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Old 07-28-2019, 05:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Power Brakes and Driveshaft Vibes

Hi,
I have a couple of items that I am unsure about. First - my car is a 1990 Geo Tracker with 67K original miles. It is 4x4 and 5 speed, no lift or alterations. A very clean very stock car with original paint and original interior. Tires are 235/75 R15 BFG A/T.

Power Brakes - the pedal effort seems too high, and I practically have to stand on the pedal to get even a bit of lockup. I can feel the power booster working as the pedal height changes with the engine off. Pedal effort reminds me of my old Honda 600 sedan that had similar pedal effort. Is this normal? I have not driven any other cars so nothing to compare to. I also have redone the front brakes (new rotors, rebuilt the calipers, new mounting hardware), and the rear brakes are functioning normally with no leaks, etc.

Driveshaft vibes - I am getting a vibration at about 45mph. Does not matter what gear I am in, or whether I am accelerating, decelerating, or maintaining speed. I initially thought the spline might be worn on the driveshaft and purchased another spline part (goes into txfr case). Both splines have a similar amount of play. When the driveshaft is installed - I get about 1mm (.040") play up/down at the u-joint at the output to the rear axle at the transfer case u-joint. This is more than double what I get at the front driveshaft and both use the same construction. I am now thinking the the roller bearing in the txfr case rear housing behind the seal may be the issue. I would appreciate any feedback on this before I start ripping into something else...

Also, is there a trans shop familiar with these vehicles in Orange County, California? I have a messed up shoulder and doing the transfer case rear housing R&R would not feel very good right now...

Sorry for the novel, and thanks for any help with the above issues.
Doug
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Old 07-30-2019, 04:55 AM   #2 (permalink)
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In searching through the forum, I find that you’ve had a thread regarding some of these issues already.
https://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...slip-yoke.html
By the way, I have the 1991 Tracker, and have had 67K miles twice on my odometer, and am heading for a 3rd time. Anyway, hoping your’s is legit.
No, what you are feeling in the brakes is not normal. When you’re talking about ‘lock up’ are you talking about the rears? Give some more info as to what you mean. Superficially, if you’re talking about the rears, it sounds like you have an obstruction in the pipes going to the rear brakes, or something amiss with the booster. This car should stop really well, with little effort at the pedal.
There should be no play at the U-joints up and down. Have you checked the balance in the rear tires? Where do you feel the vibration, or is it something that you hear rather than feel??? For example, an increase in exhaust backpressure due to an exhaust obstruction at a certain rpm can cause a audio vibration at a particular rpm
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Old 07-30-2019, 06:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Bex,
Thanks for the response. Miles are legit - original owner bought as first car and did not want to part with it - it was just stored in the garage for years. Original paint and clearcoat are in great glossy shape except for bumpers.
Regarding the brakes - The fronts are 100% new and I had no trouble bleeding them so no restrictions there. At the rear - it looks like the drivers side front piston may be frozen causing the front shoe to drag slightly - I have new slave cylinders on order and will do them this weekend. So far I have not had any issues with brakes seeming stuck - just a high pedal effort. I can get the brakes to start to lock the tires with effort but it seems higher than it should be. No pulling or other bad manners, and e-brake works well and will lock rears. Power booster is functioning as the pedal is lower and effort is less with motor running, but may not be at 100%?

Regarding the vibration - It has to be at the driveshaft as the frequency is too high for it to be tires. Tires are less than 1 year old and all weights are there. I hear it more than feel it - maybe just a slight buzz in the shifter. I ordered new txfr case gaskets and bearings so I can get the roller bearing in the tailshaft replaced as that may be the source of looseness at the slip yoke. The front slip yoke will barely move while the rear will move at least 1mm. Exhaust looks correct and original and no funny noises or restrictions. U-joints felt smooth, move easy with no play so not coming from there.
Thanks!
Doug
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Old 07-30-2019, 06:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Have you considered the disk pads you have fitted as a possible cause? I'm currently running EBC GreenStuff on my vehicle, and these require noticeably more pedal pressure than the previous pads.
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Old 07-30-2019, 07:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I am running new rotors with top line Centric pads which have worked well for me on other vehicles.
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Old 07-31-2019, 12:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You seem to indicate that you just bled the front brakes? Is that correct? Normally they are bled from the rear, starting at the left rear. What braking system do you have - the RWAL or LSPV??
The Ďvibrationí you talk about - itís something that you hear, but not feel? Are you sure that itís not a slight exhaust obstruction that would make a noise at a specific RPM in all gears due to the backpressure?
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Old 07-31-2019, 02:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bex View Post
You seem to indicate that you just bled the front brakes? Is that correct? Normally they are bled from the rear, starting at the left rear. What braking system do you have - the RWAL or LSPV??

The Ďvibrationí you talk about - itís something that you hear, but not feel? Are you sure that itís not a slight exhaust obstruction that would make a noise at a specific RPM in all gears due to the backpressure?
I don't know what RWAL or LSPV stand for. I blocked the brake pedal partway down when I removed the calipers so no air could enter the master. Then I only have to bleed the front as only small air pocket in the front lines. Works wonderful and Dave's work.

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Old 07-31-2019, 02:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Busbreath View Post
I don't know what RWAL or LSPV stand for. I blocked the brake pedal partway down when I removed the calipers so no air could enter the master. Then I only have to bleed the front as only small air pocket in the front lines. Works wonderful and Dave's work.

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aha, i see a problem. what do you mean by "block the pedal part way down?
I wonder if you have damaged the master cylinder and this is where the issues are.

Please describe exactly what you did and in what order.

Its easy to stop air getting into the master cyl, remove cap, fill with fluid, plastic bag across top, refit cap. you can remove brake hoses like this and then bleed all 4 corners regardless of which hose you had off.
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Old 07-31-2019, 03:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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No problem with the master cyl. I just pressed brake pedal part way down and blocked it so an open line can't drain the reservoir. The Piston blocks the path so no master bleeding is required.

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Old 07-31-2019, 03:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I believe RWAL is rear wheel antilock and I don't have that. Just the valve that senses load at the rear axle.

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