1990 Suzuki Sidekick with Camoplast UTV Snow Tracks Build Thread - Page 3 - Suzuki Forums: Suzuki Forum Site
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Old 11-26-2015, 08:44 AM   #21 (permalink)
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yeah. thanks. guess we will see. I figure I can take it all back apart and sell it again if needed. I still have the argo as backup and will not sell until this proves iteself.

most of the time the neighbors up the way have crushed the powder down with their snowcats. into a nice base and you are riding on a foot or so of powder. if its drifted, that stuff it like cement. but, if you break through the crust, that's where the trouble can start and you get stuck.

anyway, its all unknown. Not many people have these types of conditions to contend with.
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Old 12-05-2015, 02:48 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Nice gathering of info here bluebruin. Subscribing to this thread to see what happens.

I live in Arizona so not much call for snow tracks here. But I find the mechanics of tracks on a trackick fascinating.

Are you following anybody else's build threads who have done this?

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Old 12-05-2015, 06:57 PM   #23 (permalink)
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not really. I have a lot of researching to do, so I am sure I'll follow any in progress that I come across. I am more hoping for some that are complete that I can learn what worked and didn't.

1st order of business is to see if my sidekick is in good working order. I am not much of an engine mechanic. So, I plan to take it in for someone to look over. I don't want to invest in a car that is not relatively decent since I'll be putting in lockers. I can tell already, just from driving around in my snowy driveway I am going to need lockers. Compared to my Jeep Rubicon Unlimited its terrible in the snow..... I was stuck in probably 8 inches of snow and having all sorts of traction issues just driving around in my driveway... that doesn't happen in the jeep, even in 4high or 4low, with no lockers... So, we'll see. Maybe its just because it so light?

anyway, I installed the tow bar today, so I can drive it down to denver and drop it off at my mechanic to see what he thinks of it.
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Old 12-05-2015, 07:04 PM   #24 (permalink)
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pulled it into the driveway out of the snowy front field after digging it out a bit.


a look at the stock front bumper and grill. the guy I bought it from must have went to university of Colorado like i did, so I will go ahead the leave the buffs emblem


removing plastic bumper outer shell. took out foam and then saved both those pieces for later in case I want to reinstall them. If this project works out, I'll be tossing all this stuff, and cutting off all the brackets and other junk to reduce weight.



Here is the steel bumper underneath the plastic


The tow bar kit I bought on ebay for $54 with free ship. good for 5,000lbs.
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Old 12-05-2015, 07:17 PM   #25 (permalink)
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directions say tow bars must be mounted minimum 24" apart. Here is a photo of the maximum spread they are capable of.


i opted for somewhere in the middle of that. Here are the inside edges of the mounts


it could be easier in retrospect to weld some plates down lower below the bumper here.


the reason is that the bumper is "closed". they welded two sets of pressed steel into a tube/box type construction, so getting inside the bumper to hold your nuts while you tighten the bolts that hold the tow bar mounts in nearly impossible. I ended up putting bolts into the bumper and using a magnetic pickup tool to help be guide them out the holes i drilled. I put the nuts on the outside of the tow bar mounts. I had to use some of my own shorter bolts since the long ones that came with the kit would interfere with the quick disconnect pins.

the position of the factory holes in the bumper present a spacing issue. so I decided to line up the inside edge of the mount with my mark and put the bracket over one of the large holes.


like this


turns out there was some inner metal obstructions on my inside holes.. which was a pain. had to drill them out, pound them out with metal bars etc. big pain.

next issue was the width of the mount vs the contour of the bumper. not enough flat space to mount it solid.


so I made a metal plate as a backer for the mount to take up the gap




anyway, finally got it all mounted and done by dark...
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Old 12-06-2015, 12:57 PM   #26 (permalink)
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close ups of how the mounts turned out



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2009 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited - 6" lift, 37's, RTT Expo Vehicle
Argo 8x8 Amphibious with Snow Tracks
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Old 12-06-2015, 01:05 PM   #27 (permalink)
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close ups of how the mounts turned out



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Argo 8x8 Amphibious with Snow Tracks
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Old 12-06-2015, 03:15 PM   #28 (permalink)
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hooked up. we'll see how it tows when I have a chance to go test it out.
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Old 12-06-2015, 11:58 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I can not see the last few pictures, but from the drift of the earlier pics, you are bolting the towbar to the front impact bar.

Are you doing anything to reinforce the little bolts that hold this impact bar to the frame?

I do not think the impact bar is designed to pull the car. The small bolts are designed to hold the bar in position on the frame for a compressive impact, and I doubt they will handle the stress of pulling the car... for very long anyway.

Without any reinforcement, I suspect you'll likely pull the front bumper (impact bar) right off the frame. most likely at a bad moment.
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Old 12-07-2015, 09:37 PM   #30 (permalink)
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guess that is why they include a safety chain in the towbar kit..... hahahha just kidding. I am not sure, i know the tow bar is meant to mount to the "bumper" but since its just a piece of plastic with foam behind it that is not feasible. On my jeep I have solid steel bumpers that are tied into the frame. I am just not all that familiar with the sidekick yet. guess I will have to poke around under there and see what is bolted to what. I can always weld a plate to the frame and mount to that somehow. Is the 1990 a unibody or frame? Aluminum or steel?

Thanks
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