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Old 01-02-2011, 12:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default winch drains power!!! HELP PEASE!!!

I pulled the cable out about 50 ft to rewind it a little nicer! We dragged a tire to put a little tension in the cable, it did fine for about the first 30 ft. We stopped to give it a break! I started reeling it in with rpm of sammy @ 2200 and when i engaged the winch it killed the sammy. I tried again only to have little to no pull at all. Plus the rpm would drop to the point of killing the sammy everytime i tried the winch! So I let the batt charge for about a while and it pulled in the rest of the cable fine! Should i run two batt and/or get a new, stronger alt.??? New Sammy owner thanks for the input!
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Old 01-02-2011, 12:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds to me like you might want to have the winch checked - or maybe the battery is on it's last legs

Yes - winches do drain power, and you may well need two batteries and a bigger alternator, but with just the load of a tire, I don't see why you'd have that much draw that the engine dies.
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Old 01-02-2011, 01:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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First let me start by saying thanks for replying! I was giving it gas while running the winch and it bogged the motor to the point of killing it! Luckly I was at home! But in your opinion would a gm alterator "fix" that problem? I just bouht a brand new 8000lbs Warn winch, pulling the old one off the seller wanted to keep it! I need to do something so i can use it with no problems! Thanks again!
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Old 01-02-2011, 06:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You can't fix the problem unless you know what the problem is.

First question - which winch is draining power? The old or the new?
Second question - since there was a winch installed before - what alternator is on it now?

If you want to throw parts at it, I can't stop you, but, there are more cost effective ways to do things - and from what you've already posted it sounds like the winch has a problem or may have been incorrectly installed.

I'll repeat what I told you before - get the winch checked - dragging a 50~60 pound wheel across the pavement is not a significant load, and should not cause that much current draw that the engine dies.
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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First, the stock alt really doesn't have the umph to feed a single stock battery running a winch.
Notice I said stock twice in that sentence.
If you really want to run a winch, there are a few things you want to look into.
The first is a larger capacity battery.
Next is a larger alt.
Then an isolator.
Then a thumb accelorator lever.
Not necesarily in that order.

Raising the RPM's definately helps, but it is easier to do it if you have an extra hand, or thumb lever on the shifter to bump the RPMs and lock it in.


A larger battery with more capacity really helps. If you can drop in a second one, all the better.

Ignore the blue isolator in the pic, because it was cheap and died very quickly. See below for replacement.

A larger alt can be installed with a kit from the vendors, or if you have a little time and a mill - do it yourself.


Then to make sure you still have juice after you winch, a good battery isolator/combiner is almost a must have.


Ok, I cheated with the last pic, but I can't find a decent pic of mine and it's cold and dark outside right now... but I have the same model in mine.
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Old 01-03-2011, 01:11 AM   #6 (permalink)
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A winch can easily deplete even a good battery. You can check the age of yours by deciphering the date code on the top. Use the web to lookup the coding scheme. If it's 4 or more years old, it's probably time. When choosing a replacement battery, the BCI group 25 size fits pretty well. If you're going to be winching, be sure to get a deep-discharge type, NOT the mixed-use marine-starting battery. The Samurai engine is so easy to turn over that starting is not the concern here. A lot of winchers are happy with the (somewhat expensive) yellow-top batteries. They have the kind of reserve capacity needed for winching and survive repeated deep discharges, whereas starting batteries don't. The stock Zuk alternator is rated at 45-50A, depending on model year.
A winch can draw 300-400 Amps when pulling hard. No alternator you can fit in a Zuk will supply this much current. A dual battery system, using one of the marine-style dual battery switches can work. If you run the winching battery flat, you can still get started again and drive home. A high-output (~100A) alternator can delay battery discharge when winching, and speed-up battery recharge. But you'll need to run a new, separate alternator-to-battery charge wire (6 gauge or larger) to avoid blowing the fusible link which protects your wiring harness and the rest of your Zuk.

Edit: I fully realize that this diatribe doesn't address your immediate predicament, but when you do get it sorted out, these are some additional points to consider. (I'm still thinking battery -- minimum current draw (at zero pull) for the Warn M8000 is 80 Amps!)

Last edited by Merlin93; 01-03-2011 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:02 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin93 View Post
A winch can easily deplete even a good battery. You can check the age of yours by deciphering the date code on the top. Use the web to lookup the coding scheme. If it's 4 or more years old, it's probably time. When choosing a replacement battery, the BCI group 25 size fits pretty well. If you're going to be winching, be sure to get a deep-discharge type, NOT the mixed-use marine-starting battery. The Samurai engine is so easy to turn over that starting is not the concern here. A lot of winchers are happy with the (somewhat expensive) yellow-top batteries. They have the kind of reserve capacity needed for winching and survive repeated deep discharges, whereas starting batteries don't. The stock Zuk alternator is rated at 45-50A, depending on model year.
A winch can draw 300-400 Amps when pulling hard
. No alternator you can fit in a Zuk will supply this much current. A dual battery system, using one of the marine-style dual battery switches can work. If you run the winching battery flat, you can still get started again and drive home. A high-output (~100A) alternator can delay battery discharge when winching, and speed-up battery recharge. But you'll need to run a new, separate alternator-to-battery charge wire (6 gauge or larger) to avoid blowing the fusible link which protects your wiring harness and the rest of your Zuk.
This was my point - dragging a tire across the pavement is not pulling hard.

We know the alternator is working because once the battery was given time to recharge he was able to wind the cable in, but in my opinion, the current draw required to move the spare appears to be excessive.

Yes - once the first problem is identified & resolved, he may need a new battery, a bigger battery, two batteries and/or a bigger alternator in order be able to use the winch - but bearing in mind that the previous owner had a winch fitted, the next (second) step would be to determine what if anything along these lines had been done prior to his purchasing the vehicle.
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Old 01-03-2011, 11:09 AM   #8 (permalink)
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From all the posts and your replies it sounds like you might have shorted out the motor in some way. If it was pulling fine before then all the sudden it stopped and the sammi is ok then it would seem to be the winch.
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Winch pulled, then failed to pull, motor ran charging battery and winch pulled. Sounds like your battery is about to die. I just installed a new winch on my zuk with two batteries. One time in the previous several weeks, my zuk had cranked slow after sitting several days. So before connecting the new winch, I had my electrical charging system checked at Auto Zone. Bad battery, even though it started my zuk.
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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It was the old winch that is on now, and i'm pretty sure it is the stock alt. I am putting the new winch on tomorrow to see what happens! If I still encounter the problem I will start with a new stronger battery!
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