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Old 12-19-2013, 12:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Oil Leak 88 Samurai

When I got my samurai I noticed it was leaking oil and I replaced the valve gasket on top of the engine block. It is still leaking oil. Looking at it looks like that its leaking from where the oil pan and engine connect. Wanted to get advice on it before I buy parts though. If the angle isn't good tell me and I can get a different one.
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:14 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You might need to clean things up a little, so you can see where the fresh oil is coming from. Pan gaskets usually don't just start leaking. No moving parts and once they are sealed the first time, they seem to stay sealed. I've got three of these Samurai, all with over 100k miles on them and none of them have a leaky pan gasket. Seals and distributors, yes. Pans, no. A leaky distributor housing will spread a lot of oil down the back of the engine, like in your pictures. It often looks like the valve cover is leaking, but it turns out to be the distributor housing, instead. There is a rubber O ring, between the head and the housing, that shrinks and lets the oil seep out.
Leaks in the front, are usually the front crank seal, or, the cam seal: oil seeps out of the timing cover and runs along the pan gasket.
I don't see any real evidence of a leaky rear crank/main seal. Those drip out of the bell housing drain, which is fairly clean on yours.
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Old 12-30-2013, 11:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Checked out the distributor area and there's a lot of oil. Here are some pictures. Also how would I take it apart to replace the gasket?
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Old 01-01-2014, 07:13 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Get the fsm!

Have you downloaded the FSM, as suggested in another thread? You really should, if you plan on doing ANY of your own maintainance and repairs. It has 99% of the information you need, to work on your Samurai.

To fix this leak (if, that's where the oil is actually coming from), you'll have to remove the distributor from the housing, and then, remove the housing from the head.

First, clean the area around the distributor attachment/adjustment bolt and the housing, of grime and oil.

Mark the position of the dristributor, in relation to the housing, with a Sharpie pen, or, some other marking method. Put a locating line on the distributor mounting flang, continuing onto the housing, where the distributor bolts to the housing.

Next, remove the dristributor cap. Mark the location of the rotor, in relation to the distributor body. I find the silver Sharpie pens work great, for writing on black plastic and steel parts.

Now, the dristributor can be removed from the housing, by disconnecting the wiring and removing the attachment bolt, near where you should have made some locating marks. The marks you made will help you to reinstall the distributor, without guessing about where it is supposed to be set (try not to erase them). I've done this many times and usually get the timing back to exactally where it was, before I started.

After you pull the distributor out of the housing, you can remove the housing, from the head. There are three bolts, on the back side of the housing, that secure the housing to the head. Remove the bolts and pull the housing off the head. A little oil will drain out of the housing. You'll see the camshaft drive gear for the distributor, sticking out of the back of the head.

There is a thin O ring, in the mounting face of the housing, that you need to replace. It dries out over time, shrinks and leaks. There is also an O ring on the distributor shaft, that you can replace at the same time.

Carefully clean out the oil ring grooves and install the O rings. Don't gouge the aluminum, or, you'll be doing this all over again. A little bit of thick grease in the housing O ring groove, will keep the O ring from falling off, while you're putting it back together. Suzuki suggests pouring a couple of ounces of oil into the housing, after you install it on the head, before inserting the distributor. This is because it takes awhile for the oil to get splashed into the housing area, after its emptied. Reassemble everything in the same order you removed it, lining up the marks you put on the distributor housing/distributor/rotor, when you took it apart. The rotor will turn (because the gears are angle cut), as you drop the dristributor into the housing, so, you'll have to anticipate this, to get the marks in the right location, as you put it in. BE CAREFUL NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE THREE HOUSING BOLTS! The head is aluminium and you will strip the threads, if you go all gorilla on them. (Get the FSM, for torque specs)

tighten the dristributor adjusting bolt, plug in the wiring and if you did it right, it will start and run the same as it did, before you took it apart. Check the ignition timing, with a timing light. Most of the times I've done this, the timing was right on and needed no adjusment.

Ok, I only went into detail on this, because I was up early and kind of bored.

Get the FSM.
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default got the fm

I got the FM and was cleaning it up like you said I took apart the distributor and the gasket looked good. (Cleaned it up a bit now it starts better)I saw this black circle looked like it was build up so I was trying to get it iff then it broke and leads into my engine (tell me if I'm wrong) I found my leak (and got a bigger one) is it fixable?? If so what would I get?
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstonmp View Post
I got the FM and was cleaning it up like you said I took apart the distributor and the gasket looked good. (Cleaned it up a bit now it starts better)I saw this black circle looked like it was build up so I was trying to get it iff then it broke and leads into my engine (tell me if I'm wrong) I found my leak (and got a bigger one) is it fixable?? If so what would I get?
That is the transmission. You found the cover for the visual inspection portal where you can see the flywheel. It allows you to set the timing at the flywheel.

This isn't a hole that will leak. You can get a replacement cover, or for now just keep junk out witha piece of duct tape until you CAN replace it.

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Old 03-07-2014, 08:16 AM   #7 (permalink)
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In case any else also uses this thread for instructions on replacing the gasket, bolt torque spec for the 3 dist. housing bolts is 6 - 8.5 ft-lbs.

Super easy fix, unfortunately for me judging by the smoke pouring out of the exhaust I think I also have a head gasket ready to be replaced.
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Old 03-07-2014, 08:33 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdrobinson21 View Post
unfortunately for me judging by the smoke pouring out of the exhaust I think I also have a head gasket ready to be replaced.
Usually, you'll also have symptoms of overheating, with a blown head gasket. Do a compression test, before jumping to conclusions. A gasket leaking between two adjacent cylinders, will give you low readings on those two cylinders. A leak between the cylinder and water jacket, might give you a low reading, but will give you overheating problems, as the combustion gasses leak into the cooling system, pushing your coolant out the overflow.
A cylinder compression test, is the best way to track down the issue.
Either way, don't sweat it. These engines are some of the easiest to work on, that were ever made.
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Old 03-07-2014, 08:39 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azelgin View Post
Usually, you'll also have symptoms of overheating, with a blown head gasket. Do a compression test, before jumping to conclusions. A gasket leaking between two adjacent cylinders, will give you low readings on those two cylinders. A leak between the cylinder and water jacket, might give you a low reading, but will give you overheating problems, as the combustion gasses leak into the cooling system, pushing your coolant out the overflow.
A cylinder compression test, is the best way to track down the issue.
Either way, don't sweat it. These engines are some of the easiest to work on, that were ever made.
Ah I didn't know you could diagnose it like that, makes sense though. I'll be checking that this afternoon. Thanks for the advice!
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Alright I went to the store today and got the compression test kit, just finished running the tests. All readings taken at WOT

Dry: (in order from front of the engine to back)
1 - 122
2 - 121
3 - 117
4 - 122

Wet: (2 pumps motor oil on small hand pump)
1 - 142
2 - 150
3 - 152
4 - 158

How do you think that looks? Within the FSM 14.2 psi variation from cyl to cyl, not really sure what those readings can indicate though other than that thought.
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