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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a 1987 samurai with the 1.3. Will idle smooth as can be but when I go to throttle up it dies unless I let off... I'm new to the samurai however if I get this fixed I think I will love it! Any info is appreciated!
 

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hello take a look on your fuel filter if its look dark replace its only $6.00 and easy to do ,and check if you have any vacuums hose lose ,this carburetor are very sensible to lose hose
good day
 

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What carb do you have fitted? The original carbs have issues when they get old and can cause problems similar to this.

Mine would die if I tried to accelerate - but I had a snorkel, and I found that if I leaned out of the window and put my hand over the air intake and manaully choked it, it'd run ok (I was in a field at the time).

Eventually replaced the carb and it ran just lovely.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I ran new fuel line and filter, ran great the last 3 weeks, now its doing it again. I did loose the washer that goes underneath the nut on the air cleaner.. Will this cause any issues?
 

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If a new filter and line cleared up the symptoms for 3 weeks and the same symptoms are returning I would suggest that the tank is possibly full of junk and the filter is again clogged. It's worth checking and never a bad idea to have a couple spares onboard anyway.

I have on more than one occasion had to go this route for older vehicles.

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I did put another filter in it...and still did it... But when I took filter off I heard a big gulp of air in the tank?
 

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Hello again if the new filter work for you for a 3 week and then the same problem again ,yes it will be your fuel tank that is rusty or with garbage on it ,i have the same problem with mine and my engine will run only like 10 minutes then the filter was completely clog so you will have to clean you r fuel tank (hard task )or replace the tank
please let us know if this was the problem
 

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It sounds like there was vacuum in the tank, the fuel pump struggles to overcome that vacuum resulting in symptoms consistent with fuel starvation, not unlike a blocked filter.

Excessive vacuum in the tank can usually be traced to a blocked charcoal canister or vented fuel cap that wont vent. Lack of venting creates a negative pressure in the tank as the volume of fuel in the tank drops.

Maybe just for the sake of troubleshooting, when the symptoms present themselves try loosening and re tighten the fuel cap to relieve the vacuum in the tank and see if that temporarily clears up the drivability symptoms. As you loosen the cap you might hear it suck air past the caps threads.

Have you had any fillups in the 3 weeks it was running correctly, how much fuel have you gone through?

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It did release air when opened the cap... When it was running good I was gettin about 22 25 mpg which I thought was ok... Also tried driving it after released cal and still was spit and sputtering bad but idling like a dream
 

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It still sounds like starvation, I really wish I could actually hear it. Another thing you might try for fun is going under and following all the fuel lines from the tank to the engine and making sure none are pinched, kinked or otherwise damaged.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge you can use to measure fuel pressure going up to the carb?

If all else looks good I might start to suspect the carb, is it the factory OEM carb?

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I already checked my Supply line... All free and no kinks... I was afraid of carb, I no nothing when it comes to carbs haha. Basically it will run smooth as can be at idle but when u hammer down for full throttle it either spits and sputters its way up or completly almost dies... I'm going to try to rig up gauge... I'm assuming pump is ok due to nothing leaking out of weap hole or no gas in oil... Not sure..
 

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If its the original carb still I would certainly suspect it, they are notorious for this kind of failure.

If I had a carburated model I would swap it out just for the improved drivability and piece of mind. Weber kits can be had for around $250 new, Im not sure about the HD conversions, I don't use HD parts in ANYTHING just on principle but I have heard they work very well on these engines.

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I checked fuel pressure... I hooked up right before the pump bc that's the size fittings I had... However used some clear lines and am seeing some air bubbles... And no pressure reading any ideas
 

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Before the pump might imply between the pump and the tank. Anywhere between the carb and fuel pump should give up a pressure reading, it wont be very high but it should register around 8-12lbs or so. I will check in the manual and find out exactly what fuel psi is supposed to be.

Tony
 

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I am unable to find that information in either of my Suzy manuals, perhaps someone who has tested a Samurai can chime in with the spec. Carbs generally do not require much pressure.

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok when I get more fittings I will
Try it Tom evening when I get off and let you know... Do you have a link for this carb you recommend?
 

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The fuel pump draws it from the tank (which would be the vacuum if the tank wont vent) and pushes it towards the carburator under some pressure.

To view the Weber conversion kits I just did an Ebay search for "Samurai Weber conversion" and it returned plenty of results starting at around $250. I got a Weber conversion for my MG Midget on Ebay, manifold and all it was like $300 and worked like a champ.

Also again the Harley Davidson conversion is well spoken of and probably deserves a google search as well, its well covered on many of the Samurai sites.

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Checked fuel pressure and I was just shy of 4 lbs. I would think this would be plenty. Also popped the line of canister that comes from fuel tank to see of that would help things and it didn't. I just don't want to throw a carb on it amd have the same problems..
 

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I understand perfectly about blind replacement of parts, I also believe 4lbs is adequate.

I have a habit of testing and troubleshooting as much as possible before throwing money at hard parts.

I assume you have already checked all vac lines in place, no gaping vacuum leaks and everything else in good condition (cap/rotor/plugs/wires).

Did you find a fuel filter under the hood as well as under the rear of the vehicle adjacent to the fuel tank?

Unless someone chimes in to say that the Samurai carb needs a bit more than 4lbs of PSI then I'm leaning heavily towards the carb. It's still difficult to some degree to diagnose without the vehicle in front of me.

*IF* it were mine I may be satisfied at this point that the carb is faulty and replace it, knowing that if I were going to keep and drive the vehicle for any length of time the carb would be upgraded anyway.

They say on these 1.3L engines the two main ways to get a little extra drivability and power is to upgrade to a Weber and a Header/2" exhaust system.

What carb is on it now, is it the factory style carb?

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well I didnt know there was one under the hood? Where is it? All vac lines are good, I have yet to pull cap? I figured it was fuel related?
 
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