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Old 07-06-2012, 07:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Need to balance driveline, or not?

Ok guys, I pulled a stooge. I have an 88 Samurai and I am in the process of putting a clutch in. Problem is: when I removed the drive shafts, I did not mark them.......

Yeah........

What to do? My idea is to take them to a place here in Tulsa that will spin check them for balance. Thought I would replace all of the U-joints while I'm at it. Theye will do it cheap, and I would not have to worry. I bought an excellent used T-case, so I already had the shafts off.

Is it really a big deal to mark the flanges so that they can be put back exactly as they were?..... The Haynes manual says it is.

What do you guys say?

Many thanks!
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you have pulled the shafts apart, look closely at the splined ends. There is a dot (pin hole) that shows what splines to line up.
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Old 07-09-2012, 09:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
If you have pulled the shafts apart, look closely at the splined ends. There is a dot (pin hole) that shows what splines to line up.
I never would have thought to look and see. I just assumed that there would be no way to tell.

Thanks Billjohn!

This place is invaluable!

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Old 07-10-2012, 07:14 AM   #4 (permalink)
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If the "dot" thing doesn't work out for you...drive it and if you HAVE a vibe, just mark & turn (re-clock) the flange make-up and try again. You may have to do this several times in order to find the original "sweet spot".

And if you tackle the "U" joints, mark the relative positions of the yoke and shaft before you disassemble to prevent getting THEM out of synch.
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:33 AM   #5 (permalink)
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You have to make sure the U-joints are 'in phase'. What does this mean? It means that they should be in exactly the same position at both ends of the shaft. Here is a pic that shows (sort of) how the angles need to compliment each other to allow synchronized movement at the front and rear of the shaft. I know, I know... this is a single shaft without splines, but I couldn't find another pic righ away. The idea is the same.


If a splined shaft gets pulled apart, it is important that it go back together so that the u-joints line up like the pic. The dots on the splined ends make it easy.
Now this is for a stock Zook shaft, for those folks that have upgraded to CV shafts it is a whole different set of rules.

...and no. You don't have to mark the diff or t-case to make sure the yoke gets bolted on exactly the way it came off. This is a 4wd vehicle with a transfer case... the front and rear shafts are never going to be (or need to be) in 'synch' with each other. Once the t-case gear lever is shifted, it would change the rate and there goes any synchronization.

Just keep the u-joints in phase and you will be good.
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:41 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Bill. I don't think that he "pulled the shafts apart" (yet).

He just unbolted the flange end without first marking it's relative position flange to flange. Right?
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:44 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Ahhh.
I guess I am just thinking too far ahead. I remember when I first pulled mine off and I pulled it apart to get it out of the way. THAT was a lesson learned...
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:47 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Me too!
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Ahhh.
I guess I am just thinking too far ahead. I remember when I first pulled mine off and I pulled it apart to get it out of the way. THAT was a lesson learned...
Yes, I did indeed! I guess I forgot to mention that, but I did do exactly as you say Billjohn. Pulled the splines apart to get them out of the way!
That pictures says a lot to me.

Thanks!
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