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686 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It is now that I must let her go to pay some medical bills.

--Bestop in very good shape, I bought new a few years ago.
--Sidekick seats, Will also include a set of rear Sidekick seats if wanted fair/good condition.
--Sidekick windshield washer and OEM wipers work well.
--Heater works well down to fairly cold ambient temps. I drilled the "hole" that allows for vacuuming out the heater box now and again without tearing into everything. ---AC components were installed when I had the interior stripped. Now has carpet kit over dynamat to better insulate and cut down road noise.
--Safari fold down windshield- needs new glass. Door hinges modified for quick on-off. Takes on a few seconds to remove/replace the doors
--ABS door cards and improved aluminum door handles inside and out.
--Engo 9k winch with nice winch bumper.
--Full roll cage mounted to floor
--HID converted cheap-o KC-like offroad lights. Very effective in the pitch black hills at night. Headlamps are aftermarket capsuls with Osram bulbs, very bright.
--Steering biscuit replaced with the U-joint made for this application.
--Air horn. Aftermarket 10" radiator fan in place of the tired OEM condensor fan.
--Custom dash with instrumentation and marine switches, Grant wheel and OEM column and switches.
--A/C not hooked up, Sidekick compressor with custom lines made to put the kick compressor with the Samurai system. New dryer.
--Sidekick PS with High-Steer kit
--79-85 Toyota axle up front and the later rear axle narrowed on one side made specifically for the Samurai conversion to reduce compound driveline angles.
--Front locker is a selectable ARB air locker, Rear locker is a Lock-Rite. I've never had this thing stuck.
--YJ springs front and back, I bought those new from JEEP dealer a few years back and removed 2 leafs in the rear and one up front. Rides very well
--1.6L 16v Sidekick engine runs fantastic and reasonably strong considering it's being asked to roll 35s. Surprisingly MPG is not to bad either. Will roll 70-75 all day long on flat ground.
--Thorley header with 2.5" exhaust out the back. CAI, Universal performance cat converter and muffler from Flowmaster.
--Lower crankshaft keyway and key were perfect so I installed new WP and timing kit NOT from China! I reinstalled the lower pulley according to the new spec with red loctite, the more recent torque spec was observed on reassembly.
--Transmission. It has the taller 5th gear to lower the highway RPMs a little, Trans is fresh with AUTHENTIC SUZUKI synchros, seals and bearings. No Chinese stuff. It shifts fantastic!
--Transfer Case. Also fresh with no Chinese parts. It has the "Twisted T" conversion (HI-LOW and 2x/4x independently like a twin stick, but with one stick. with the 6.4:1 gears. The lowest gears I could use without lowering the HI range as this was also designed to be reasonably streetable alongside being silly capable offroad, and it is quite capable.
--"Twisted T" shifter knobs for both transfer case and transmission. The transfer case knob shows the shift gate unique to the Twisted T conversion. Even with 4.10 gears and 35" tires the crawl ratios are very nice and street (Hi range) ratios are very, well, streetable.
--Missing link brand shackles front and rear installed with the YJ springs.
--Aftermarket transfer case cradle, cant recall the name but shes a robust beast, I reinforced the frame where it is known to be weak along the Tcase mounting point.
--Alpine Type R component speakers in kick panel and dash, Kicker amp and volume knob with Android bluetooth device. No head unit at all, just stream through your phone plugging right into the amp through a dash mounted attenuator (volume knob).
--Frame mounted nerf bars.
--LED blinkers and running lights with the EP34 (IIRC) flasher made for this conversion so no resistors used and a normal rate of flash.
--10 Gal aftermarket aluminum fuel cell mounted inside against the rear tailgate, plumbed in with a valve to gravity refill the OEM tank in a pinch.
--Bosch frame mounted fuel pump suitable for the EFI engine. Spare pump goes with it.
--Centerforce Clutch was new looking so it went back in with a new TO and pilot bearing, Flywheel was surfaced correctly on both surfaces just for good measure.
--Recent drums, seals, bearings, whyl cyls, shoes and brake hardware in back when I bought and installed the later offset differential housing for the Toyota conversion.
--OEM window sill swipes new on both sides, no aftermarket
--New OEM clutch cable with heat wrap.
--Marine fuse boxe and relays for aftermarket stuff like horn and offroad lights. I solder and heatshrink, not crimp.
--New high quality replacement shift sheets in both trans and transfer case.

I HAVE ALL RECEIPTS FOR EVERYTHING STATED ABOVE, a file over an inch thick with everything I have done.

The bad:
--Some rust starting to happen, not real bad but not real good either. Price discounted accordingly
--Leaky wheel seal up front. I bought a front axle rebuild kit off Ebay but it is from China and appears to be garbage, it is included but I would use Toyota parts and throw this other seal kit away even though some of the flat gaskets are probably fine to use. I did not use Chinese parts anywhere in the drivetrain, I spent the money for the good stuff instead as I planned to keep this for the long haul.
--Tires and rims are shot, although I did drive on them daily for a couple years and they did not wear one bit, their replacement should be in the immediate budget.
--Shocks seem to work fine but they look about as old as the truck, I think they are Rancho but could stand replacement.
--Everything works but the wiring loom could use some tidying up, which I was going to do after I got the AC hooked up and working.

This thing is very capable, not sure how you can get a more capable vehicle for less money. Aside from the worn wheels she runs and drives quite well and has pretty decent MPG and power for a 1.6. If I keep her she will probably get 33s and aluminum Toyota rims as they often turn up on CL quite reasonably priced.
It is FUN to drive in the summer, just pull the doors and top and its a blast. It hurts to sell, the $$ I'm going to loose. I decided to sell when started to see the rust growing and really could use the $$ for other things right now. This fun, reliable, capable and unique vehicle deserves a good home with someone who will use her and maintain her correctly.

IF you have wanted a Samurai with all the right components then this would be a super jumping off point for your build. OR, slap some better wheels on her, a wheel seal and go eat some Jeeps on the cheap. She is plated and street driven sometimes but no longer registered as I got busy playing with bikes.

This truck is located near Rapid City SD in the Black Hills. I am receptive to trades valuing $5000 but for cash $3800 firm would get her.
Trades could be bikes or cars. NO Harleys, JEEP, GM, Kia, Hyundai or Chrysler vehicles but I would at least consider anything else.
Clear title and a bundle of paperwork for your reading pleasure.

THANK YOU for reading and feel free to contact me with any questions or offers, or to come see it. I'll get pics up as soon as I can.
[email protected]
605-646-2300. Is landline so no text.

686 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I'm having trouble with pics, but my wife has it on FB for sale locally with pics, hit me up and I'll get a link for that or email pics directly. It can be seen on the Rapid City and surrounding communities in the FB classifieds.

686 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
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