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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys it's been a while since I posted something but I noticed my exhaust manifold has a crack in it and a replacement is very difficult to find. I was thinking. Hmm we'll if the manifold is cracked, why not step up to a header. This is the problem. No one in North America makes headers for these things. I know doug thorley and calmini makes a header for the 1.6 (which is a totally different header for a totally different motor).

I looked online and I found 2 company's. Hurricane Headers and Suzisport in Australia makes headers for the 2nd gen 4 doors with the 2 liter J20. The engine bay looks just about identical to the one in my kick and I'd think it would fit. The thing is has anyone dealt with these guys? The suzisport website looks a bit sketchy to me (hasn't been updated in a while). If not how difficult would it be to make a header? (As far as I know they are fairly complex as they are individually tuned for the engine) I have access to welders and steel tubing to make one. Other notes about my kick. It has a 2 inch exhaust (which I fabricated with my dad) with a magnaflow muffler.
 

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I bought a new one from Southwest Suzuki a year ago, but they no longer sell Suzuki parts. But these guys show it also....
1997 Suzuki Sidekick Parts - Suzuki Car Parts Catalog Online Store

I checked into the Hurricane header, but it total price would have been over $600 to ship it to the US. Plus, they could not guarantee it would fit in a left hand drive without modifying it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3


Looking at this shot here it looks like it will clear the steering shaft. It looks like it should bolt right up to my existing cat. (If it doesn't quite line up I'm planning on replacing the cat pipe as well as the heat shilds make quite a racket at low idle). Thanks for the website there I think that will help should I decide to just replace the manifold. Btw kodiak, how did your exhaust turn out?
 

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To replace the cracked stock cast iron manifold on my J18, I picked up a tube type manifold for a J20 Tracker/Vit.

Cost about $35 at pick-n-pull. I still need to get/make a down pipe as the cat for the J20 Tracker is normally bolted right to the manifold.
 

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To replace the cracked stock cast iron manifold on my J18, I picked up a tube type manifold for a J20 Tracker/Vit.

Cost about $35 at pick-n-pull. I still need to get/make a down pipe as the cat for the J20 Tracker is normally bolted right to the manifold.
I wish I had thought of that before I spent over $300 shipped for my new replacement manifold.
 

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Looking at this shot here it looks like it will clear the steering shaft. It looks like it should bolt right up to my existing cat. (If it doesn't quite line up I'm planning on replacing the cat pipe as well as the heat shilds make quite a racket at low idle). Thanks for the website there I think that will help should I decide to just replace the manifold. Btw kodiak, how did your exhaust turn out?

Like I said, I just used a stock replacement exhaust manifold, so it was a direct bolt-on.

That pic definitely looks like it would clear, I'm just not sure if it's worth the $600-$700 with shipping. I may someday go with a tubular J20 exhaust, manifold like Mike suggested, with a Magnaflow muffler with 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" piping to let the 2.3 I have in it breath a little better.
 

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Looking at this shot here it looks like it will clear the steering shaft.
I just want to draw one thing to your attention - the vehicle you're looking at is not the SV418 1.8 Sidekick Sport, it's an SQ420 - the chassis is different, the steering is different - the SQ is a wider vehicle than the SV - take a tape measure and get a rough idea of the distance between your frame rails - it's just about 30" on the SQ - if your's is less you may have an issue.

You may feel that the engine bay "looks just about identical" but I can tell from that picture which of the two I'm looking at, so I can see the differences even if you can't.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks again for the info Fordem. I can tell its a 2l 2nd gen from the tubular strut brace il have a lock and try the measurement. I thought the 2 shared the same chassis but I learn new things every day. Where would you measure the distance? Just curious.

I like the idea of using a 2L manifold. Is this it here?



Looks considerably less restrictive then the cast iron one
 

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Discussion Starter #10
just a good question M000035. did you notice any performance difference with the 2L manifold over the 1.8L cast iron piece? i think i can live with this small crack for a bit. I just wanted some opinions.
 

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just a good question M000035. did you notice any performance difference ....
The motor is not installed. (yet) It is a good thing I do not get paid to work on this as I got the JDM motor that I am installing last summer! :rolleyes:

I get to work on it maybe 10 or 15 minutes each day. (I read and type here as I eat and brush my teeth.)

If they didn't crack, the stock 1.8 manifold (and the 16v) is actually a better design for lower range torque. Look up "Tri-Y Headers" or read here: Facts About Headers

As for a "performance difference" for just the difference between a cracked manifold and this 2.0 "header," I will never really know. I had an old neglected motor (that blew up almost 2 years ago) that I am replacing with a "60,000 mile" used motor that LOOKS like it had been cared for.

Plus I removed a bent up tin, air spinning "mileage enhancer" thingy that I found in the intake piping. I can never understand how anyone could think something that restrictive could HELP anything...
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I understand the concept of a tri Y design and the stock part does have a bit of a tri Y design to it. It improves power all around which is nice (not as peaky as a 4 in 1 does) maybe il fabricate a "shorty" for it. Sorry to hear about your situation M. Oh yeah those turbinator things. What a load of a** those are. If I do fabricate a header there WILL be pictures.

And kodiak I wouldn't mind one of those either. With an AEM piggyback and bigger injectors with a Garet T3 on the flange ;) . And these motors can handle a decent amount of boost on stock parts (the J20s can run around 5PSI according to another forum user) the thing is the j18s have hollow crankshafts. Would be fun as heck though.

Another thing has anyone seen the exhaust manifolds on the areio? They look like "shorty's"
Although a custom down pipe would be required.
 

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I think I still have the stock Aerio manifold that came with my 2.3 somewhere in my shop. Here it is still in the back of my truck when I brought the engine home.

 

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...
Another thing has anyone seen the exhaust manifolds on the areio? They look like "shorty's" Although a custom down pipe would be required.
...
The only problem is the output of the Aerio "Shorty header" is right where the motor mount is on a rear wheel drive set-up.

Other than that... it is an interesting item. :D
 

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The only problem is the output of the Aerio "Shorty header" is right where the motor mount is on a rear wheel drive set-up.

Other than that... it is an interesting item. :D
Exactly. I had thoughts of modifying it to work in my Sport, but just wanted to get the engine swap over with. I may play with it later on, but it's not high on the priority list.
 
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