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Old 07-10-2011, 12:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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if you have the rear drive shaft off and you have it in 4wheel high and the front hubs locked would it be ok to drive this way for short dist,. my thought is if towing an 87 samurai behind motorhome with the rear drive shaft off would you allways have to reconnect to drive the sammy. just a thought. i know they say the best way to tow is with the drive shaft disconected. i know you can tow with transfer in neutral and tranny in 2nd but than they say there is a tendancy to jump in gear than your engine is toast. any thoughts..... jj
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Old 07-10-2011, 12:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjacob2156 View Post
if you have the rear drive shaft off and you have it in 4wheel high and the front hubs locked would it be ok to drive this way for short dist,. my thought is if towing an 87 samurai behind motorhome with the rear drive shaft off would you allways have to reconnect to drive the sammy. just a thought. i know they say the best way to tow is with the drive shaft disconected. i know you can tow with transfer in neutral and tranny in 2nd but than they say there is a tendancy to jump in gear than your engine is toast. any thoughts..... jj
I was wondering same thing as I flat tow. In addition I been on the transfer case noise thread as well. When flat towing if the driveshaft is not removed both the front and rear drive shafts will turn. Kind of a bogus neutral! Dont quite get it. If its ok to tow this way, long distance. Its kind of like driving around all the time in 4wd high and just unlocking the hubs, wouldnt think that would be a good idea.
I think removing the drive shaft is better but I also hear just towing per manufactures spec. should not harm especialy if you got stock tiresize w no lift.
Havent heard the transfer case jumps into gear while towing.
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Old 07-10-2011, 01:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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thanks for the come back. i just dont see any reason you couldnt drive around with the reardrive shaft off and just put it in 4 wheel high and lock the front hubs. sounds logical to me but im not an expert. it sure would make towing a lot less worrysome. going to be taking my 87 zuke to colorado next month and i will be towing it behind my motorhome on a dolly. run out of money and wont be able to get baseplate and tow bar and brake set up for this trip.
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Old 07-10-2011, 05:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Im no expert either. But It seems like you should be able to tow that way. Mine came all set up for towing. My bar is just a basic cheapie, works good though and very easy not quite as conveinient as some of the fancy setups. We pull with a motorhome as well. As for Brakes we dont have them but heck its pretty light weight though.
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Old 07-10-2011, 05:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i will be towing 4 down but for this trip as i allready have a dolly and it has surge brakes on it thats how we will be doing it this time. im towing it with a 97 georgie boy 454. just got back from oklahoma last mounth and we took our daughter and her saturn and didnt even know it was back there.as far as the sammy i just got it and have been trying to get it ready for the trip. it has been a big project but it has been fun. just running out of money and time.hope to get tranny back in this week than i think we will be ready.
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Old 07-10-2011, 10:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I had the rear drive shaft forcefully removed once and after getting the rest of it out I was able to get it the 5mi's back home with just the front wheels powered so for an emergence it is doable.

it is just four bolts and less than 5 minutes to take off/put on the rear drive shaft so I would just park the motorhome at the camp ground and put in the drive shaft in and at the end of the trip take the drive shaft back out and put it on the dolly.
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I use a driveshaft disconnect from Trail Tough for flat towing. Not cheap but super easy when towing to just throw a lever and be driving then throw the lever back for towing.

http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?...mart&Itemid=53


Alot of people pull driveshafts or just unhook the one end at the diff and bungee it up.... just be sure to keep some extra bolts around just in case you lose one.
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Have flat towed my 87 Sami thousands of miles with my 87 VW Syncro. Just took the rear driveshaft off at the diff and wired it up tightly. Careful not to let it slip off the splines. Turned out the front axles at the hubs. Put the tranny in 4th and the T/C in faux neutral. Disconnected the battery at neg side. (so as to steer without steering wheel lock, key must be in the on position)
Be careful with the tires...I over inflate them. Less tire on the road. One time the rear right tire lost air and before it was noticed, the face of the tire was a road-gater and the warrantee was not good for it.
At destination 4 bolts and good to go.
Some take both driveshafts off at the diffs...just to be sure the bearings in the tranny and T/C survive, as the turning of the D/S will not lube the bearings.
There are cheap magnetic towing lights available, that can be compatible with most towing vehicles. Some just ductape enough lights to meet DOT standards. To secure the 4X4 to the VW a padlock instead of the bolt thru the towing ball hitch.
Some put a childs bike whip with a flag on the towed vehicle to make it visible inside the MoHo. Have adequate mirrors on the towing vehicle...not seeing the rig behind is not good enough. Have fun with your tow !!
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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No need to disconect battery I tow with key in ignition unlock the wheel but dont turn ignition on. As for removing the drive shaft most of my towing is under 100 miles if I stop I will start motor and run thru gears.
So is the info from suzuki wrong? 2nd gear and t case in nuetral without pulling drive shaft will that cause damage to countershaft bearings or not? It seems the manufacture would not recomend it if it causes damage.
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Old 07-17-2011, 10:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Towing the Sammy 4down is pretty easy as you guys already know. The manual is correct, 2d gear and t-case in N. It works most of the time with no problem. But hit a bump and it can catch and turn out to be a really bad day.

I learned the hard way. So I first dropped the rear driveshaft for trips. As long as the front hubs are unlocked, you don't have to touch the front driveshaft. I later installed other methods to make it easier. Driveshaft disconnect on the street rig and full floater rear axle with Warn lockouts for the trail rig.

You can drive on the front axle with the rear disconnected, but it will drive completely different as a front wheel drive vehicle.
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