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Hi
I am used to quality and longevity on Suzuki.
What do I need to pay attention to when buying 1.9 DDis 2007-2009 ?
The regular diesel engine checks off course but would like to know if there are any specific areas worth looking at before purchase.
Thank you in advance!
meehow
 

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im my opinion. buy a 2.4 petrol rather than the F9Q renault diesel, you will thank me in the long run. These are known for turbo seals, boost control vanes sticking, leaking injectors, over fueling and DPf issues.
 

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Diesels from 2012 are better, They fixed issues.

If you can afford the petrol comsuption, go ahead, of course. Japanese car with japanese engine works better.
 

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I have a ddis 2010
I just bought a 2011 2.4 petrol for my daughter twice the car half the running cost seriously I wouldn’t buy another turbo diesel I’ve had nothing but trouble dpf limp mode all the time service costs and parts are astronomical for the ddis compares to the petrol and their identical in power buy a petrol and almost same in fuel economy in my experience
 

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Hi
I own have a 2006 grand vitara 1.9 ddis.I bought it at 72.000km.The first owner bought the car from Spain.The owner was called by the dealer to make multiple modifications/fixes on the car.When i bought it at 72.000 km was already fixed.I would recommend to check if the car had the recalls done in warranty and the factory problems solved.
I own the car for 2-3 years and the biggest challenge was with DPF.The previous owner stayed in a small city and make long roads daily for work so no DPF problems.I am a big city guy with not so often outside trips.For me the DPF became a challenge.
Key points:
  • Engine oil is CRITICAL to wheter your DPF gets clogged every weekend or once every 3 weeks.Initially i put Castrol 5w30 titaniumFST LL ACEA C3 oil and i got the DPF light on every weekend doing only city driving.It was anoying..I begun to research and fortunetly there is a new oil model that i don't think was available in 2006. The C4 standard made specifically for renault with identification RN720.Most of the manufactures have a dedicated oil with this standard.I would recommend reading the difference between Acea C4 vs Acea C3 so you understand the disatvantage of the C4 standard.
  • The 1.9Dddis was the first diesel i ever owned.I had to enter in the field of additives.There are some additives that make the diesel burning much more complete and efficient so you avoid clogging the DPF directly from burning part.Doing this you make the regeneration cycles as rare as possible.The additives are added for a full tank of diesel.I bought additives from STP and Liqui Moly.Because the cost is a little bit more overall if you put the additives at every tank but you prevent DPF clogging.
  • The irony is the Suzuki codes for renault engine parts are double the price than If i buy the same part only under Renault brand.I am glad that i have a Renault engine for this reason.
  • Another aspect that is important especially to diesel is decarbonisation of the engine.The petrol make far less carbon deposits than the diesel.You have to decarbon the car to keep the smoothness, responsives of the car.Otherwise you will lose power.
  • Another thing i use additive like Common Rail Diesel Clean and Protect often in a full tank to have cleran injectors and system.
I may have been luckier than many people to receive a "fixed" 1.9 ddis engine so i don't have the bad experiences that many above say.
After i switched from petrol to diesel i was kinda dissapointed at first.High noise, vibrations, the DPF challenges, all the additive costs time and research but now i got used to it.

There is fun exploring the specificities of the diesel engine.For example when i go from full stop to move the car in 1st gear i used only the clutch.THis is the smoothest way to begin moving the car.You can't do this in a petrol.

If you are interested in other information please ask .... :)
 

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Exactly, as it is said by @myststars, there are 2 oils for this engine. The first generation used C3. Mine, from 2013, uses 5w30 C4. I bought the car with 125K kms, now it's 150K kms. I've never seen a DPF regeneration. I think it's due to the fact that my engine uses C4 instead of C3 ACEA.
On the other hand, if you drive on fast roads (more than 120 kms/h) I think this thinner oil is consumed more. No big deal, refilling it is easy.
I haven't experienced any problem attributed to the diesel, rather common problems with the platform: the free height is low, if you protect it you lose free height, the air conditioner doesn't work fine like a modern vehicle, and if it's cold, it often gets cold air, something quite annoying, but it seems common platform failure.

I tried to create a post about this, but it wasn't very successful. (Diesel engine oil C4).


I didn't buy one of the first models and therefore I don't suggest it because: the gears are shorter, so on the road it sounds more, and it spends more.
It's less soundproof.
EGR problems were solved in the last update.
The engine map goes a little different.
It's Euro 4 instead of Euro 5.
I'd look for one with the ESP disconnect button, as it ensures you have the traction control for the field (it brakes the wheel that's left in the air).
The last version, from 2012, has 4 ventilated disc brakes, the first ones had a drum on the back, according to the finish.
I would notice in finish that it has 6 airbags, and not 2, as the ones in JLX.

These are my recommendations if you're looking for a car for daily use. If you want something cheap to use in the field only, you probably don't need to go to the modern one.
 

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Exactly, as it is said by @myststars, there are 2 oils for this engine. The first generation used C3. Mine, from 2013, uses 5w30 C4. I bought the car with 125K kms, now it's 150K kms. I've never seen a DPF regeneration. I think it's due to the fact that my engine uses C4 instead of C3 ACEA.
On the other hand, if you drive on fast roads (more than 120 kms/h) I think this thinner oil is consumed more. No big deal, refilling it is easy.
I haven't experienced any problem attributed to the diesel, rather common problems with the platform: the free height is low, if you protect it you lose free height, the air conditioner doesn't work fine like a modern vehicle, and if it's cold, it often gets cold air, something quite annoying, but it seems common platform failure.

I tried to create a post about this, but it wasn't very successful. (Diesel engine oil C4).


I didn't buy one of the first models and therefore I don't suggest it because: the gears are shorter, so on the road it sounds more, and it spends more.
It's less soundproof.
EGR problems were solved in the last update.
The engine map goes a little different.
It's Euro 4 instead of Euro 5.
I'd look for one with the ESP disconnect button, as it ensures you have the traction control for the field (it brakes the wheel that's left in the air).
The last version, from 2012, has 4 ventilated disc brakes, the first ones had a drum on the back, according to the finish.
I would notice in finish that it has 6 airbags, and not 2, as the ones in JLX.

These are my recommendations if you're looking for a car for daily use. If you want something cheap to use in the field only, you probably don't need to go to the modern one.

I use C4 and it still regenerate once in a while.In my opinion the fact that i have a 2006 system of DPF is the difference.Your DPF system is anno 2012 and is modern.The newer diesel cars 2011 and above in general that i drove doesn't need regenerations like mine.I've encountered a situation where the DPF light came on a 2011 Citroen Nemo 1.4l but the problem was from somewhere else.and the DPF was a sympthom.
Another thing is i do feel the 2006 series is cheaper to maintain because is simpler than 2012 series.The 2006 Grand Vitara may be more Off-Road tuned with short gears. :)
NGV13: Can you send me the owners car manual for your 2012 in pdf ? I need a 2012 model Vin to access which i don't have..I wanted to look for some info.What coolant did your use ? Mine use green coolant that is valid 2 years or 30.000 km.


Thank you.
 

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I use C4 and it still regenerate once in a while.In my opinion the fact that i have a 2006 system of DPF is the difference.Your DPF system is anno 2012 and is modern.The newer diesel cars 2011 and above in general that i drove doesn't need regenerations like mine.I've encountered a situation where the DPF light came on a 2011 Citroen Nemo 1.4l but the problem was from somewhere else.and the DPF was a sympthom.
Another thing is i do feel the 2006 series is cheaper to maintain because is simpler than 2012 series.The 2006 Grand Vitara may be more Off-Road tuned with short gears. :)
NGV13: Can you send me the owners car manual for your 2012 in pdf ? I need a 2012 model Vin to access which i don't have..I wanted to look for some info.What coolant did your use ? Mine use green coolant that is valid 2 years or 30.000 km.


Thank you.
gear ratios are basically the same across all the 3G years, different diff ratios only between the auto and manual transmissions. Transfer is 1:1 in H and 1.97:1 in L on all models

2005 was the first year of the F9Q diesel, and they remained virtually unchanged until they were no longer offered by Suzuki after the 2011 production year. minor modifications to oil requirements and DPF regen cycles and other ECM tuning for emissions but same internals to the engine.
Some really seem to clog up, some don't. We had 2 of the 2009 models at work, one was always having DPf and turbo vane issues, the other one did 250,000 kms with no problems, both had oil changes every 5000 kms, filled at the same places, and were driven on the same roads, all by different drivers as they were "pool" vehicles.

I still stand by my earlier statement, they are terrible little diesels, under powered, noisy and have inherent issues. I would not buy one. Ever.

as an aside, the original poster who asked about these, hasn't been back on here since his first post 3 months ago.
 

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gear ratios are basically the same across all the 3G years, different diff ratios only between the auto and manual transmissions. Transfer is 1:1 in H and 1.97:1 in L on all models

2005 was the first year of the F9Q diesel, and they remained virtually unchanged until they were no longer offered by Suzuki after the 2011 production year. minor modifications to oil requirements and DPF regen cycles and other ECM tuning for emissions but same internals to the engine.
Some really seem to clog up, some don't. We had 2 of the 2009 models at work, one was always having DPf and turbo vane issues, the other one did 250,000 kms with no problems, both had oil changes every 5000 kms, filled at the same places, and were driven on the same roads, all by different drivers as they were "pool" vehicles.

I still stand by my earlier statement, they are terrible little diesels, under powered, noisy and have inherent issues. I would not buy one. Ever.

as an aside, the original poster who asked about these, hasn't been back on here since his first post 3 months ago.

In general The irony is the diesel engine is the most popular in my country.I replaced my Frontera 2.0l petrol and i wanted a car with Low range.The only car that is under 2.0 l (to be cheap on tax), popular enough to exist on sale in my country and Euro4 was the Grand Vitara 1.9ddis.The cars over 2.0 litre engine are too expensive because of the taxes.The low range gear became an exotic add in Euro 4 and above cars.The Jimny was too small.
I put oil engine additive to reduce the engine noise.A DPF additive to make the diesel burning as efficient as possible and C4 oil and good to go.The biggest chanllenge is the ground clearance that is awfull.The Frontera had 23 cm and this now is around 19 cm because i put shields under.If i lift it i am entering in unknown teritory with legality.I wanted a 4-5 cm lift.
Also i made the decarbonisation by softly spraying tap water in the intake when in idle.It made big difference in responsiveness i got some power back.Many people in my country said that by decarbo the engine in the official way it will remove big chunks of carbon and may end up in the dpf and destroy it.The tap water dissolves the deposits and looked to me much safer.Owning the diesel i learned so much.
 

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you are lucky you didn't destroy it with the water trick. Very very silly and dangerous method to use. Water does not compress.
 

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you are lucky you didn't destroy it with the water trick. Very very silly and dangerous method to use. Water does not compress.
I looked at many videos and people that done that on their cars.The water is transformed in steam.It is critical to have the engine at optimum hot level and then you do the water trick.The water transforms instantly in steam.And that steam dissolves the carbon deposits.It is recommended after you done a high speed highway trip.
Also there was a scenario where in offroad when one may traverse deep water.One may encounter deeper holes and water accidentaly may end up in intake.Spraying droplets of water seems not as a big problem.
Also if you don't like the water there is a special spray from Liqui Moly for decarbonisation but you need to remove the turbo and spray directly in the throttle valve.As i am not a mechanic and don't how to do that i prefered the water method.Remove the intake pipe after maf and spray.
 

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The water becomes steam only when it enters the cylinder and is heated by the compressed air in the cylinder. I reiterate, it's a very silly and potentially damaging thing to do. I have seen less than a teaspoon of water in the intake destroy a diesel engine.

This should not be confused with water injection systems that inject controlled amounts of atomized water at specific parts of a combustion cycle to reduce emissions

I did some calculations and it's going to take approximately 1.5 teaspoons of water to hydrolock a cylinder. The only thing that saved you is that most of it ended up in the intercooler and was drawn slowly thru the engine. I'm also surprised the turbo survived the water ingestion
 

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The water becomes steam only when it enters the cylinder and is heated by the compressed air in the cylinder. I reiterate, it's a very silly and potentially damaging thing to do. I have seen less than a teaspoon of water in the intake destroy a diesel engine.

This should not be confused with water injection systems that inject controlled amounts of atomized water at specific parts of a combustion cycle to reduce emissions

I did some calculations and it's going to take approximately 1.5 teaspoons of water to hydrolock a cylinder. The only thing that saved you is that most of it ended up in the intercooler and was drawn slowly thru the engine. I'm also surprised the turbo survived the water ingestion

After i've done the water trick i had a 20 km of highway at 120 km/h to see the new feel of the car.The people that done this on youtube say that the water will clean the turbo too.If the turbo wouldn't have survived would have been instant symthoms ?
Anyway next time i may try the special decarb spray from Liqui Moly :
From what i see 26 people are pleased with it.
The point is the decarb must be done one way or another.
 

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instant symptoms, big puff of smoke and dead engine.
Long term symptoms from putting water thru a hot turbo, jammed pressure control vanes, micro fractures in the compressor turbine wheel leading to high frequency vibration and compressor wheel and turbo bearing failure.

this is what can happen when you add a teaspoon of water to a GA16DE Nissan PETROL engine air intake, diesels take less water than this to do damage
 

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instant symptoms, big puff of smoke and dead engine.
Long term symptoms from putting water thru a hot turbo, jammed pressure control vanes, micro fractures in the compressor turbine wheel leading to high frequency vibration and compressor wheel and turbo bearing failure.

this is what can happen when you add a teaspoon of water to a GA16DE Nissan PETROL engine air intake, diesels take less water than this to do damage
I will keep that in mind.Thank you.
 

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gear ratios are basically the same across all the 3G years, different diff ratios only between the auto and manual transmissions. Transfer is 1:1 in H and 1.97:1 in L on all models

2005 was the first year of the F9Q diesel, and they remained virtually unchanged until they were no longer offered by Suzuki after the 2011 production year. minor modifications to oil requirements and DPF regen cycles and other ECM tuning for emissions but same internals to the engine.
Some really seem to clog up, some don't. We had 2 of the 2009 models at work, one was always having DPf and turbo vane issues, the other one did 250,000 kms with no problems, both had oil changes every 5000 kms, filled at the same places, and were driven on the same roads, all by different drivers as they were "pool" vehicles.

I still stand by my earlier statement, they are terrible little diesels, under powered, noisy and have inherent issues. I would not buy one. Ever.

as an aside, the original poster who asked about these, hasn't been back on here since his first post 3 months ago.
I confess I tend to agree. I bought the diesel because I found a fairly low mileage one and while DPF doesn't seem to be an issue, probably because I do regular runs at speed, I find the gear ratios dreadful with too much changing down if you haven't got the revs screaming. I've also just had the injector warning light come on - first time I've ever had that, never mind on an engine with only 40k miles on it! I've been spoiled by years of high drama-free mileages on Nissan diesels. I'm seriously thinking of getting rid and getting a Toyota pickup instead.
 

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I confess I tend to agree. I bought the diesel because I found a fairly low mileage one and while DPF doesn't seem to be an issue, probably because I do regular runs at speed, I find the gear ratios dreadful with too much changing down if you haven't got the revs screaming. I've also just had the injector warning light come on - first time I've ever had that, never mind on an engine with only 40k miles on it! I've been spoiled by years of high drama-free mileages on Nissan diesels. I'm seriously thinking of getting rid and getting a Toyota pickup instead.

I discovered recently that diesels runs the best at their specific torque / rpm rated in the book and keep that speed.I begun to drive this way and it feels much relaxed even on the highway.I go at 80 km/h at 2000 rpm in 5th gear.The engine is very relaxed and drives easily and not much noise.
 

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I use C4 and it still regenerate once in a while.In my opinion the fact that i have a 2006 system of DPF is the difference.Your DPF system is anno 2012 and is modern.The newer diesel cars 2011 and above in general that i drove doesn't need regenerations like mine.I've encountered a situation where the DPF light came on a 2011 Citroen Nemo 1.4l but the problem was from somewhere else.and the DPF was a sympthom.
Another thing is i do feel the 2006 series is cheaper to maintain because is simpler than 2012 series.The 2006 Grand Vitara may be more Off-Road tuned with short gears. :)
NGV13: Can you send me the owners car manual for your 2012 in pdf ? I need a 2012 model Vin to access which i don't have..I wanted to look for some info.What coolant did your use ? Mine use green coolant that is valid 2 years or 30.000 km.


Thank you.
Hello, I have the physical manual, but with the Reference (99011-78KM6-01S mine is spanish) I found the PDF manual in english for you (Ref.: 99011-78KM6-01E). I have checked It is the same, with C4 oil indicator. The coolant I used is the blue one Long Life 5L(suzuki reference: 990F0-59J44-EC1).



In this link, you have all manual reference for the last version:

 
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