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Old 05-03-2012, 10:40 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Where is the best place to buy body fasteners?

After needing to dremmel slots to remove a bunch of body screws I would like to replace them with new OEM or socket(allen to torx) pan head screws. Has anyone bought fasteners from on line dealerships or had success replacing the fasteners with something else? I found some of the screws (mounting the headlight basket) at home depot in stainless phillips head but that was it.

Thanks.
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Metric socket products - Bolt Depot

I bought 100 of these to replace all the screws for the doors, tailgate, rollbar, etc
Metric socket button head, Stainless steel 18-8, 8mm x 1.25mm x 20mm - Bolt Depot. Just make sure to use either loctite or anti-seize to reduce corrosion on the threads when bolting into dissimilar metals.

Other common sizes are 6mm and 5mm, which I find at Ace Hardware and sometimes Lowes.
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If you have an ACE Hardware nearby, check them out. Mine (and others) has a TON of funky fasteners like those.
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hey Haptown, Did the socket button head screws have the head diameter you were looking for? The stock door and tailgate hinge screws have a 11/16" head on them. To me that is what I call a Truss head or wide pan head. If not did you just use a washer to make up the difference? Thanks for the info.
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Old 05-03-2012, 04:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Here are a couple of images where I have used the button socket screws on the tailgate hinges. Will be replacing the hinges as they are so worn out that I have about 2" of play at the latch end, but the closeup image of the hinge gives you an idea of how much smaller the head of the screw is compared to the OEM one. The head is about 1/8" smaller than the original.



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Old 05-03-2012, 04:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Good to know. I figured the screws would have a smaller head. I'm waiting for a dealer to call me back from TX to let me know if they can get the stock pieces. I'll most likely end up going with Bolt Depot or someone like them. Shipping is almost the same as the cost of the screws I put in the cart!

Thank you. Now, if someone can just answer my alternator pulley question...
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Old 05-03-2012, 04:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Due to the shipping charges, that is why I went ahead and ordered 100 and would never need to buy that size again. I counted 38 that needed to be replaced for just that size.
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hey Haptown,

How did you get the original tailgate screws to come out? I found a near perfect replacement tailgate, but I can already see before starting, that it is going to be a JOB getting the orig phillips screws out.

Thought I'd ask you first, before I go strip and ruin the whole wretched mess!!

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Old 05-07-2012, 02:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
How did you get the original tailgate screws to come out?...
Removing the screws and bolts from a Samurai is common problem. Suzuki uses threadlocker which makes the job difficult. Heat is commonly applied to first soften the OEM threadlocker. This is a very popular subject and by searching you will find as many opinions and approaches as there are posters (many). RoadlessGear has a clever tool that you may find useful. I ended up welding a nut to the Phillips head screw after the impact wrench broke off the Phillips bit in the slots.

Although I prefer stainless, most common stainless is not up to even US Grade 5 (metric class 8.8) strength. Where it matters (e.g. front hub bolts), the special high-strength stainless from ARP is even stronger than US Grade 8 (metric class 10.8). I found most of the ARP product line at: TotallyStainless.com
Stainless tends to gall, so threadlocker or anti-seize is indicated. Cheap copper anti-seize is not suitable for stainless. Instead, you can use the high-temp nickel anti-seize.

Last edited by Merlin93; 05-07-2012 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:29 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I second the heat. I twisted 3 #3 Phillips impact bits before I tried my torch (AKA heat wrench) You may or may not burn the paint badly but you can always try shielding the flames from the hinges and bodywork with some flame resistant material. It did not take much heat to make a night and day difference in the ease of removal. Yea, Suzuki pretty much uses that thread locker everywhere...
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