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Old 05-23-2013, 11:27 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 94 samurai timing belt and tensioner

So the water pump has started to leak and I am going to replace but want to do the timing belt and tensioner at the same time. I can find the belt but cannot find the tensioner. I have the vin # after 376 which requires the more expensive belt but there is no tensioner for after 376. Is there a difference or does one exist. Thanks for the help. I am trying to get it ordered today to do it this weekend.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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As far as I know the same tensioner is used on all model years.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That's what it is looking like. I am going to tear it down tomorrow and take the tensioner into napa and verify it against theirs. Also if anyone knows. What is the difference between the two belts. Is it the round vs square tooth. Or is there something else. One belt is 12 and the other is 39.99.
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpolson15 View Post
That's what it is looking like. I am going to tear it down tomorrow and take the tensioner into napa and verify it against theirs. Also if anyone knows. What is the difference between the two belts. Is it the round vs square tooth. Or is there something else. One belt is 12 and the other is 39.99.
Yes, the difference in the belts is square tooth (early numbers), vs. round tooth (later numbers).
Like was said, as far as I know all the tensioners are the same.
You should be able to find a complete belt and tensioner set at rockauto.com. If you buy from them, google for a discount code you can use. There are always ones posted and anyone can use one, as long as it is a valid code, and it will save you 5%.
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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So after tearing it all down it turns out that yes the tensioners are the same. Took mine into napa and matched it to the other years. So all is well no more leaks. Now on to the grinding noise in the tcase. Thinking needle bearings but only in fourth and fifth do I hear the noise especially on decel. Clutch in noise is gone. We will see.
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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So after tearing it all down it turns out that yes the tensioners are the same. Took mine into napa and matched it to the other years. So all is well no more leaks. Now on to the grinding noise in the tcase. Thinking needle bearings but only in fourth and fifth do I hear the noise especially on decel. Clutch in noise is gone. We will see.
It's probably not going to be in the tcase, if it only does it in certain gears. I would look at the tranny.
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Just for a little simple free test when your driving and it's making the noise step on the clutch just enough to stop the free play in the pedal(not far enough to disengage the clutch or slip) and see if the noise goes away..... If it does it's most likely the "Throw out bearing" as you would be putting just enough pressure on it to change the pitch.
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Just for a little simple free test when your driving and it's making the noise step on the clutch just enough to stop the free play in the pedal(not far enough to disengage the clutch or slip) and see if the noise goes away..... If it does it's most likely the "Throw out bearing" as you would be putting just enough pressure on it to change the pitch.
Joe
Umm, no.
With the clutch pedal up (clutch fully engaged), the TO bearing is not doing anything (if the clutch cable is adjusted correctly). The TO bearing does not touch the pressure plate fingers until you push the clutch pedal, and take the "free play" out of the pedal. Then that is when the TO bearing starts spinning.
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Old 05-27-2013, 07:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Umm, no.
With the clutch pedal up (clutch fully engaged), the TO bearing is not doing anything (if the clutch cable is adjusted correctly). The TO bearing does not touch the pressure plate fingers until you push the clutch pedal, and take the "free play" out of the pedal. Then that is when the TO bearing starts spinning.
I fully understand what your saying and that is true but when the fingers are not touching it i've had a few that just rattled on that shaft over the years and just touching on the pedal a tiny bit put more pressure on the bearings itself stopped the rattle/wobble.... sort of the same principle when you have a bearing going bad on an electric motor and you push the shaft a little bit it changes the pitch of the problem...... heck, it's just a free test that will take 5 seconds LOL ....and like you say it's likely not the TC but in front of it somewhere. put some magnetic drain plugs onall the units and see if they pick up any shavings which could be a tip off
Joe

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Old 05-27-2013, 08:05 PM   #10 (permalink)
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That's how the throwout bearing should work - sometimes it's not properly adjusted and behaves exactly like Joe describes.
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