes with a warranty of some sort.