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Old 08-25-2012, 05:49 AM   #1 (permalink)
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i bought a new samurai 89 1.3 carb

the 4l and the 4h does not work properly i raised the car on 4 jacks and turned the 4x4 on ...

the front wheels runs slower than the rear wheels

so i removed the front axle 3rd member and i counted the teeth it was 41/11

and the rear tooth count is also 41/11 so where is my problem

the tooth count is the same i checked the Tcase it functions properly i

removed the drive shafts and checked the T case the front and the rear

drive shafts rotates the same speed

there r numbers stamped on the 3rd member the front one is KN7 8 5 28 the 28 is in a circule

the rear one is KN10 8 5 30 the 30 is in a circule


so please if any body know whats is my problem


thanks all

Last edited by evooo; 08-25-2012 at 06:41 AM.
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:24 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Are all 4 tires spinning? Same speed? If the bearings are dragging a little on one side it could cause the tire to rotate slower with no load on it (in the air). This causes the other tire (same axle) to go faster if you are still running stock, open differentials. This could make it look like that axle was running slower (or faster depending on the side you are looking at) than the other axle.
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Old 08-27-2012, 11:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
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what u said is true

but when i run the car on road the front tires make sounds like they are braking

and even at slow speeds

please help me ,
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Old 08-27-2012, 11:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Ok, first things first...
Unlock the front hubs before you do any (more) damage.

The tooth count shows that they are the stock gears (3.73:1) and they are the same.
If the driveshafts coming from the t-case are truly rotating at the same speeds then there shouldn't be a problem there.
The problem lies between the front 3d member and the tires. Several possibilities.

-snapped axel shaft on one side or the other - axle binds and slows/stops tire revolution. sometimes accompanied by banging or clacking.
-bad bearings on one side and/or the other - same binding, but not as harsh.
-bad birfield joint(s) - same sounds and effects as broken axle shaft. Also may be harder to turn steering wheel.
-bad locking hub(s) - While not as jarring as a broken axle or birf, it will slow the wheel and get hot to the touch.

All of these issues can be verified by disassembly of the front axle and end components. I would look at the hubs first (after unlocking them) because they are easiest and will allow the front tires to free-wheel after cleaning them up. The expensive stuff (gears and shafts) can snap if you try running in 4wd on the street, especially if something is causing the tires to turn at different rpm's.
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Last edited by Billjohn; 08-27-2012 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 08-27-2012, 11:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Are you running on the road in 4WD?

If you are - first - that's "normal" - and - second - you shouldn't be.

With any four wheeled vehicle, the four wheels turn at different speeds as the vehicle negotiates a turn - the front wheels must travel further & rotate faster than the rear and the wheels on the outside of the turn also do the same - this means the outside front rotates fastest and the inside rear slowest.

On a 2WD vehicle the front (for FWD) and rear (for RWD) differentials permit the different rotational speeds, and 4WD vehicles designed for use in 4WD on road will have a center differential or a viscous coupling unit that allows the front & rear ends to rotate at different speeds - the Samurai is not designed for this - it's part time 4WD, and if used in 4WD on a hard surface you will experience drive train "wind up" which can damage the drive train.
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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My comments above are based on straight line driving.
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Old 08-27-2012, 01:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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so your saying not to use 4wd on road ever

because i used to have a mitsubishi pickup l200 4x4 and i drove it on road using 4wd L and H and it was normal

so cant drive my sami on road with 4wd
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm saying not to drive in 4WD on a hard, dry surface - if the road conditions require it - then by all means do it, but, if you do it on a hard dry road, the likelihood of damaging the drive train is quite good.

The Mitsubishi L200 - at least the one I've driven - will also suffer from drive train wind up if driven on road in 4WD - however the one you had may be different. Some Mitsubishis are fitted with what Mitsubishi calls Super Select 4WD which does allow 4WD to be used on road - that system uses a viscous coupling unit to link the front and rear axles, you can use 2H or 4H on road, but not 4HLc or 4LLc, these last two "lock" the VCU and if used on road, drive train wind up will occur.
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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thanks very much for your information

you are the best

thanks
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