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Old 11-15-2010, 05:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Removing tailgate

I need to temporarily remove the rear tailgate on my '87.

I tried punching out the pins in the hinges- they didn't budge. Tried loosening the 2 hinge bolts- they're TIGHT. And it looks like the paint might break if I loosen them.

What's the best way to do this?
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Consider the hinge screws just like the door hinge screws. Remove them with the tailgate closed. You can use a chisel or heat. Here is a decent article that gives a few of options.

ZNO Billet Hinges
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Old 11-16-2010, 08:18 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Do the pins come out going up or down, or does it matter? I can see a knurl on the pin, but don't know if they have a head or are just straight pins.

Thanks,
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Old 11-16-2010, 08:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The pins will come out with a press, but I have never been able to use the hinges afterward. They don't go back in 'factory tight' after that. Better to remove the screws.
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Old 11-16-2010, 08:50 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Don't try to remove the pins or cut the hinges like you would do your doors.

What you want to do is remove the two pozidrive screws attaching the hinge to the body. If you don't have a tool like this, the best method I have found is to cut a notch in the screw head and attempt to turn it counter-clockwise by hitting a cold chisel firmly with a hammer. I used a Dremel tool with a 1 1/2" EZ Lock cut-off wheel to cut the notch.

This method worked on the tailgate hinges and the 4 screws that hold the roll bar to the floor/wheel well just recently for me.Reassemble with new hex flange head or socket head bolts.
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Old 11-16-2010, 02:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haptown View Post
If you don't have a tool like this, the best method I have found is to cut a notch in the screw head and attempt to turn it counter-clockwise by hitting a cold chisel firmly with a hammer. I used a Dremel tool with a 1 1/2" EZ Lock cut-off wheel to cut the notch.
I don't have that tool (although it looks cool), and I want the doors off NOW, so I'll try your trick.

Thanks to you and Bill for the warning on the pins. That's why I come here!

FWIW, I'm using the Zuke to haul my Rodenator (Google it) around. We have thousands of prairie dogs, spread over close to 3,000 acres and I'm spending this winter reducing the population. I want to set the Rodenator up in the 'Zuke and use it as an ATV with a windshield and heater. I'll be driving all over the pasture and the Zuke is easy on the prairie grass. With the tailgate out of the way, I'll have easy access to the O2 and propane bottles (protector goes back on the O2 before I drive back home, of course).
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Old 11-16-2010, 02:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Plenty of Rodenator clips on U Tube! Looks like you are going to have fun. I ROFLOL'd when I saw a guy hit the button and blast a rodent straight out of the hole!
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Old 11-16-2010, 02:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The screws are locked using Suzuki's special thread locker sealant and it doesn't hurt (except maybe to your paint) to apply heat to the bolts to melt the sealant.

On the pins, I saw a thread somewhere recently where someone did the hinge mod on the tailgate, and when he opened the tailgate, it fell off. It seems that the pin is fixed on the top part of the hinge on the tailgate instead of the bottom as on the door.

Does it work on moles? I have what seems to be thousands of moles on my .5 acres.
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Old 11-16-2010, 02:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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PB blaster and a torch.....
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Old 11-16-2010, 05:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haptown View Post
It seems that the pin is fixed on the top part of the hinge on the tailgate instead of the bottom as on the door.

Does it work on moles? I have what seems to be thousands of moles on my .5 acres.
That's what I thinking. The knurling at the top suggest that's where it's held, not at the bottom.

The Rodenator will _destroy_ moles, but it's kind of pricey for just that purpose.
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