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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys/gals. first post, been lurking here decided to just join...

Got a little '88 5 speed for a farm beater to take some of the work load off of the atv. Picked it up for $400 bucks so I can stand to spend a little on it and still come out ahead. It's been rolled over on the side so the body is boogered up, but since it'll be a farm beater for the remainder of its days that doesn't bother me at all, poor thing will probably never get out of 3rd gear again...


anyhow, on to my issues. I'm a very good mechanic so don't worry about getting techy with me, I can handle it :D just never touched a suzuki before... I will be getting a book as soon as I can, just hoping to get some answers here so I can possibly make the little booger fire tomorrow.

1.
the timing is way off, I see some orange rtv around the distributor shaft so someone has had that off. This thing has a 2 piece distributor shaft, one coming off of the cam, then the distributor mounts to that at a 90 degree angle. Is there any way someone could have gotten either of those turned wrong so it's firing on the wrong cylinder? I know some cars have keyed shafts so they can't get put in wrong, just not sure about this one. If this isn't the case, I would imagine that they have replaced the timing belt and gotten it wrong :mad:

2.
Carburetor, I'm not getting squat out of the accelorator pump so the carburetor needs some love. Would I be better off just throwing the old one away and getting a weber? I put a weber on a little mitsubishi mighty max last year and it really made it scream but I was using waaayyy too much fuel. I'm not looking for more power or speed here, but rather something to run around the farm and not drink a ton of gas. So, to those with experience, should I just rebuild what I have (assuming it's rebuildable) or go on and order the weber? again, I'm looking for economy not power.

3.
I have read on here that if the mechanical fuel pump is bad it'll put gas in my oil... There is certainly some gas in my oil. When I removed the fuel line from the carburetor it really shot a big squirt of fuel while turning the engine over, so it seems to be functioning. In your opinion do you think the pump is bad or that there is just that much fuel in the oil from the previous owner trying to start it over and over with the bad timing not letting it fire... Second part, replace with OEM or put a cheap electric on?

because of the bad accelerator pump and gas in the oil I'm not expecting it to run, nor would I allow it to until the oil is changed, I just want to hear it run for a few seconds on ether or carb cleaner so I will have the motivation to continue. The old fella I got it from will gladly take the car back should I deem it not worth repairing so I'm not worried about being ripped off on it.

Thanks in advance folks, I hope this is in the right forum, this is a pretty large forum here. Any other advice would be appreciated as I'm new to these little trucks/engines.
 

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When I got mine the accelerator pump wouldn't work because the tube it squirts out of was stopped up I'd pull the top off the carb and clean it up, they're not to bad to work on.

The timing isn't to tricky if you have the fsm you can download it here somewhere.

I've only had mine a few weeks now but it seams like it will be a fun little vehicle to own and work on.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the links, I'll check those out. The fella I got the truck from has a manual he said I can come borrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
good call on the links, bummer for me the ones I need aren't working :(

some of them are broken links, but the factory service manual is in a zip file and unusable for anyone running any computer other than windows. Thanks though, I'll keep trying to get the FSM to download.

I was able to find one answer! You apparently can get the distributor completely f-ed up if you don't remove it with marking location of the rotor and housing. I hope that is all that is wrong with my little truck, seems like someone has the timing almost 180 degrees out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I finally got the zip file to download... man microsoft really bugs me :mad:

awesome that I now have the factory service manual, that's a truly great resource and I appreciate you directing me to it!

still wondering about the carburetor (rebuild vs. replace)
and
fuel pump (replace? electric or OEM)

I'd hate to put 20 dollars worth of oil/filter into her and then have to do it again immediately.
 

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I was able to find one answer! You apparently can get the distributor completely f-ed up if you don't remove it with marking location of the rotor and housing. I hope that is all that is wrong with my little truck, seems like someone has the timing almost 180 degrees out.
I would start by setting #1 cylinder at TDC on compression stroke then set then dis at the #1 position. Could it be that someone has the plug wires crossed?

Mike
 

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still wondering about the carburetor (rebuild vs. replace)
and
fuel pump (replace? electric or OEM)

I'd hate to put 20 dollars worth of oil/filter into her and then have to do it again immediately.
You rebuild a carb when its worn out unless the shafts and linkages are sloppy you just need to take it apart and give it a good cleaning.

As for the fuel pump I've never seen one dump fuel Into the oil not saying it cant happen. I suppose the way to check it would be to pull it of and work it by hand to see if it leaks.

Mike
 

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I traded for a Samuri early this spring and when I got it the carb was total junk... So I had a Rochester dual jet on hand. I used and adaptor from a toyota land cruiser that looks like a mini tunnel ram. At first i did all this with no mods done to the intake, just using its stock ports. It worked but it had a massive stumble off idle. Later I took it all back apart and cut the ports out in the intake where the carb meets. It still has an ever so slight stumble when cold but otherwise she's a screamer. Plus the plugs Show that it's jetted right. Being new to this sight, I felt that i needed to share.


I posted this bout a few days ago. Btw I'm running 31 15.50 ags on the back and 31 10.50 mud tires on the front with little power loss. Still got 4th gear in High range on the street
 

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Discussion Starter #11
figured out what was wrong. The "mount" or "bracket" for the distributor had broken, part of it got caught in the distributor gear :mad: distributor will not stay in time, it keeps jumping a couple cylinders off...

I found a distributor gear for sale for pretty cheap on the net, the cam gear looks usable at least for my purposes anyhow. Someone JB welded the distributor "mount" back together, my guess is the car has not ran since they tried this "fix"... I can't stand when these monkeys do things like that, aluminum is not that hard to weld as long as you aren't trying to weld it "right"...

anyhow, does anyone know what this "mount" is called? it's the part that bolts to the head and the distributor bolts to it. More importantly does anyone know where I can get one of these? I'll weld it as a last resort, but I'd rather just get another one. If someone has a junker laying around and would sell me this mount and the dizzy gear let me know please!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
forgot to mention, I found one in the junk yard today... Minus the engine of course, bummer for me, but someone else might find it interesting. It is the "plus" model, don't really know what that means, but it has some pretty nifty front seats in it and a functional rear seat. More importantly though, it has a hard top with a fold back sunroof! Pretty cool, if I weren't using mine for a farm vehicle I'd have snatched it up! It's located in western north carolina if anyone is interested.
 

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forgot to mention, I found one in the junk yard today... Minus the engine of course, bummer for me, but someone else might find it interesting. It is the "plus" model, don't really know what that means, but it has some pretty nifty front seats in it and a functional rear seat. More importantly though, it has a hard top with a fold back sunroof! Pretty cool, if I weren't using mine for a farm vehicle I'd have snatched it up! It's located in western north carolina if anyone is interested.
Where is that junkyard?

Mike
 

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anyhow, does anyone know what this "mount" is called? it's the part that bolts to the head and the distributor bolts to it. More importantly does anyone know where I can get one of these? I'll weld it as a last resort, but I'd rather just get another one. If someone has a junker laying around and would sell me this mount and the dizzy gear let me know please!
Distributor housing, is what it is called. You can probably find a used one off a samurai that someone is parting out. Post a "wanted" ad, on the various zuk forums.
 

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As for the fuel pump I've never seen one dump fuel Into the oil not saying it cant happen. I suppose the way to check it would be to pull it of and work it by hand to see if it leaks.

Mike
The fuel pump can definitely let gas leak into the engine block. There is a diaphragm in the fuel pump that seals the engine oil off from the gas, and vice versa. When the diaphragm ruptures, oil will generally start leaking out of the tube on the bottom of the fuel pump (when this happens, replace the fuel pump immediately and change the engine oil and filter).
The fuel pump will still function, when the diaphragm ruptures, so checking the pump to make sure it is working will not tell you if the diaphragm is good.
 

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OK I learned something new, sounds like a poor design but them's the breaks. Those fuel pumps are around $50 so if you want to test it for leaking could you not pull it loose from the block leave the lines hooked up pump it up manually and see what happens, might save a trip to town if nothing else.:)

Mike
 

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OK I learned something new, sounds like a poor design but them's the breaks. Those fuel pumps are around $50 so if you want to test it for leaking could you not pull it loose from the block leave the lines hooked up pump it up manually and see what happens, might save a trip to town if nothing else.:)

Mike
Easier than that to check. As I said, if there is oil leaking/dripping out of the pipe on the bottom of the pump, the pump needs replaced. Or if the engine oil has gas in it, it needs replaced.
IDK that I have ever heard of a samurai pump stop working mechanically....the diaphragm always ruptures, and that is why they need replaced.
 

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Easier than that to check. As I said, if there is oil leaking/dripping out of the pipe on the bottom of the pump, the pump needs replaced. Or if the engine oil has gas in it, it needs replaced.
IDK that I have ever heard of a samurai pump stop working mechanically....the diaphragm always ruptures, and that is why they need replaced.
I should have wrote see if it leaks gas into the engine side at the cam follower when you apply pressure to it. There are more ways than one that gas can get into an engine block, heck the PO may have poured a half a gallon down the carb trying to start it. I was just looking for a quick way for him to check it.

Mike
 

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I just put a Weber carb on my (until then) stock '86 Samurai two weekends ago. My old carb worked fine, but ran really rich until it warmed up. Once warmed up, it was perfect. It is sitting on the floor of my shop. I could very easily put it in a box for you for $40 and you pay the shipping.
 
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