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Discussion Starter #1
89 and 90 Sidekicks are hard to source parts for. I need the all BRASS Air Intake Sensor located below the throttle body on the Intake Manifold. There are two in that general location. One has a green plastic connector and the AIC is the all Brass unit with a 6d-8 inch wire to the connecting loom. When removed....the temp sensor inside stem is damaged and much of it is not there.

Where can I find one that will either fit direct....or possible to find one that will simply work if using my connector plugs?

Any help is greatly appeciated

Karl
 

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They green plastic one is the coolant temp sensor. I assume you’re looking for #14 in this diagram:
Part #13650-61A00
 

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Discussion Starter #3
As I stated in my post....I know the green one is the coolant temp sensor. It is the Brass sensor next to it...the AIC...or Air Intake Sensor. So, where do I find one of those?

KP
 

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13650-61A00 appears to be no longer available anywhere, however 13650-61A01 seems to have succeeded it but I can't guarantee that's correct, I'll let you research that ;).
 

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Permanently out of stock in Amayama, as well. Maybe you can find a replacement from an 89/90 in a junkyard? But I must ask, why do you think your’s is not working properly?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When removed...the brass stem that senses the air flow is damaged. it has for some reason deteriorated. Instead of being round (approx. 1" stem) it is corroded away where about half of it exists. Does it work? I don't know. I am still trying to get the 1.6 to idle (currently 1200 RPM) and trying to eliminate any possible causes of the high idle. That sensor determines the air flow Temp....and sends that information to the computer. Maybe it doesn't play a big part in idle control....but I don't know that for sure.

Any response is welcome.
 

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Perhaps it would be better for you to give some details about what your car’s idle actually does - what it does from cold start, in detail. Normally a high, warm idle comes from a vacuum leak somewhere, although it can be from other issues. Try clamping each of your vacuum hoses, one by one when the engine is warmed up, to see if any of them bring down the idle. None of them should, in your car.
Also you should confirm that your engine reaches proper running temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Car cold starts at around 1500-1700 RPM. Warms up in about 4/5 minutes and idle returns to 1100 -1200 RPM. Driving it warm the idle continues to settle at 1100-1200 RPM. I have pinched the hoses and none of them have any impact on the idle. The unit at the top left of the firewall with a hose going into the TB does have an impact on the idle....hose removed, the engine stalls. That is the only hose that has any effect at idle. Disconnecting the Air intake sensor has zero effect on the idle. As I mentioned, the unit is damaged...but I see that it can be tested by removal with the sensor in heated water and checked for resistance at the plug end. All of the hoses are new. I have checked for air leaks at the intake manifold, throttle body, EGR and just about anything else. I was hoping to rule out the Electrical Sensors on the intake manifold as a cause, and moving to either vacuum leaks or perhaps an issue with the TB itself. It runs great....passes California Smog (which ain't easy) but doesn't want to idle at around 850-900 RPM where it should.
 

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I am confused, The AIC does not live in a water jacket, If it is close to the ETS (engine temp sensor) then it would be the temp sensor for the computer... maybe a picture of what you are referring to..
 

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Your engine has a throttle opener at the rear of the engine, diagonally down from the distributor. When the ECU comes onboard, it closes the throttle opener, so within 5 seconds or so after cold start, you should hear a very definite drop of about 500 rpm, when the throttle opener closes. Do you? If it remains open, or is not working, it will raise your idle with the vacuum leak, as its default position is open.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Couple of answers here. For aquanot20: If you read my post, the AIC is NEXT to the Engine Temp Sensor. What I was referring to is as follows: The AIC can also be tested for function and continuity by using the "heated water test." Even though it is NOT the Green ETS, It can be tested for function by using the following process: Remove it from the intake Manifold....(knowing full well it measures only Air Temperature....not water) and place the sensor end in hot water. The next step is check continuity and sensitivity by using a VU meter on the Electrical End of the AIC. When the water warms, there should be a reading on the meter. All that does is indicate that the Sensor Stem is doing what it is supposed to do. It is no more than a simple test to see if the Sensor is actually conducting information to the ECU.

For Bex....It does not reduce the idle anywhere near 5 seconds.....more like a steady decrease (slowly i.e. 100 RPM drop) over 3 to 4 minutes until warm at about the 5 minute mark. Clearly, based on your advice...the throttle opener is not doing what it is supposed to do. What service advise can you offer on repairing that? Something is stopping the cold start function, causing high idle for too many minutes. I see that there is supposed to be a hose to the Dashpot...and it is there. I also am reading that there should be another hose that is actually plugged....very near the Dash Pot. I do not see that hose....only one hose to the DP.

Thanks to both of you for any advice that you can offer
 

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Your engine has a throttle opener at the rear of the engine, diagonally down from the distributor. When the ECU comes onboard, it closes the throttle opener, so within 5 seconds or so after cold start, you should hear a very definite drop of about 500 rpm, when the throttle opener closes. Do you? If it remains open, or is not working, it will raise your idle with the vacuum leak, as its default position is open.
Your engine has a throttle opener at the rear of the engine, diagonally down from the distributor. When the ECU comes onboard, it closes the throttle opener, so within 5 seconds or so after cold start, you should hear a very definite drop of about 500 rpm, when the throttle opener closes. Do you? If it remains open, or is not working, it will raise your idle with the vacuum leak, as its default position is open.
 

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I don't know if this will be helpful, but here's a photo from a '94 Tracker 8v intake manifold. I have others if necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
A bit more....Re-checking the vacuum lines today....I sprayed some Carb Cleaner around the Intake Manifold gasket. I noticed a slight rise in the engine at idle, which probably means that I need to change out the Gasket. Not sure if this is common in the 1.6, but that gasket is a key player with vacuum issues.

Another question I have is regarding the vacuum hose connection from the Vacuum Advance unit on the Distributor to the Intake Manifold. I see diagrams with the hose coming from the VA unit and then splitting off to the plastic valves near the front of the engine near the radiator. Where does the MAIN lead for the VA connect on the Manifold? A simple explanation would be most helpful, along with any of my thinking on the Intake Manifold Gasket replacement.

Thanks again

Karl
 

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I would probably deal with that throttle opener, first, if you are advising that you do not hear that rpm drop within 5-10 seconds. If you look at the front of your car, you will see two vacuum solenoid valves sitting together - one of them goes to the EGR circuit, and the other goes to the rear of the engine, to the throttle opener. The issue can be a leak in that hose, an electrical problem with the VSV, a damaged throttle opener valve, etc. I’d pull the vacuum hose off of the VSV, and apply vacuum to that hose, running back to the throttle opener, and see if your rpm changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Will do this check and focus on the throttle opener. And....where is the "home" for the hose going to the vacuum advance? In other words...where on the intake manifold does that hose connect?

Thanks again.

Karl
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Answered my own question above. The diagrams I have make it difficult to be sure about the VSV hose routing. The brown valve....closest to the radiator shows the bottom connector going to the throttle opener. the upper connection goes to the letter P on the EGR modulator. The inside VSV shows the bottom hose connector going to the EGR valve. The upper hose connector is going to the "T" connecting the Vacuum Advance to the TB (and back to the VSV). Do I have this hose connection pathway correct In terms of "plumbing" the two VSV valves?

Any help appreciated.

ps: Regarding the throttle opener. I hope I have this correct. It appears to be the Diaphram attached to the TB....with the purpose of keeping the engine RPM UP while down shifting. True? Essentially it looks like a "damper" to control rapid changing RPM when the engine decelerates. I vacuum tested the unit and it is fine. It holds vacuum. It is not actuating the throttle shaft as the shaft is set at the lowest allowable setting. Maybe I am looking at the wrong part. The pressure sensor on the firewall does the most to affect idle. If the hose is unplugged, the engine nearly dies. If squeezed a little to restrict flow....the idle actually moves down to the correct RPM level. Thoughts?

Karl
 

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You have two VSV’s in the front of the engine - the blue one is for the EGR circuit. The brown one is for the throttle opener. These circuits are not connected in any way. It’s the top hose of the blue one that goes to the P on the EGR modulator, and the hose from the Q side of the EGR modulator goes to the EGR valve. The hoses from the brown VSV go to the throttle opener at the rear of the engine, and the other hose goes to the intake manifold.
 
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