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Discussion Starter #1
Did a lot of searching on the forums, downloaded the FSM from Ack's site and purchased a non running Suzuki Samurai with a good body for next to nothing. It's a Tin Top too!

About my Samurai:
1.3L Original Motor
31.5" tires (I got them as a consolation prize because it didn't run, and the original set was dilapidated, so it needs lifting!)
Tin Top 1988.5

Two things that I have questions about that are right in front of me:

It hasn't ran in AT LEAST 6 years, the last license plate tag on it was 2002, so I am guessing it has been longer than six years. The fluids are still full actually, and nothing is leaking, transmission, oil, and coolant are all solid, it has spark, looks to be timed correctly, put a camera inside the gas tank and it doesn't have rust. I am sure the carb/filter/pump needs work/replacing. Aside from that, the motor is not locked up, the key cranks it, electrical all works. The compression is in the 130's (all 4) dry, but I can't do a warm test, or dare to do anymore testing until fluids are changed (because it doesn't start yet). I looked in the FSM, and it says I can use any oil from 20W-50 to 5W-30. I am leaning towards 10W-40 to boost compression, what's your guys take on this?

Secondly, it does not have a grille on it. Since it is an 88.5 is my grille the new style with just the "S" or the full Suzuki nameplate on it?
 

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After sitting that long there is no doubt that you will need to clean out the fuel system. Comp sounds good, especially if they are all pretty consistent. Normally a comp test would be done warm. Not being locked up it sounds like it wont take a lot to have her running.

The fuel tank should have a drain plug making it easier. It sounds like quite a score. Somewhere here there is a thread indicating what lift options are good for what size tires, I couldn't find it but I'm guessing an SPOA lift might be adequate for 31.5 but dont quote me on that. Make sure and post pics, pics are good, we love pics. Some more knowledgeable than I may have the lift options you need to fit the tires you have.

Congrats and welcome!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When it makes it out of the garage, I will take some pictures. I have been documenting everything and I will show it off hopefully!

I am still debating on the oil though, leaning just towards 5W-30 if you think that cold compression is a good number.
 

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Oil threads go deep and wide. I'm a fan of Rotella in almost everything, I also like Mobile1 for my bikes and Lexus. I ride a Vmax and I know several other Vmax guys use Rotella in their bikes to and swear by it. It's decent stuff and pretty cheap, everything from lawn mowers on up unless it calls for synthetic.

If you ask 10 people about oil your likely to get at least 12 different responses. Others can explain it down to the molecular science, I'm not that involved, I research what others are using, and why so I have some basic rational, maybe even a little trial and error. With rotella it seems to start easily in the cold and oil psi stays decent even when I have pushed the mileage. Thats what I would use in that vehicle, if it were mine.
 

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I am confused.

Apparently you know enough to check compression and all these other technical aspects of how a engine runs but you are asking about oil viscosity.

"I am leaning towards 10W-40 to boost compression, what's your guys take on this?"

It doesn't matter. Oil is to lubricate the parts and as long as the parts are protected from metal on metal wear. Ambient temperature determines what viscosity oil to use. Which is most commonly 10w30. and oil doesn't "boost compression"

Grill I have no idea. mine says "Suzuki"
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for the answer, I was just curious if adding more weight to the oil would change how the motor operated.

I was able to get it to start last night, had to pour gas in the carb, so now I get to check on the fuel system/carb wish me luck.
 
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