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Old 05-01-2018, 06:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by avisitor View Post
May be try unplugging the MAF sensor then start engine
If the engine behaves the same then info sent by MAF isn't the cause of the high idle
If the engine doesn't have the high idle anymore then MAF would then be suspect item
Guess what, I've unplugged the MAF sensor and the rpm fall back to its normal value (at least under 2000 rpm then down to 900 -1000 after a few seconds!!

I am convinced that the MAF sensor is wrong, but I want to test it before try to purchase a new one. Did you know about some testing procedures that I can try??
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:52 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Please ask fordem for more information
I found his logic quite compelling ... ???
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Old 05-02-2018, 07:54 AM   #13 (permalink)
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MAF test procedures will vary with the type of MAF sensor and at this point I have no idea what type of MAF sensor an Epica would have - a diagnostic reader with live output should at the very least show increasing air flow with increasing engine RPM.

It should also be noted that disconnecting the MAF sensor will in many cases force the ECU into a "limp" mode where it substitutes preprogrammed values for the missing data and this will immediately change how the engine operates.

If I go outside and unplug the MAF sensor on my GV, the engine will immediately start to run so rich that the engine floods, the idle speed drops and the engine will stall unless I open the throttle - and it does this because the throttle plate does not admit enough air to allow it to burn the excess fuel.

On a gasoline engine, rpms are directly tied to the available air flow, add more fuel and it will not run faster.
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