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Old 08-30-2012, 07:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 87 sammy carb / timing issue

more of an information post I have an 87 sammy carbed and was running into issues with the fuel ratio and high idle and fouling plugs and timing. back ground before work was: timing was 19 degrees advaced to run right and not foul plugs, (i know this is bad thats why i fixed it) also the throttle cable was tight as H$LL.

So : I loosened the throttle cable so there was a little slack in it and then found a mixture screw beneath it so i set the timing to about 4 degrees or 5 degrees advanced with no vacume advance let the throttle stay with its slack in it and turned the mixture screw all the way out and then turned in untill the idle came down to about 1000 rpm. it runs like a champ now no choppy start no over fueling problems no fouling the plugs just a notice to those who are looking to do carb swaps this was a much cheaper alternative and just took lots of cussing and frustration to find the mixture screw and finally realize the throttle was way too tight and the timing was way off.

new rule of thumb start with the basics and work up from there got to make sure everything leading up to the carb is right before anything will work right.
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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this is what i did to mine a few months ago. runs mint ever since.to hell with carb swaps.i rather keep it all original.my cable wasnt tight but i did everything you did to yours too.plus cleaned out the egr,replace 14 feet of vacumm hoses.pumped up 35psi of air in the tires.full tune up parts and i get 30-35 mpg city 40-40 highway.stock air filter too.soon a k&n filter and front alignment.
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Old 08-31-2012, 07:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks yea I think vacumme hoses are next I pulled a few that weren't even being used and plugged but I haven't gotten a chance to test run it on the road and I have a question for you when you say high way mpg how fast can you get yours going I think I may have a transmission /transfercase issue limiting me to only about 55 top speed
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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most the time 65 mph.can do 80 mph at 4,200 rpms. give or take on rpms.all stock gearing. stock trasfer case stock tranny stock diff.i dont stay at hi speed 80 mph too small of a truck and light unsafe.stay at 70 75 sometimes.but mainly 65mph.safe.minen is a 1987 jx convertible too.
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Old 09-06-2012, 04:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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so i finally got to test drive it out on the road. I got it up to speed fine and then the problems returned. It feels as if the carb is starving for fuel or being over run with too much air for the throttle position. I adjusted the air mixture screw to adjust the idle and the throttle cable has just enough play in it so it idles at about 1,000 rpm. wondering if my choke plate is opened too much during driving.

I got it home by when it started to die and choke out i threw it in neutral cut the key off then back on pumped the gas pedal twice then started it and ran it a little while longer got up as much speed as i could then repeated. any help ?
also i pulled my plugs and they are pretty white, which means either running hot lean fuel mixture or vacumm leak. is there a way to check for vacumm leaks? or should i just go around the intake and carb with hoses and plugs and check everything?
thanks
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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One way to check for leaks is to have the engine warm and running. Spray WD-40 around the base gaskets manifold gasket and vaccume hose ends. If the RPM's change it usually signals a leak is there.
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:22 AM   #7 (permalink)
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tie strap the choke open. i did it to my 87 and left it like that full open runs fine ever since.they tend to stay stuck closed.choke up engine and performance.there controlled by coolant to open when hot and close when cold.gonna have to pump it alot in the mornings but so what it will start and run all day long just fine. once warmed up you dont need to pump the gas pedal as often maybe 2 or 3 times at every start up.
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zooki4x4 View Post
One way to check for leaks is to have the engine warm and running. Spray WD-40 around the base gaskets manifold gasket and vaccume hose ends. If the RPM's change it usually signals a leak is there.
I like the idea ill do this next chance I get and ill let ya know results I kinda wanna fix the card rather than tie the choke open in all honesty but if it works then I know how to fix my problem if it ever happens again thanks for the info guys I hope it all works
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Old 12-17-2013, 02:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default maze of vacuum lines

I too am running an 87 Sami...........1.3 liter. This one has been a frame off restoration and i am well in to the reassembly stage. Motor has been totally rebuilt by the boys in the Lordco Performanc eshop in Maple Ridge. I'm anxious to flash up this new engine but I'm kind of stuck/amazed at all the vacuum requirements. Another question I have is , just how important is that warm air hose from the exhaust manifold to the carb?
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