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Old 09-17-2011, 12:14 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default clunking noise after 10 minutes or so...

My 87' sami is stock except for the exhaust and its been running great. The only thing that is weird is that after I drive for about 10 - 15 miles it starts making a loud clunking noise. Once it sits and cools down the noise is gone again. This noise is difficult to trace, it is coming from around the engine area. I do have a noisy throw out bearing but this noise is not like that, it is a heavier sound, almost like something bumping. Weird. Anyone else ever experienced a similar thing?
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Here is a bit of info to add. Yesterday I was driving it again about 10 minutes down the road when the noise started. It was rather loud and worried me so I turned hard right into a parking lot to let it cool down and see if the noise went away, but when I turned the noise disappeared! How weird is that? Any clues to look for?
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Noises can sometimes be hard to trace. Can you, for sure, eliminate the two most common causes:
1) broken mounts (engine, transmission, T-case) and
2) bad U-joints (there are six) ?
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Old 09-22-2011, 11:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Is it constant clunk once it starts doing it, or just when accelerating or decelerating?

Sometimes old rubber parts like motor, transmission, and transfer case mounts get real soft after being around heat and start to flex more, allowing more movement than one might expect when tested cold.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haptown View Post
Is it constant clunk once it starts doing it, or just when accelerating or decelerating?

Sometimes old rubber parts like motor, transmission, and transfer case mounts get real soft after being around heat and start to flex more, allowing more movement than one might expect when tested cold.
This is interesting, I will check out all the mounts and u joints this weekend. I have been under there looking kinda good, would have noticed a broken mount I think. I will take a close look this time and maybe for just a weak mount not completely broken one.
Also the noise is not completely gone under different rpms except it starts usually just driving and if I come to a stop light, even at an idle it is doing it unless I increase the rpms to around 1200 then it goes away sitting still.
Thanks for the ideas.
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The way the mounts are mounted, you can't usually tell if they are broken or not unless the lift or rock the motor hard, push up hard on the tail section of the transmission, or lift up the transfer case. It is the driver side motor mount that is the one most likely to break.
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Haptown, thanks for that info. I will look good at it on Saturday. Is the one you mention usually the culprit a motor mount or? I could imagine the flywheel hitting or rubbing if out of alignment slighly.
Thanks again!
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Old 09-22-2011, 11:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If it is happening idling after it has warmed up, try putting the transfer case in neutral, transmission in gear (to quieten down the T/O bearing), and start checking the engine compartment and underneath to localize the sound. Use a short piece of hosepipe or even the cardboard tube from some paper towels to listen with. Check your fan to make sure that it is not hitting the shroud, check you exhaust system to make sure everything is tight and not hitting anything. If you are under the hood, you can rev the engine by just pulling on the accelerator cable at the carb.
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Old 09-28-2011, 11:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The mounts look OK. Fan is OK. What you said about the rubber softening up I think is true. The weather has cooled off some lately and the noise hasn't been their. I didn't drive it very far though, will take it out later this week. I also noticed a crack in the pan, right under the front passenger seat there is about a 6 inch split, got some flexing going on there and gotta figure out a way to reinforce that. Thanks!
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:16 AM   #10 (permalink)
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check tappett adjustment
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