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Old 03-15-2011, 01:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Loosing Oil?

I've notice that my Zuki is loosing some oil, however, the spark plugs all look good and I'm not noticing any smoke out of the tail pipe and the engine really don't have any leaks. But I've also noticed that I'm getting oil pressures as high as 60 to 70 PSI. I was reading somewhere that a stuck PCV value can cause abnormally high oil pressures which result in blow back causing a loss of oil. So my question is - why should the normal oil pressures be and has anyone else seen anything like this?

Thanks,
David
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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According to my 88 manual oil pressure should be 48-60psi @3000rpm. So your reading seems a little high but could be your guage also. High oil press is not usually going to cause loss of oil unless it blows out a seal.
The pcv can cause oil loss if it sticks open and draws oil into the intake or if it sticks closed or plugs up can blow through vent or gaskets with crankcase pressure. The pcv valve is designed to draw oil fumes from the crankcase into the intake for emmisions. the valve closes when restrictoin increases such as when oil is being pulled into the system. If it is not working right you can have problems.
That being said, check the pcv hose for oil, it should have a light film but no liquid. Regardless I would install a new pcv.
Here is some advise; if it is not leaking it -it is burning it
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:56 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thank you, I'm going to pick up a new PCV valve today. I have a question about the possibility of it burning the oil. Yesturday I had a California Smog test done on it and it is allowed something like 150 PPM at idle and I forget what at 2500 RPM. At idle it failed and they said it is running rich, which makes me beleive it is the carb. However, at 2500 RPM it is only reading 15ppm which the guy said is extremely low. If it is burning it, could the readings be this low?

I'm just wondering...
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Assuming a 1.3 engine, the factory specification is 42.7~59.7 psi @ 3000 rpm warm. however, there is some degree of dependency on the oil you are using, heavier oils will show higher pressures, lighter oils may result in lower pressures. One perhaps important point - the upper limit is determined by the oil pressure relief valve and is not really critical.

If you're loosing oil, it can only be one of two things, you're leaking it or you're burning it - and the absence of smoke doesn't mean it's not being burned. About a year ago I did a complete rebuild on a G13 which had significant ring wear (dry compression was 90psi give or take, across all four bores), and was burning over a quart between changes every 3000 miles, and there was no smoke to speak of - you had to be driving behind me, and watching closely, and you just might see the slightest puff when I changed gear.

The PCV valve can contribute to oil consumption in some case, but I doubt that it does on these vehicles - it also has no impact on oil pressure, and oil pressure has no impact on blowby.
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:50 AM   #5 (permalink)
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yeah, oil pressure is the pressure that the oil pump is operating at and is affected by things like clogged oil galleys and high viscosity. Excessive crank case pressure is what causes it to blow past the gaskets, and worn rings will cause the blow by in the combustion chamber. So if it's dripping oil, then you have excess crank case pressure or worn gaskets. If it's burning it then you have worn rings, If the oil pressure is too high then a chemical flush of the engine may clear up some of the deposits blocking the galleys.

Which PPM's are too high on your smog report? HC or NOx?
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It failed with 223 PPM HC at idle - the max is 150. At 2500 RPM is was 15 and allowed 180...
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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wow that's pretty significant. The HC is from too rich mixture that results in partially burnt fuel entering the exhaust. I'd say its either the O2 sensor or possibly a restricted intake? Sticking choke, dirty air filter? Running too rich isn't going to be a clogged or restricted jet, and it's not going to be from a float hanging up. Another thing that can cause high HC levels is the MCV (mixture control valve) not functioning or having a delayed opperation. The MCV opperates on hard decelleration to lean out the mixture and prevent high HC levels when you let off the throttle to decellerate. That would still fall under the high speed test on the dyno.

NOx ppm elevations are from a too lean or missfire where unburnt fuel enters the exhaust, or from running the combustion chamber too hot. That's most often the problem with the samurai so at least you aren't getting any issues there. Those are usually the more expensive to fix as well.
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:21 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baratacus View Post
wow that's pretty significant. The HC is from too rich mixture that results in partially burnt fuel entering the exhaust. I'd say its either the O2 sensor or possibly a restricted intake? Sticking choke, dirty air filter? Running too rich isn't going to be a clogged or restricted jet, and it's not going to be from a float hanging up. Another thing that can cause high HC levels is the MCV (mixture control valve) not functioning or having a delayed opperation. The MCV opperates on hard decelleration to lean out the mixture and prevent high HC levels when you let off the throttle to decellerate. That would still fall under the high speed test on the dyno.

NOx ppm elevations are from a too lean or missfire where unburnt fuel enters the exhaust, or from running the combustion chamber too hot. That's most often the problem with the samurai so at least you aren't getting any issues there. Those are usually the more expensive to fix as well.
Baratacus,

I changed the O2 sensor and PCV valve yesturday and I changed the oil as well, but when I went to the parts store they cannot find a replacement for the MCV, so where can I find one?

I also bought a carb kit which I'm going to try to get in this weekend and I'm hoping to check the timing. The guy where I had it tested said the timing was spot on, but I was told that on these old vehicles they have to test it with a light just like we would normally have to do - but by looking at the vehicle it is obvious that the timing mark cover hasn't been removed on this Zuki in years. I know I'm shot gunning this thing, but I really need to get it done, but I'm going to be running out of funds really quickly if these things don't work, so thanks for you input. Hopefully these things will work, but if you or anyone else knows where to get a MCV I would greatly appreciate the input.

David
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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first test it to see if it's working or not. There is a one way valve between the MCV and the manifold. Blow into the grey side of the valve and air should pass through it. If it's clogged you can replace it with another one way valve from the autoparts store. I got a generic one for about 2 dollars. If the one way valve is ok, put it back on with the grey side facing the MCV. Once you know if the one way valve is working you can check the MCV itself. To check the MCV unit, hold a piece of paper right beneath it with the engine warmed up and running. Disconnect the small hose to the MCV and then reconnect it. The paper should be drawn up to the bottom of the unit. If air is not being drawn in when you do this proceedure, then you need to replace the MCV.

I don't know any parts stores that you can get one of these new. You may be able to order one from Hawks or from Suzuki John, but it's going to be really spendy. I'd check the scrap yards. This part isn't one that commonly goes bad, and a used one is most likely going to be just fine.
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Old 03-17-2011, 02:29 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baratacus View Post
first test it to see if it's working or not. There is a one way valve between the MCV and the manifold. Blow into the grey side of the valve and air should pass through it. If it's clogged you can replace it with another one way valve from the autoparts store. I got a generic one for about 2 dollars. If the one way valve is ok, put it back on with the grey side facing the MCV. Once you know if the one way valve is working you can check the MCV itself. To check the MCV unit, hold a piece of paper right beneath it with the engine warmed up and running. Disconnect the small hose to the MCV and then reconnect it. The paper should be drawn up to the bottom of the unit. If air is not being drawn in when you do this proceedure, then you need to replace the MCV.

I don't know any parts stores that you can get one of these new. You may be able to order one from Hawks or from Suzuki John, but it's going to be really spendy. I'd check the scrap yards. This part isn't one that commonly goes bad, and a used one is most likely going to be just fine.
Boy, no joke about the MCV!

Suzuki John => MIXTURE CONTROL VALVE...$300.00

Ouch - and I though a CAT would be bad news!!!

Well, I'll be testing the MCV tomorrow...
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