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Old 10-08-2010, 09:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation Please Help!!!! Before Sammy Puts Me In The Poor House!

I recently rebuilt my samurai tired, wore out 1.3L factory motor with new 9.5 to 1 pistons bored .20 over and new Iskenderian cam. New rings, bearings, carburetor, headers, exhaust and new wires, plugs, cap, fuel pump, fuel filter, the works! The truck ran okay except for the running rich on the Weber 32/36 through the break in period about 500-700 miles. Now for the bad stuff:

I use to have a Weber 32/36 carburetor and replaced to a new Weber 38 hoping this would correct my running problems but it hasnít. The truck will run at an idle but as soon as it is put in a load situation it dies. So I said OK it has to be a fuel issue, took the tank off cleaned and check for flow, replaced the fuel filter and everything was good. Thinking it was a vacuum leak I did the carburetor cleaner test and no air leaks. I have checked the timing, replaced jets, tried electric fuel pumps, fuel regulators, and nothing works it still dies and runs rough! I did notice the vacuum advance was not working so I put a new vacuum advance on the distributor and still no good it still runs rough and dies under load. I recently decided to install the new MY-Side Harley Carburetor update and just do away with the Weber and still the same problem HELP ME THIS SAMMY IS GOING TO PUT ME IN AN EARLY GRAVE or EMPTY Wallet (wait; my wallet is empty after all this!)
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Old 10-09-2010, 10:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Does it die when you rev it up all the time or just when you are trying to drive it? Can you rev it up under the hood without it dying? I know this sounds stupid but I had a rear pinion bearing lock up one time and everytime I would let out the clutch I would go a little bit and then die, but it sounds like a fuel issue, maybe check fuel pressure on new pump you installed to see if it is getting the proper amount of fuel. Sometimes you can get a bad fuel pump from factory. Maybe vacuum problem like stuck open EGR valve?
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Old 10-09-2010, 04:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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what was your indicator that it was running rich on the 32/36? Did you make sure to change out your plugs when you swapped carbs to the 38?

Make soure your carb has a vacuum advance line. If you ran the vacuum advance off of manifold pressure, you would be running with your timing advanced all the time (including idle) If you have your idle adjusted or timing adjusted at idle with your vacuum advancing your dist off of manifold pressure, then you need to readjust your timing and idle speed. Just leave the vacuum advance capped off for now.

Some of the 38's DO have vacuum advance ports. if this is the case then I'm barking up the wrong tree.
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Old 10-10-2010, 04:18 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer37 View Post
Does it die when you rev it up all the time or just when you are trying to drive it? Can you rev it up under the hood without it dying? I know this sounds stupid but I had a rear pinion bearing lock up one time and everytime I would let out the clutch I would go a little bit and then die, but it sounds like a fuel issue, maybe check fuel pressure on new pump you installed to see if it is getting the proper amount of fuel. Sometimes you can get a bad fuel pump from factory. Maybe vacuum problem like stuck open EGR valve?
It only dies under load, stitting in the garage it revs fine. If you go in reverse its fine. I will try a new pump hopfully thats it. I will keep you posted! Thanks!
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Old 10-10-2010, 04:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Baratacus View Post
what was your indicator that it was running rich on the 32/36? Did you make sure to change out your plugs when you swapped carbs to the 38?

Make soure your carb has a vacuum advance line. If you ran the vacuum advance off of manifold pressure, you would be running with your timing advanced all the time (including idle) If you have your idle adjusted or timing adjusted at idle with your vacuum advancing your dist off of manifold pressure, then you need to readjust your timing and idle speed. Just leave the vacuum advance capped off for now.

Some of the 38's DO have vacuum advance ports. if this is the case then I'm barking up the wrong tree.
Black some, eyes burning, bad, bad fuel economy 12-14 mpg running 235's. I have put in three new sets of new plugs; one on the new rebuild, one on the 38 and now one set on the myside 2! I always ran the advance line off the line indicated on the Weber port and now on the front of the myside, never off the manifold...way too much vacuum and this can damage the seal in the unit!
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Old 10-10-2010, 05:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Well replaced the pump and it still runs like crap, I'm about ready to tear back into it to see if something is wrong in the head or something???
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Old 10-10-2010, 08:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Man that's kinda annoying...
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have the same problem except I'm running 32's and I just put in a 1.6 8 valve that was running perfect put new timing belt on it and gaskets and put the weber 32/36 on it. now it won't run. if i put the transfer case in 4low it will go just fine even if I dont lock the front in.
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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if it's giving you the same exact issue with 3 different carburettors, then it's most likely not the carbs or the fuel delivery. What is your timing set at? With the Isky cam you may need to adjust your ignition timing.
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Old 10-12-2010, 03:54 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baratacus View Post
if it's giving you the same exact issue with 3 different carburettors, then it's most likely not the carbs or the fuel delivery. What is your timing set at? With the Isky cam you may need to adjust your ignition timing.
Thats where I'm looking now, it acts like a bad cam. I have set the timing all over the place with no luck! It acts like a bad lobe. I will keep you posted. The only way it will crank now is to keep the starter going and going and it will finally take but wont stay running.
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