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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It's the strangest thing.
My 1986 US Samurai JS with the 1.3L 4 valve motor 5spd tranny, 4x4, and 67,xxx miles died while going down a hill, just turned off no stutter or anything. I pulled over at the bottom and checked my fluids and everything seemed fine. However now I can't get it started easily, I have to continually turn the motor and mash the accelerator and take off right away or the engine will die immediately. And it stutters while first accelerating but by the time I get to around 30mph it will smooth out and run just fine. However when I get to slowing down it will consistently die around 20mph. I am stumped I replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter and am still having the same issue what else could it be? I though maybe I could've blown a tooth on my timing belt or something but I took it all apart and replaced the front seal and tensioner pulley and timing belt but still having the same issue. I was also told it could be ignition related so I replaced the spark plugs, wires, and dist cap and rotor.

The engine will turn over but it won't stay running. It sounds like it's going to start but just won't idle. The fuel pump is less than a year old as is the weber carb.
Any advice is greatly appreciated, sorry for the novel, but just trying to cover all the issues.

Thanks a ton!
Jim
 

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Did it run well before that initial event of it shutting down?
Does it make any difference if hot or cold?
All vac lines in tact?
Accelerator pump working as it should?
A Webber can be a finicky mistress. Used em' a lot on the air cooled veedubs so I say it with love.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well it ran impeccably well before the incident, it makes no difference hot or cold, it was definitely at operating temp when it first died which I say because I'd been driving it for about an hour. I've tried cranking it cold and the same problem. Checked all the vac lines to the carb and from the distributor's vacuum advance but they all looked ok to me are there any other places I should check? As far as I am aware the accelerator pump is working too, it's definitely getting more gas when I push it and I can look down the throat of the carb and see fuel. It has an electric choke which is something I plan to replace with manual, but it wouldn't cause that much of a problem would it?

Thanks,
Jim
 

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If the choke failed and closed at operating temp it would run crazy rich, probably mostly undriveable.

I have recently been reading and learning about how the Suzuki ECU can do strange things when they begin to fail, often due to faulty caps and/or mechanic error. I'm not done educating myself on these systems so I think I would like to see if someone else will draw a parallel between these symptoms and the ECU/Distributor. I dont think the ECU does much now that you have a Weber installed.

I would like to say this about Webers in general. I have on several occasions had to field strip/blow out with compressed air/reassemble/retune. I got to where this didn't take long at all. Seems that old gas tanks can dump crap in almost regardless of filtration and cause various drivability problems. Also I used just a touch of Vaseline on the gaskets allowing easy disassemble and reuse of the said gaskets several times. A trick that helped me with Holley, Dellorto and Weber.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I readjusted the choke which was not closed with the engine cold and noticed that the base plate that the carburetor was mounted to was loose and there was gasoline leaking from it, I unbolted the carburetor from the plate and the bolts securing it to the intake manifold were so loose I could turn them by hand so I took it off cleaned the bottom and made sure my gasket was good and then cranked them down nice and tight after reinstalling the carb and setting the ignition timing now it purrs like a kitten and runs soooo smooth.
 
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