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Old 10-12-2013, 11:16 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Engine overheats

Hi my name is idan and i am new in this forum/
my Suzuki JIMNY 2002 model automatic transmission 1300cc
After a long drive on the highway, I stop in traffic. Hand heat engine starts to climb to 103 degrees Fahrenheit. When I click on stand-up gas and reaches 3000 rpm. Working temperature needle drops.
Replaced, fan, thermostat, water pump.
Make prevent pressure tested the engine to withstand pressure
What could be the problem?

Thank you all
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Old 10-13-2013, 01:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default overheat

WE replaced the thermostat water pump radiator fan clutch and my samurai still overheated too..The mechanic just gutted out the thermosat and now it runs a bit cold
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Old 10-13-2013, 03:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Mate 103F is just a warm summer day here , your car is not overheating ,i drive mine around when that`s the base temp .Mine gets hot driving in winds.a cross wind from the tail seems to take its breath away
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Was 103F a typo? 203F is more realistic and still nothing to worry about. 103C is also realistic and a little hot, but not "critical mass" hot.
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Old 11-22-2013, 04:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default engine block test kit

my sammy was getting very hot on highway runs but ran much cooler on local streets so i changed thermostat and then the radiator but still had the problem. then i heard about a tester that you put on your radiator cap and fill that tester with a liquid. start it up and if the liquid changes colors you have gasses from the piston going thru the head gasket into the coolant and it will escape thru the test at the cap changing colors. I tried it and i had a head gasket going bad to which i pulled the head and changed the gasket...... the tester is a free rental at o'reilly auto parts but you have to buy the liquid to put in it.
I can now push my zuk as hard as i want and it never goes any higher than 1/4 way up the gauge.
Joe

youtube video of it in action
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Old 11-22-2013, 05:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm of the opinion that the majority of overheating problems with the zuke engines are head gasket related.
I can tell you this: the stock 88.5 radiator is a very efficient unit. I have been running one in front of my 2.0 Datsun conversion for over a year now. Never exceeds 190 on the slowest steepest crawls.
And on road. It's never over 180.
By the way . The muddy coolant you pulled from the radiator is in it's own right the best indicator of a head gasket leak. Fuel and oil mixed with glycol will be muddy. Remember you have an aluminum block and a brass radiator. Neither will rust...... I suppose you're watter pump impeller could rust , but not to that extent with out failure.

Last edited by Boxcar; 11-22-2013 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 11-23-2013, 01:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Just fixed my problem....The heater core was clogged up.
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:59 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sickmaniak View Post
Just fixed my problem....The heater core was clogged up.
This really makes no sense to me. The heater only circulates coolant, when the heater coolant valve is open. It only makes a difference to the overall cooling system function, when the heater fan is blowing air through the circulating heater core. You must have had some other problem, that you inadvertantly fixed when you unplugged the heater core, or, you use your heater on high, 100% of the time.
I have a Samurai, that has a leaking heater core. I bypassed it at the fire wall and the only difference it made to the system function, is that now its not leaking coolant (and my feet get cold).

ps: If, your "mechanic" gutted out the thermostat, I'd find another mechanic.

Last edited by Azelgin; 11-25-2013 at 10:06 AM. Reason: I is a pour speller
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Old 11-25-2013, 11:27 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Well Said
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