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Old 05-22-2015, 06:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Looks like I need an ECU I have a 1995 Geo Tracker 16V Auto. It's OBDI btw.


Anyone?
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Old 05-23-2015, 05:17 AM   #12 (permalink)
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First: Can you confirm what you are actually driving. Your title says 1996, your signature says 1995. Which is it??
Second: How have you determined that this is an ECU, rather than a wiring problem. What tests have you run? The blue/black wire that feeds the F1 circuit runs throughout the car. As wiring is now an issue with these older cars, logic would dictate that the wiring needs to be checked first, rather than assuming that the ECU has some kind of short in it - normally the ECU does not present this type of problem.
Aqua has advise you of how to test this system with a tone generator (and not expensive to buy). If you prefer to do this old school, use a light wired into the F1 fuse socket (rather than going through a box of fuses). With the key on, light will be bright, as you have a short somewhere. Then begin to disconnect all the connectors that run off of this circuit. When the light dims, you have found the circuit where your short is located.
That blue/black wire runs through the main relay, to the idle speed solenoid, The EGR and EVAP vsv's, the torque converter relay, the distributor, the fuel pump relay, etc. The ECU is only providing a ground to these circuits.
With the light in place of the fuse, you won't keep blowing fuses and will be able to disconnect each circuit, one at a time, until the brightness of the light changes.
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Old 05-25-2015, 10:32 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bex View Post
First: Can you confirm what you are actually driving. Your title says 1996, your signature says 1995. Which is it??
Second: How have you determined that this is an ECU, rather than a wiring problem. What tests have you run? The blue/black wire that feeds the F1 circuit runs throughout the car. As wiring is now an issue with these older cars, logic would dictate that the wiring needs to be checked first, rather than assuming that the ECU has some kind of short in it - normally the ECU does not present this type of problem.
Aqua has advise you of how to test this system with a tone generator (and not expensive to buy). If you prefer to do this old school, use a light wired into the F1 fuse socket (rather than going through a box of fuses). With the key on, light will be bright, as you have a short somewhere. Then begin to disconnect all the connectors that run off of this circuit. When the light dims, you have found the circuit where your short is located.
That blue/black wire runs through the main relay, to the idle speed solenoid, The EGR and EVAP vsv's, the torque converter relay, the distributor, the fuel pump relay, etc. The ECU is only providing a ground to these circuits.
With the light in place of the fuse, you won't keep blowing fuses and will be able to disconnect each circuit, one at a time, until the brightness of the light changes.
1. Typo, it is a 1995 for certain.
2cnbj1865s6936562

2 CANADIAN BUILT 1
C CAMI/GM OF CANADA/SUZUKI J.V. 2
N CHEV MPV 3
B GVWR RANGE 3001-4000 BRAKE SYSTEM - HYD 4
J COMPACT CAB 4 X 4 5
1 1/2 TON 6
8 TWO-DOOR UTILITY 7
6 ENG OPT - L01 DISPL(L) - 1.6 CYL - L4 FUEL SYS - MFI PROD IN - JAPAN 8
5 CHECK DIGIT 9
S 1995 MODEL YEAR 10
6 INGERSOLL ON 11
6 OKLAHOMA CITY OK 11


2. Thank you so much for the informed post. My mechanic disconnected the swingeing harness for the injectors and then put the fuse back into FI with no pop, hooked it back up POP. We went through a box of fuses . After a lot of reading it seems that we toasted the ECU. But I will forward him your post and see if there is something else I am missing.


P.S. besides sending my ECU out for repair, what ECU can I run? It's OBDI 3 Speed Auto 4X4 but 16V so is it a very specific ECU? I am looking for a hot swap now and then I'll repair my broken one and keep as a spare that seems to be the best option for me ATM.

Thanks
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Last edited by umiami80; 05-25-2015 at 01:04 PM.
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Old 05-25-2015, 03:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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That's my ecu. If anyone has one like it lent know if not I have to have it repaired.

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Old 05-26-2015, 05:26 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Presumably you're mechanic works with diagnostic testing, rather than a 'looks like' scenario. If not, find another one. There is no need to go through a box of fuses, if you use a light in place of the fuse. If your mechanic doesn't know how to do this, find another one. And 'looks like' is not the way to diagnose an ECU - note that most of the core return sites on ebay no longer deal in the 95 ECU, so it is in your best interest to see if there is actually damage to yours. The simplest way is to pull it from the car, and look for damage. However, it appears that no one is actually going through your harness to look for the short - whether you have incurred further damage by fiddling around in such a way, I can't tell, but your initial problem was with wiring or a connection, and you have not found that problem yet. So, even if you do manage to get another ECU, when you plug it in...boom, off goes the F1 fuse again. You MUST find the short or the problem circuit before you go any further. It's really that simple.

Edit: Note that there is a similar thread currently going on here - as with this thread, you MUST look for the wiring problem before going any further with 'replacement' items:
https://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...-goodness.html
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:27 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bex View Post
Presumably you're mechanic works with diagnostic testing, rather than a 'looks like' scenario. If not, find another one. There is no need to go through a box of fuses, if you use a light in place of the fuse. If your mechanic doesn't know how to do this, find another one. And 'looks like' is not the way to diagnose an ECU - note that most of the core return sites on ebay no longer deal in the 95 ECU, so it is in your best interest to see if there is actually damage to yours. The simplest way is to pull it from the car, and look for damage. However, it appears that no one is actually going through your harness to look for the short - whether you have incurred further damage by fiddling around in such a way, I can't tell, but your initial problem was with wiring or a connection, and you have not found that problem yet. So, even if you do manage to get another ECU, when you plug it in...boom, off goes the F1 fuse again. You MUST find the short or the problem circuit before you go any further. It's really that simple.

Edit: Note that there is a similar thread currently going on here - as with this thread, you MUST look for the wiring problem before going any further with 'replacement' items:
https://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...-goodness.html
The reason we did go through all those fuses was because it was 10PM, I just dropped my Waverunner off for repairs (the Intercooler rotted and was pissing water into the intake) and my truck literally just died. I had the fuses and we went for it to see if the short was obvious so I could get home.

He found the short already, we just need the ECU. It was in the wore loom near the fire wall.
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Old 05-26-2015, 02:52 PM   #17 (permalink)
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What circuit was the short in, wire colors, etc.? You should upload a photo of the ECU circuit board, showing the damage.
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Old 05-26-2015, 03:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Will do. I'll post everything after its repaired.
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Old 05-26-2015, 03:43 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Would perhaps be more helpful (to you) to post a photo of the damage to the ECU. You may find it somewhat difficult to find a replacement for the 1995 - at least as far as I know, many of the ebay suppliers no longer work on the 1995 ECU, for some reason. If you can find one in a junkyard, you may be lucky, but you will need the same model number as what you currently have. Otherwise, I think that Cardone or similar sells replacements, but rather expensive.
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:28 AM   #20 (permalink)
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*************UPDATE**************


I'm completely lost. The stupid thing wouldn't start after replacing the ECU ($50 for the thing, I'm keeping it as a spare). It would blow the fuses left and right and after a month f sitting I just decided to try starting it again, if anything just to check the battery and the fucker started right up. I let it run for 30 mins and even jiggled what I could jiggle in the wire loom to get it to stall, nothing. Dove it home, about 10 miles, never stalled. Started every time since?

These handing relays pictured below do get quite warm.

Is that OK?





Regards
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