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I seem to remember something about plugging a fuse into the fuse box, on the '89 model, to get trouble codes. Check your fuse box cover, maybe there is information on it.
Yes, the 89 Suzuki would have an empty fuse area, all the way on the right side of the fuse panel under the dash, for a fuse to be inserted in order to get any codes. Trackers didn’t have this, IIRC, but Suzukis did.
 

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I would also advise NOT to start fiddling with idle screws, as one of them is factory set and its setting should not be changed. Maybe, rather than directing this thread to a ‘loose’ timing belt, the poster should advise exactly how the car runs - what it does from cold start, the rpm at cold start, what the idle does as the car warms up (if it actually does?) any bogging or power issues, etc. I would also agree that he should dump that Haynes manual - it is filled with misinformation and attempts to cover many models in one publication, which is problematic. The link Fordem gave above is helpful, or you can also look at the mechanical section here: https://acksfaq.com/HTML/pdfs/96-FSM-v1-6A.pdf
While this is for the 96 Tracker, the timing belt section will be the same for your car - it will show diagrams of the locking plate for the tensioner, the direction in which it moves, instructions on turning the crankshaft 2 full clockwise rotations to pick up any slack before tightening the tensioner, etc., etc.
 

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Sounds to me like the tensioner is mot installed correctly. On the back side n of the tensioner’pulley’ there is a metal plate with a tang on it that has to be fitted into a hole in the pulley. This causes the pulley to rotate on an eccentric when the adjustment is moved. Not aligning this could prevent the pulley from tightening the belt.
89 has fully mechanical distributor not computer controlled, so in my opinion set the timing for best performance with out pinging and leave it.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Installing the tensioner couldn't be easier. That was not the problem. And...setting the Distributor to maintain 8 degrees BTC is also the best way to go. We were able to re-adjust the Centric bolt to create adequate tension. Now...timing is not a problem and belt tension is correct. That leaves me with the problem that so many of these 89/90 Sidekicks have...high idle. The engine wants to idle at 1200 RPM, when it should be at 800 RPM. All of the hoses are new and checked. New EGR valve. Any suggestions here would be welcome. I realize there are several sensors that affect idle. We have repacked the thermostat and the temp sensor unit to dash. There is the AIC valve, which we haven't touched.
 

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What exactly does your engine do from cold start? Cold start idle, and what the idle does as your engine warms up? While this can often be from vacuum leaks, it can also be that the coolant temp sensor is advising the ECU that your engine isn’t warmed up, etc. Give some detail as to what your car does. With the 8v, it should rev to about 2000 rpm or so at cold start, and within 5-10 seconds, you should hear a definite drop of about 500 rpm, as the throttle opener closes. Then the engine slowly drops to warm idle over the next 5 minutes. Do you hear that definite drop?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Yes the engine does rev to around 2000 rpm at start up...but takes a long time to drop (long time being around 4 minutes) where the idle moves to 1500....and then progressively to around 1200 where it stays. It takes far too long to go through the cold to hot process. I did fined one damaged IAT valve (wire connector) and valve on the manifold. Yet to replace that. What does the IAT valve/sensor actually do?
 

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Yes the engine does rev to around 2000 rpm at start up...but takes a long time to drop (long time being around 4 minutes) where the idle moves to 1500....and then progressively to around 1200 where it stays. It takes far too long to go through the cold to hot process. I did fined one damaged IAT valve (wire connector) and valve on the manifold. Yet to replace that. What does the IAT valve/sensor actually do?
IAT is Intake Air Temp sensor, detects intake air temp, if thats not working it will default to a very low temp and keep idle up high. Can you post a pic of what you are describing as I am only guessing because you have said IAT, it could just as equally be something else
 

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If you look at the front of your engine, you’ll see two vacuum solenoid valves sitting together - one is brown and one is blue. The brown one goes to the throttle opener, which is at the rear of the engine, diagonally down from the distributor. Basically, the default position of the throttle opener is open - when the ECU comes on line it provides vacuum to the brown VSV, which closes the throttle opener. The ECU comes on line in a matter of seconds, so if it takes about 4 minutes for your idle to drop (and this is an immediate drop - not a slow dropping of rpm), then you should check your throttle opener, confirm that it will hold vacuum, etc.
Regarding your IAT, normally on the passenger side of the engine, on the 8v, you‘ll see a round green sensor (the coolant temp sensor) and a similar round black one (the IAT).
 
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