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Old 01-30-2013, 08:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Questions about 1.3 engine rebuild

Hey guys I was wondering if someone could shed some light on a few issues I have been having with the engine I just rebuilt for my Samurai. First off I blew the front main seal on the interstate in the vehicle and lost a bunch of oil. When I got the truck home via flatbed I found low compression on cylinders 2 and 4 so I decided it was time for a rebuild. Being that I have never attempted a complete rebuild before I had the machine shop do most of the work and left myself with just the assembly. The cylinders were honed, block cleaned, the crank had to be turned, they also did the valve job and resurfaced the head. I was told that the cam was resurfaced as well and all new valves were installed. I chose to buy the rebuild kit through the machine shop as they offered me a decent price and quick shipping.

The assembly went fine besides nicking a few bearings, which I took them to the machine shop to be inspected and they smoothed them out for me. Note that these were minute nicks that I was just being picky about and are not likely to be causing any problems as I made sure to check the endplay on the crank and connecting rods as well as the oil clearances on all of the bearings and used Lucas assembly lube on all of them. I got the engine back into the vehicle added all the fluids, cranked it with the plugs out for a while, then installed the plugs and wires and tried to start it. I had some issues with the fuel pump not pumping but eventually got it to work so I am sure that the engine had enough cranks to build oil pressure. When I got it started I ran OK but still kinda rough so I adjusted the Weber and got it to idle. I did as the Haynes manual suggests and accelerated from 30 to 50 at full throttle and let the vehicle slow back to 30 with the throttle closed and repeated the process 10 times to set the rings.

The truck was stalling every once in a while so I took it to Xtreme Zuks and had them look it over with me. I was told that the machine shop set the valves for me however we discovered that they had twice the required clearance. After setting the valves the truck ran great but I noticed an oil leak on the drivers side of the oil pump. It looked to me that It was coming through the gasket so I took the oil pump off which destroyed the oil pan gasket, so I had to change that as well and I ended up breaking one of the oil pan bolts off in the process. I found some fine metal dust in the bottom of the oil pan is this normal? When I finished I found that I did not fix the leak because it was coming from the useless plug on the side of the DNJ oil pump and running down making it look like it was coming from the gasket. Never buy from DNJ/ Rock Auto, half the gaskets didnít fit, there was no identification info or inventory list and the oil pump leaked! Anyways I got it all put back together and sealed and started it and it ran pretty rough and since I didnít mess with anything besides the timing belt I figured that it was the culprit. I am thinking that I set the crank at TDC on the #2 cylinder instead of the #1. But now when I try to reinstall the belt the tensioner pressure turns the crank clockwise past TDC, which I had no problem with before. Also I was told that loosening the valves as the Haynes manual suggests when installing the timing belt is not necessary so I left that part out is this a problem? I may have rotated the crank counter clockwise a bit when removing the sprocket bolt to remove the oil pump, which the book states not to do is this a big issue? Also, all but the #1 plugs were left in cause the manual does not say to remove them should I have? Will any of the above have a detrimental effect on the engine? Also I was told by the guy at Xtreme Zuks that I should have added zinc additive to my oil which was the first I had heard of this, and I specifically asked the machinist if there was anything like this I had to do. I have only put 30 miles on it so far and I have since got some to put in when I have all that problems fixed. How much will not doing so affect the head? Will I have to reset the valves after I have the timing belt reinstalled? I am going nuts over all these complications so if someone can answer a few of these questions I would greatly appreciate it.

Some things I learned from rebuilding my first engine.
-Never buy the DNJ rebuild kit
-Xtreme Zuks told me that Suzuki changed the torque specs on the crank and cam sprocket bolts to 90 ft-lbs and you are to use red locktite on them.
-Use blue locktite on the timing belt tensioner bolt and red locktite on the pulley bolt.
-Use permanent red locktite on the Weber carb adapter studs, plain red does not seem to work, I got the stuff from Harbor freight and it worked great.
-If you need to make a new gasket for the Weber adaptor use the expensive material from NAPA not the stuff from Ace hardware.
-Just tighten the oil pan bolts do not torque them to the specs in the Haynes manual you will crush the gasket.
-Ultra Grey High Torque is by far the best sealant to use
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You probably could go for years with out using any zinc additive with out any problems 30 miles won't make any difference. If all you did was remove the and replace the timing belt there should be no need to reset the valve clearances but it won't hurt to check anyways.

In the future when you have an engine rebuilt for you check the valve clearances yourself before you start it even if they say it is right it is your engine and it is always good to double check there work.

In the past when I rebuilt an engine I would put cheap oil in it first and run it around the block then drain the oil back out of it and fill it with your preferred brand. They may not have got all the shavings from machining out of the engine and a short run then oil change will clear a lot of stuff out.

At 500 miles do another oil change (might see more shavings) and re-torque the head bolts. While you have the valve cover off check your valve clearances again.
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