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Old 04-02-2011, 12:20 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default The Do's and Don'ts of mounting seats!

Hello All,

I picked up a couple of seats out of a Toyota Echo today that match the interior in my Zuki perfectly, so I'm wondering that the do's and don'ts are in trying to rig up a mounting system for these seats...

Thanks,
David
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Old 04-02-2011, 02:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The easiest way I've seen is cut up some angle stock and drill holes that line up with the seat bracket and weld (or bolt) it to the floor. It usually gets em lower than using the drivers side stock mounts. (i'm tall so that was the first thing I researched. cause I have to stick my head out the side to see when the light changes at an intersection)
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Old 04-02-2011, 03:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If Mig welding, when welding to the thin sheet metal on the tub, make sure you use a thin gauge welding wire for mig welding body panels. and a low power setting. It's really easy to burn through the floor pan.

If bolting the brackets down, use large diameter "fender" washers to reinforce the hole and spread the stress out over a large area. It will keep the bolts from tearing through the sheet metal floor.

Make sure your brackets are lined up straight so that seat slides easy. My passenger side brackets are only a couple degrees out of paralell and I can feel a big difference in how the passenger and drivers seat slide.

Check to make sure you have room for the seat belt bolts on the transmission tunnel and the targa, They stick out a little bit and can be a hanging up point.

Make sure you have some room under the seat, don't bolt it directly to the floor. A lot of race seats and aftermarket seats are solid back/bottom and can be mounted right to the floor. If its a stock OEM seat off of another vehicle, then it's probably a spring and foam seat where the seat needs a little distance to flex in order to be comfortable. These seats are usually open on the bottom and water comes in, a little elevation will keep your seat from sucking it up like a sponge. Also moisture won't be trapped under the seat which will rust out the floor.

Paint all areas that you drill or weld, it's thin metal and rusts through really quick.
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Old 04-02-2011, 07:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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When I bolted mine to the floor, I used another piece of strap metal instead of the afforementioned fender washers because of the metal fatigue factor of the seats rocking when in use, especially on the trail. Just a little change but makes a big difference after the fatigue cracks appear. Make sure the back of the seat has enough room to allow clearance with the backseat floor.
If the seats have a recline feature check that out before you drill or weld.
Think clearance. Seatbelt clearance on the tranny tunnel can be mitigated with the stock S/B connectors. Once the seats are placed inside the Sami be sure you can close the doors with out that sandwich effect causing you to slam the doors. To lift them off the floor, box steel can replace angle iron.
Secure them adequately so they DO NOT rip out of the floor in the event of very quick stop or tumble. Better to stay inside on the seat than outside with the gravel skidding along tender parts, and the seat tied to your butt.
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Old 04-02-2011, 07:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the input guys. I'm going to print out this thread to make sure I keep all of this in mind. At the current time I've ordered about 20' of 1/4"x1 1/2" straight steel and I'm looking at making some adapters like the ones I've seen on the Internet.



Since the seats out of the Echo are only about 1/2" wider than the original Sammi seats its looks like I should have much of a problem with width, but the issue is going to be found in the wider distance between the rails on the Echo seats vs. the Sammi seats, but I don't beleive it is going to be a big issue once I get the adatpers made. The seats are going to sit about 1" to 1 1 1/2" inches higher than the original seats, but I'm not really that tall - only about 5'9" so I don't believe that is going to be a problem either (I hope), but I'll find out on Monday when I take the original seats out and start doing some real testing...

These are what the seats look like:





Thanks again,
David
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Old 04-02-2011, 09:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Dwcarr1,
It looks like you have things well in hand with advice, materials and visuals for the mounts. I responded to sohcneondriver with pics of neon seats in my 88 sammy in #12 of a "seat question" on 3/03/11. They might give another perspective.
game on - citizendan
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Old 04-02-2011, 10:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citizendan View Post
Dwcarr1,
It looks like you have things well in hand with advice, materials and visuals for the mounts. I responded to sohcneondriver with pics of neon seats in my 88 sammy in #12 of a "seat question" on 3/03/11. They might give another perspective.
game on - citizendan
I really like to looks of your install. I remembered seeing the picture, but I couldn't find the thread when I went to look for it, so thats for sending me the topic info. Unfortunetly the mounts on rails on the echo seats aren't going to be as straight forward as the Neon ones look. I'm actually doing to have to cut the mountings off of the rails and weld the rails to the new frames. But at the end of the day it should all work!

Thanks again,
David
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Old 04-09-2011, 12:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Well, I got it done. I had to cut everything out from under the new seats and had to weld together a couple of custom brackets to mount the seats, but I was able to use the original rails and didn't have to do any welding to the Suzuki. Only the rails and the brackets. The seats actually sit about 1" higher than the original seats, but that isn't a problem since I'm only 5'9" I kind of like the added height.

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Old 04-09-2011, 10:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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David
Looks like your hard work paid off. Nice job!
game on -citizendan
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