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Old 02-21-2011, 11:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Finally got a sammi! (And the problems begin lol)

First off, I'm so glad I finally got a samurai, I don't care what problems it has, I'll get them taken care of! Just glad to finally have one.

When I got it, this was the list of problems I had, in the order I need to fix them to get it to daily driver status (the ones further down aren't really necessary, just things I would like to do)-

1. Passenger side rear lights not working (wires cut and stuff is rusted)
2. Bad exhaust leaks from rust
3. Tapping (valves/rockers/lifters or whatever need adjusting?)
4. Some body damage (really just need to straighten up the bumpers a little)
5. Could stand to have a new top (rips)
6. Needs OTT steering (has a spoa lift)
7. Needs lots of rust areas cleaned up/patched
8. Leaks oil (rear main seal?) and burns some (not sure what I'll ever do about these two)

I didn't notice the tapping so much until I temporarily patched the exhaust with some exhaust tape. Even still, with all those things, it was "driveable".

After driving it around in the yard a little, now it's not. So the first thing on my list is now this-

When running, it won't go into gear, but when the engine is off it shifts fine. When it is in gear, engine running, it still pulls a little with the clutch pushed in. To me it seemed like sure signs of the clutch not disengaging all the way. After reading another thread on here, https://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...d-problem.html, I'm sure that is what is happening.

My question is, does this sound right to everyone else? I really haven't had a chance to look at anything yet, other than I noticed a piece of the the steel cable of the clutch cable was poking out through the plastic outer part of the cable, so I snipped it off thinking it might be impeding the cable's movement inside the plastic, but that didn't help. I drove this samaurai two and a half hours to get it home, no clutch problems. As soon as I took it out in the yard, it did this. Does anyone think it could have anything to do with the fact that I was harder on the clutch? (trying to climb some stuff, etc.) What I think is weird is that if the clutch was wearing out, and I was a litle extra hard on it, wouldn't it just not be grabbing enough, instead of too much? What do you guys think, and what are the first components to look at?

THANKS!!!!

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Old 02-21-2011, 01:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Congrats!

First things to look at:
1. Replace the clutch cable. If you see anything coming through that insulation then it is compromised.
2. Add a ground strap from the motor to the frame. The clutch cable may have been acting as a ground if the normal ground wire has been compromised. If so, the cable will heat up and the outer casing will lose integrity and collapse.

Those are the firstplaces I would start.
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Old 02-21-2011, 02:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billjohn View Post
Congrats!

2. Add a ground strap from the motor to the frame.
Oh that's right, I had read about the cable-acting-as-a-ground problem before, but had since forgotten about it. I'll be sure to check on that.
Also, another thing I was thinking about is the adjustment on the clutch cable. How often do you guys find that it needs to be adjusted usually?

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Old 02-21-2011, 06:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohcneondriver View Post
Also, another thing I was thinking about is the adjustment on the clutch cable. How often do you guys find that it needs to be adjusted usually?
Only when the clutch cable fails... Even when the clutch starts to wear, the adjustment to keep it perfect is negligable.
Get a Petroworks HD clutch and you won't see enough wear to worry about it.
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Clutch cable

Well, I went to tighten up the cable down at the transmission, and the adjustment was already taken all the way in, so I couldn't tighten it up any more. Then I noticed right there near the little rubber boot at that end the cable was frayed a bunch and there were wires going all over. So I ordered a new one and I'm gonna put it on tonight and see if that helps my problem.

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Old 02-22-2011, 11:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Clutch cable

Well, the clutch cable was the problem. It shifts perfect now and doesn't pull when in gear with the clutch in. The clutch just wasn't disengaging all the way. Since I literally just got this truck, this was the first time I'd really got a good look at it, and I found a new problem...
I had been noticing the past few days when I look at the truck it seemed like it was leaning to the right a little. I was starting to worry that the frame was twisted a little or something, but I figured it out tonight. Here's a pic-

That's the passenger front.
So now I'm wondering... what do you have to do to do that kind of damage? Will flexing the suspension at slow speeds do that? I figured maybe the shock mount, but surely not bend the leaf spring, right? I do know that they are the stock springs and shocks, so the shocks probably don't have much travel. (maybe, I don't really know)

Here's a couple more pics just so you guys can see how the trucks looks...



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Old 02-22-2011, 11:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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man, your daughter is way too young to drive... she almost took out that tree!

Nice looking rig, and cute kid too. If she's going to be riding back seat like mine do, I would recommend getting a rear or full roll cage. I put in the internal cage from petroworks. Installed in about 2 hours, You do have to paint it or cover it yourself though.


On the shock problem. When you convert to spring over axel you need to relocate the shock mount to get enough articulation out of the shock absorber. You either need to relocate the lower mount to the bottom of the axel where it used to be, or you need to relocate the upper mount higher using a shock hoop or shock tower. Setting your bump stops will also pervent a lot of problems like that one.
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:32 AM   #8 (permalink)
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haha...

Yeah I've been thinking about what to do for a cage but I haven't decided.

So, do you think that the shock bottoming out and bending the mount is what caused the bend in the leaf spring? I'm pretty sure the bend in the leaf spring is what is causing the truck to sit a little lower on the passenger front corner. Or were they both just caused by one instance of long/hard travel?
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Old 02-23-2011, 02:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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it's most likely occured with several hits. a constant hammering on it over a short period of time would be more likely to cause the spread of damage over a larger area like that. One single hit hard enough to do that much dammage would probably have sheered off the stud rather than bending the whole support/spring/shock unit. Why one side and not the other? Possible that there was a really heavy passenger, or hauling a heavy, uneven load. Could be he forgot to unlock that hub while he was flat towing and it dropped into gear on him.
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Old 02-23-2011, 03:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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You know, I was thinking the same thing, why one side and not the other... but I just realized I haven't looked at the other side! I guess I should do that. I know it looked like it was sitting lower on the passenger side, but the driver's side could be bent too, maybe just not as much. I'll see.
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