Does it have locking front hubs ? Does it have adequate oil ?
Try putting everything in neutral. Hubs unlocked or if fulltime, be sure there is no pressure to roll back or forward. Leave the brakes off (both 4 wheel and E)
If it has not been in 4Lo or any 4 configuration for a period of time, so that the whole shift device is dry of oil it may be just binding until the lubrication gets up into everything around the shifting mechanism.
Once saw one that had sat outside for more than 10 years, had the same problem you describe. New shift sheet and reassembled with copious gear oil, shifted as expected after a few go rounds, in, out, in ,out.
Do this with all 4 wheels on gravel or sand. NOT on pavement or concrete. There must be allowance for slippage or all of it will bunch up and bind to the point where damage could occur. (but you knew that already)
Thanks arlo! I tried that and I still could not get into 4-LO. I can get 4-HI but thats it. I have a complete kit coming from lowrange off road. Even ordered a new bushing for the tranny shifter. It is supposed to take up some of the slack.(make the pattern tighter) I will post how the kit works out when it arrives.
I was sort of headed toward driveline vibration... did you check all the U joints and trans/xfer case mounts?
I know how much fun it is to roll around on the ground after working a few 12 hour shifts in healthcare. I feel your pain!!
Well guys, I think I'm starting to get a clue. Finally got time to get underneath of the Sami and inspect. What I did see is: (1)
the front input flange on the T-case from the tranny had one loose flange bolt, (a quarter inch backed off the threads!) The other 3 were tight. (2)
The output to the front axel had one flage bolt missing! The other three were tight and (3)
The T-case rear output seal must be shot. I knew it was leaking a bit, but did not know how much.
All U-joints appear to be tight.
Question: I was able to move the output flange on the T-case to the rear end up and down
about 2-3 mm (maybe) Is this common with a worn out rear T-case seal?
Also, would the loose and missing bolts cause a vibration even if the other three were tight? The vibration seems to happen only when running through 2nd gear.
Should I use any special replacement bolt and nuts for the flanges? Stainless? Original OEM(hope not), or what?
I realize that my questions may seem elementary to most of you, but I truly appreciate your wisdom and experience.
This is a GREAT forum!