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Old 08-31-2010, 09:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Timing belt tension??????????/

My daughters boyfriend has an 88 Sami with supposedly the 1.3.
The bearing went on the water pump.
Took the front end apart and did the conventional water pump, idler and belt senario.
Here's the kicker, our local parts supply store (Lordco) supplied the parts but the timing belt was wrong for this engine.
The belt they sold us had the square cut teeth and the one we needed or the one we took off had the rounded teeth. So we did the return swap and installed the new belt. Can't seem to get it tight on the idler side.
Anyone have any suggestions?
The new belt is just slightly shorter than the old one which is reasonable being new verses old.
The parts guy at Lordco said that the second belt was listed for the newer 1.6 eight valve.
All looks like it is okay but not sure about the loose belt??
Mismatched parts on the front of this engine?
It is a 1988 Samaria standard 4X4 five speed.
How does one tell the difference between a 1.3 and 1.6?
How about a picture of the front of the engine?
Thanks one and all for your help.
Regards.
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The 1.6 is a taller block, but unless you have them side by side you can't tell from that. This is why the belt won't tighten up - it's too long.

His 88 should have a mechanical fuel pump. The 1.6 will have an electric. Look at the left side of the head and see if there is a mechanical fuel pump towards the rear. All of the 1.6's that I have worked on also had '1.6' on the belt cover.

The teeth on the belt changed later (I think it was in 90 with the fuel injected 1.3) so it is possible to get either style when asking for a Samurai belt. Have them verify the year in the catalog at the parts store.
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:23 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply Bill.
The front cover was off and not to be seen.
I am thinking that the idler pulley might be suspect?
Anyone have a picture of what it's suppose to look like or a post
to view the front of this engine with the cover removed?
Eye suppose tooth count might lead us in the right direction.
Any idea how many are suppose to be on the proper one?
Appreciate your help.
Regards.
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Unless someone posts sooner, I can get a shot or two of the one I have in the garage on a stand.
Another way to see what block you are talking about is to look at the top edge on the passenger side where it meets the trans. The size should be cast into the block there.


the 1.3 will have either 1298 or 1324 cm3.
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:30 AM   #5 (permalink)
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read the Sammi TSB, they even warn of 2 belts one with squarish cogs and one with rounded cogs. you need to look up your belt on the GATES rubber home page
and look at the CATALOG and find the TRUTH.

do not buy fleabay parts for the motor unless you do your home work
find mfg name, are they good, do they have a web page with support and pn and legit.
no name parts are crap.

buy by name , by catalog and by pn, search by PN and win.



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Old 09-01-2010, 11:31 AM   #6 (permalink)
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G13L

the L is the year. no guessing. and uses the same rules as VIN 10.



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Old 09-01-2010, 07:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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thanks kick.
i think the adjusting mechanism is suspect.
first belt was square cog teeth and it was much too short to work.
second belt was of the rounded teeth and the belt fit the sprockets as they were
supposed to, fit was ideal.
problem is trying to take up the slack.
seems the belt is slightly too long.
i think the adjuster is wrong or maybe the idler is of the wrong diameter, too small?
could this be possible?
kid didn't buy this sami new and he doesn't know the history, nor eye.
flubberblasted.....don't know how to correct this.
the belt is of quality, not fleabay.
don't know if this engine is of mismatched parts or ??
will plow through this.
thanks for your help...
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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ouch, not fun ,
id find someone with blown motor and pull these parts. misc
or just buy them out right from suz.
they are very cheap.
im no sammi expert but i have an EPC
and 88 comes in 88 and 88.5 so you need to find out which it is.

lots of changes 88.5 ( and more at sn 392803~)

cam wheel same pn,
idle diff pn
tension arm diff. ppn
and many diff springs,
and oddly a diff cam key piece. implies diff cam. but is not.
so they have a cam key piece up grade, longer i think it has size there.
found it 89 key is 1.2mm longer.

wow , sammi's are hard ,

may i recommend posting to here.



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Old 09-01-2010, 09:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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thats bad advice but thats par for course.
the sping is useless once the motor is running and stud locked.
the spring only works and applies tension during the tensioning process with
the stud and idler loose 1 turn.
the tenson bracket must not be bent
so you rotate the crank 2 turns CW and he tensioner presses the idler against the belt and all slack is removed.
if it dont help it by tapping on it lightly.

the spring does work on un damaged motors. , loose perfeclty fitting parts .
the belt runs with amost no tension. it very little.

that why the spring is so small.

the guy thru his spring away because the parts to fit right.
IMO



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Old 09-01-2010, 09:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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thanks kick.
wish we had that amount of adjustment left on our bracket.
not sure if that belt is the square or round cog type.
that picture looks the same as what we have as far as adjustment pieces.
it all helps.
a morsel or two at a time and it will come together.
it was said that the 1.6 is longer than the 1.3.....will the 1.6 head fit the 1.3?
just trying to sort this smorgazbored out.
regards.
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