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Old 05-01-2012, 08:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 105 Amp alternator question

I found a new CS130/105amp Alt for $65 which is a bit cheaper than the places that sell the alternator with the belt and connector. My question is has anyone gone this route and just made their own bracket(or bought it) and installed the V-belt pulley themselves? If so where did you source the pulley from?

Thanks. I'm considering this upgrade but don't really want to spend~$150 for the complete kit.
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Ya I was wondering myself any help would be great.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Well I bought the alternator for $65 shipped, picked up a bracket for $25 and a pigtail for the alternator at napa for $3. So under $100 for double the output.
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Old 06-27-2012, 07:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Well done - sometimes you have to get your hands wet - speaking of wet though, you may find that the V belt is not up to the task if the alternator is actually delivering 100A - it may squeal, especially when wet.
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Old 06-27-2012, 07:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The alternator came with a computer printout of the units performance. The graph shows 25 amps at 1200 RPM and about 55 at 2000RPM. 100 amps is around 3500RPM. Until someone makes a dual ribbed belt main pulley, I will have to live with the V. But the inner ribbed pulley would have to stay narrow so the other pulleys stay in line. I wonder if different grades of belt will provide more friction to prevent slipping...

Last edited by 88ZUK; 06-27-2012 at 07:28 PM. Reason: terminology
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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There may be a slight misunderstanding there - I'm not questioning the alternator's ability to deliver the goods - if you care to measure the alternator output yourself, you will discover that even when turning at 3500 rpm, the output will be significantly less than 100A, because the actual output is going to be determined by the load and the voltage regulator, rather than what the alternator is capable of delivering.

The alternator output is typically highest for a brief period directly after the engine has been started, which coincides with the recharging of the battery to replenish the energy used to crank the engine.

With stock electricals, once the battery has been recharged, the alternator output will drop to - I would estimate - 6~8A during the daytime, it'll be somewhat higher at night, when the lights are on - depending on accessories, radio/stero, a/c, etc., it could be higher.

The simple truth is a stock Samurai rarely does need more than around 50A.

Now - let's talk about that "dual ribbed main pulley" - what exactly do you have in mind? A dual crank pulley? A dual crank pulley with multiple ribs?

Such things do exist and can be sourced from other Suzukis - a 1.3 Swift with a/c will have such a pulley (3 rib belts if my memory serves correctly), a 1.3 Baleno with a/c will have one with 4 rib belts, again if my memory is good - you will of course need to change the water pump pulley to match.
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Last edited by fordem; 10-03-2012 at 10:17 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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88Zuk do you have the model # for the CS130/105amp Alt and where did you get it, how did it work out for you any problems I got the bracket now just need to pick up the other pieces including a Alternator.
Also any pics of the wiring and a discription.
Thanks
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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105 amp, from a caddy.
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The little 55 amp alt from Suzuki just didn't handle the job well after the stereo and extra lights. I first cut and welded the stock alt bracket but then found it too rigid. I installed a bracket made by Steven Mathewson from up in Canada. The bracket flexes enough to stand the abuse the heavier alt can dish out.

The upper alt bracket (above right) didn't stand up to the abuse... so we played around on the C&C machines and came up with this massive engineering marvel. Talk about overkill! The 'motor side' portion is .5" thick and bolted into the head.

The threaded adjustment rod is 1" thick and it slides into a chrome-moly cross brace. The 'alt side' portion is based on a solid steel block that slides over the 'ear' on the alt. The bolt sandwiches the ear for a good grip.

A mill and a box of scrap steel can be a dangerous thing... but it worked.
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Old 11-25-2012, 11:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I did just as you did...
Went and bought an alternator (used, at a junk yard) after reading and learning about what I needed. Was all excited to get it installed and working.... when, I ran into every trouble I could. Even after getting all the right parts. Here's my write-up (in a long but VERY informative thread). Sorry, it's 3 posts to get the whole enchilada;

Zukikrawlers - View Single Post - GM alternator install
Zukikrawlers - View Single Post - GM alternator install
Zukikrawlers - View Single Post - GM alternator install
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