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Old 05-05-2012, 09:20 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 88 Samaurai won't go into 4-L0

Hello everyone, Noob here!
Just got a really good deal on a 88 Sami, but can't get it to go into 4-lo. When I try pushing down to 4-Lo, I start to hear grinding of gears, so I do not proceed. Virtually no rust at all an the truck and it drives well otherwise. (except the slack in the tranny shifter which I hope to remedy with the new bushing)
Question: Could this be a T-case shifter seat problem?

Thanks for all of your replies in advance.

This looks like the place to be!
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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How does the shift sheet look (that bushing)? Its easy to get to from inside the cab

Does your shifter knob have the shift gate on it? Its a strange shift gate, most unlike a traditional truck. When I first got mine it was quite a struggle until I saw a knob with the shift gate and realized how it was.

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index...fter-knob.html

Tony
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Old 05-05-2012, 03:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Try it standing still, with the tranny in neutral, clutch in....Boxcar...
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Old 05-05-2012, 04:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
How does the shift sheet look (that bushing)? Its easy to get to from inside the cab

Does your shifter knob have the shift gate on it? Its a strange shift gate, most unlike a traditional truck. When I first got mine it was quite a struggle until I saw a knob with the shift gate and realized how it was
.

Yes, caseyjones955, it looks exactly like that one. I try putting the trans in neutral with the clutch in, and moving the lever in the direction of the pattern.

I haven't had time time to pull the boot and shift out yet, but I do have the complete kit coming from 4X4 LowRange (transfer seat(sheet) and shifter bushing.

I'm hoping that's all it is. Since I work 12 hour shifts at the hospital, I thought I would wait until the kit comes in and do them both on my day off.

Could it be something else?

ALSO, I just remembered: There is a shudder or vibration after shifting and running through 2nd gear. But not 1st, 3rd, 4th or 5th???.... U-joint?
Thanks for the suggestions! Any others?
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Once you get the Tcase shifting and hitting 4L it would be interesting to see if your 2nd gear vibration is more parallel to your road speed or specifically 2nd gear.

I assume it still has the Samurai axles... Is it lifted? What suspension mods?

Tony
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yes it is all original. No mods or lifts. It's in really good shape and engine runs smooth, no burning or leaking oil. I just want to fix it up to be dependable.
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I was sort of headed toward driveline vibration... did you check all the U joints and trans/xfer case mounts?

I know how much fun it is to roll around on the ground after working a few 12 hour shifts in healthcare. I feel your pain!!

Tony
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Does it have locking front hubs ? Does it have adequate oil ?
Try putting everything in neutral. Hubs unlocked or if fulltime, be sure there is no pressure to roll back or forward. Leave the brakes off (both 4 wheel and E)
If it has not been in 4Lo or any 4 configuration for a period of time, so that the whole shift device is dry of oil it may be just binding until the lubrication gets up into everything around the shifting mechanism.
Once saw one that had sat outside for more than 10 years, had the same problem you describe. New shift sheet and reassembled with copious gear oil, shifted as expected after a few go rounds, in, out, in ,out.
Do this with all 4 wheels on gravel or sand. NOT on pavement or concrete. There must be allowance for slippage or all of it will bunch up and bind to the point where damage could occur. (but you knew that already)

Last edited by arlo; 05-06-2012 at 11:19 PM. Reason: need to add for clarety.
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Does it have locking front hubs ? Does it have adequate oil ?
Try putting everything in neutral. Hubs unlocked or if fulltime, be sure there is no pressure to roll back or forward. Leave the brakes off (both 4 wheel and E)
If it has not been in 4Lo or any 4 configuration for a period of time, so that the whole shift device is dry of oil it may be just binding until the lubrication gets up into everything around the shifting mechanism.
Once saw one that had sat outside for more than 10 years, had the same problem you describe. New shift sheet and reassembled with copious gear oil, shifted as expected after a few go rounds, in, out, in ,out.
Do this with all 4 wheels on gravel or sand. NOT on pavement or concrete. There must be allowance for slippage or all of it will bunch up and bind to the point where damage could occur. (but you knew that already)
Thanks arlo! I tried that and I still could not get into 4-LO. I can get 4-HI but thats it. I have a complete kit coming from lowrange off road. Even ordered a new bushing for the tranny shifter. It is supposed to take up some of the slack.(make the pattern tighter) I will post how the kit works out when it arrives.


Quote:
I was sort of headed toward driveline vibration... did you check all the U joints and trans/xfer case mounts?

I know how much fun it is to roll around on the ground after working a few 12 hour shifts in healthcare. I feel your pain!!

Tony
Well guys, I think I'm starting to get a clue. Finally got time to get underneath of the Sami and inspect. What I did see is: (1) the front input flange on the T-case from the tranny had one loose flange bolt, (a quarter inch backed off the threads!) The other 3 were tight. (2) The output to the front axel had one flage bolt missing! The other three were tight and (3) The T-case rear output seal must be shot. I knew it was leaking a bit, but did not know how much.

All U-joints appear to be tight.

Question: I was able to move the output flange on the T-case to the rear end up and down about 2-3 mm (maybe) Is this common with a worn out rear T-case seal?

Also, would the loose and missing bolts cause a vibration even if the other three were tight? The vibration seems to happen only when running through 2nd gear.

Should I use any special replacement bolt and nuts for the flanges? Stainless? Original OEM(hope not), or what?

I realize that my questions may seem elementary to most of you, but I truly appreciate your wisdom and experience.

This is a GREAT forum!

Many thanks,

Curt

Last edited by Spookyzook; 05-07-2012 at 08:18 PM.
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