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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I am now on another ghost chase. this one having to do with my cooling system. I just got out of another deep freeze in canada and my kick has been acting up. The truck recently started overheating. I thought the thermostat was bad so I replaced it (with an OEM Suzuki thermostat) it is the correct thermostat. after that I refilled it, burped it and called it done. After that It took at least twice as long to warm up and it still overheated (after the temperature gauge plateaued at around half for a bit). again top of the rad was hot and bottom of the rad was cold. then I got a third thermostat (this one an aftermarket stant thermostat as suggested by fixkick). again the same thing happened :mad:. next i took a risky move and warmed it up a bit. I put on protective gloves and glasses and opened the stat housing I found the stat OPEN IN THE HOUSING?! next i thought the waterpump. so i removed the waterpump and housing and again found nothing wrong. and yes each time I replaced the thermostat the little bleeder valve was lined up with the arrow on the housing. you guys have any ideas?

also im sure its not the heater hoses as the heater blows and has always blown hot
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Radiator flows cleanly. Flushed it with coolant to be sure. The problem is there is no flow through the rad for some reason. Rad is brand new it was replaced when I accidentally punctured the old one with a ratchet when I did the timing chains. I saw another thread on this forum describing the same problem. It was a 12 page long dead end.
 

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Dang! :huh:

Pump impeller blades there in their entirety?

A thoroughly "burped" system?

Proper air flow across the rad fins?

The BLOCK isn't crapped up, right?

Last idea...combustion gases present in the rad? :(
 

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The cooling system is fairly logical - blockages, bad thermostat, bad waterpump.
So, as Max says, have you thoroughly burped this system with the heater on while doing so? Bleeder hole facing the radiator? Proper radiator cap (0.9bar?) No obstruction to radiator? Normally problems with the waterpump show up when there's a load on the engine, rather than just idling in the driveway. I would try burping again, making sure that the radiator is at the high point (like parking on an incline), radiator cap off, let the car idle until warmed up, heater on, and look for more bubbles coming out of the radiator fill hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Proper rad cap, burped with heater on although if i leave the cap open coolant will spill out of the rad due to the thormostat being on the bottom. the car will idle fine with the temperature gauge sitting in the middle like it should. however once I take it out for a little drive. the gauge will creep up into the red (I pull over just as the needle starts going into the red to prevent damage). rad is clear, fan works fine (did the rolled up newspaper test). I checked for gasses in the rad using a tester with blue dye. the dye stayed blue. waterpump is intact and the blades are good, I dont have the electrolysis problem as I fixed the large grounding points on the car when I redid the stereo
 

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Did you install the correct SIZE radiator (cooling capacity wise)? :huh:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
im pretty sure its the correct radiator (the car worked fine before and it worked well even during the hot summer months)
 

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So the only thing that changed IS the radiator (and new timing belt). :rolleyes:

Unless the valve timing is off. Does it run well otherwise? Plenty of power? No detonation ping?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Max LOL I don't have a timing belt. I have the 1.8L sport (same engine as the 2L GV just stroked) the chains and tensioners and sprockets are replaced along with the radiator. I also replaced the thermostat 2 times yesterday and it seems that none have had an effect on the problem. Although I know for a fact that coolant isn't going through the rad for some reason. Truck runs just as it did before I replaced the chains

in case you are wondering i checked out the suzuki esteem thermostat, it was much smaller than the one that is supposed to be there. (stant PN 45849, the one that I have (also stated on the stant site 14378)
 

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Well, you got me! :mellow:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ah its OK we are all human anyway. so on regards to thermostats I orderd the one on fixkick and the one that is stated in the catalog (PNs in previous post). the one suggested by Fixkixk was much smaller than the OEM stat. Im getting a new waterpump as well. if that doesnt fix it then i dont know what to do from here.
 

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I would still suspect a clogged radiator, even though it is newish. With an infrared gun you could probably check for proper flow fairly thoroughly.

When I had an overheating problem a while back, I figured it was the water pump and so I went in and changed it along with timing belt kit, new hoses and a new thermostat. After putting it back together I had the same symptoms as you; I could idle all day long, but on a drive it started overheating.

When I would pull the radiator cap and look down in it, I could even see when the thermostat opened by way of coolant flowing. So I figured the radiator was fine due to that good flow. After playing with thermostat replacements for a while, and even replacing the fan clutch needlessly, I finally bought an infrared gun and that let me realise that although good flow was happening at my view point, it was not flowing well throughout the entire radiator.

I am not saying this is your issue, and I know your radiator is fairly new, but thought I would share my 1.6L experience in case it somehow applies to your situation.

I sure wish you luck, I know how depressing it can be to chase a cooling issue.

randy
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks randy. the thing is the 1.8 cooling system is laid out much differently than the 1.6. on the 1.6 your t stat is on top before the output hose. this way you can tell your t stat opens by watching the coolant flow. on the 1.8 the tstat is on the water pump inlet so if you open the cap it will overflow in the rad until the stat opens. its a dumb design if you ask me.
 

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If the heater is getting hot the water pump is working.

Have you tried removing the T stat? (for testing only, I would not recommend leaving it that way...)

Have you flushed the radiator, simulating flow?
 

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Hey! Have you ruled out a temperature gauge / circuit issue? :huh:

Actual IR temperature recordings at key areas or a second (known accurate) gauge comparison would pay great dividends here toward temperature verification / problem solving.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
to M: I havent tried running it with no T stat yet. I havent flushed the rad, is there a proper way to do this? looking in the cap the rad looks so clean you can eat off it. there is no flow through the tubes though (il post tomorrow or friday the numbers if i get it going again). what i found funny though was the t stat was OPEN when i opened the housing when the engine was warm (I was wearing safety gear when i did this). i pumped some air through it (the rad with coolant in the lower rad hose) and it flows fine. something is weird here. once it warms up it the gauge will sit in the middle for a bit and then after about 2 miles it will creep closer to the red (and just before it hits red i pull over) it will stay up there and slowly go down. until i shut it off and i can hear the coolant gurgling in the pipes. although BOTH THE RAD AND THE LOWER HOSE IS AMBIANT TEMP! i went through 3 thermostats so far. im just wondering what gives? heater core is good, water pump flows, block is clear i can pour coolant in the engine and it will flow through all the holes cleanly. there is no carbon in the system, my exhaust tester gave me blue (it turned green once because it sucked up a bunch of coolant and i have green coolant) and the heater blows and has always blown smoking hot so the heater core is still good.

to Max: i didnt use my IR gauge but i know the coolant gauge isnt lying. when it is on the edge of red i can hear coolant boiling and the expansion tank fills up. also my oil temperature gauge (sensor in the oil gallery above the water pump) goes near the red zone too.

sorry about the caps lock cruise control im just upset i cant get my car fixed.
 

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I'm confused. Post #3...
Radiator flows cleanly. Flushed it with coolant to be sure
Yet now you have flow doubts, somehow pumped AIR through it (for what reason i have no idea) and are asking how to flush a radiator, yet it is new. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I disconected the rad from the whole system and blwe some air in through the top (plugged the inlet.) The only thing that comes to mind is the thermostat. the rad doesnt get hot at all (exept the top tank)
 

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Try flushing water through it. Air can get through blockages that water can't.
 
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