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Old 07-05-2010, 11:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Of all the Samies on Graiglist, why the one I bought?

I've done some search's but just couldn't boil it down to the questions about my Samy.Bare with me, just have a few specific questions.

Grinding noise from tranny in all gears but fourth: Low Oil? Where and how do I check the oil in a manual transmission?

Now the blinker fuse (10a) is blowing: hazards still work. any ideas on where to start trouble shooting? I'm an electrician by trade but never wired a car. I have the tools just not the automotive know how on electrical wireing. I undstand process of elimination, just would like a better place to get started

Petroworks installed new rebuilt carb and still many problems: Stalling while driving and seems like the foats, but a local mechanic told me lack of fuel? as soon as i took it to get smoged, it woudn't stay running. ultimately it failed due to lack of cat converter. it was the only way I could get a temp reg for it. damn DMV...

The carb I bought it with was a Weber and was piped wrong so built up pressure and blew out the front main seal: what is the easiest way to replace that seal? damn BP oil slick on my driveway now.

now slightly smoking blue (oil) is it the rings or maybe something in the head? Took it out last week and got on a 25deg hill side and as soon as we got on flat ground, it smoked for a while then kinda cleared up. but still just a little smoke while running...
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Old 07-06-2010, 11:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dube2 View Post
I've done some search's but just couldn't boil it down to the questions about my Samy.Bare with me, just have a few specific questions.

Grinding noise from tranny in all gears but fourth: Low Oil? Where and how do I check the oil in a manual transmission?
There is a filler plug on the passenger side (okay, right for you Limey-types!) on the transmission. You should feel oil when you stick your finger in the opening. Most likely the damage has been done. It's time to get a rebuild kit ($150-175) and fix the tranny.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dube2 View Post
Now the blinker fuse (10a) is blowing: hazards still work. any ideas on where to start trouble shooting? I'm an electrician by trade but never wired a car. I have the tools just not the automotive know how on electrical wireing. I undstand process of elimination, just would like a better place to get started
Grounds. The Samurai Curse. Check them all. The body is the return path for most circuits. A lifted ground can cause current to flow in unpleasant ways.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dube2 View Post
Petroworks installed new rebuilt carb and still many problems: Stalling while driving and seems like the foats, but a local mechanic told me lack of fuel? as soon as i took it to get smoged, it woudn't stay running. ultimately it failed due to lack of cat converter. it was the only way I could get a temp reg for it. damn DMV...
Lack of fuel might possibly be caused by a plugged fuel filter or a fuel pump installed in the engine bay sucking on a leaky fuel line. If foats = floats, it is possible that the float valve is full of junk. Then again, you said that it was a freshly-rebuilt Weber from Petroworks... That might not be the problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dube2 View Post
The carb I bought it with was a Weber and was piped wrong so built up pressure and blew out the front main seal: what is the easiest way to replace that seal? damn BP oil slick on my driveway now.
Very carefully!
replacing the front seal requires you to remove the big bolt on the end of the crankshaft. A broken crank bolt is the number ONE destroyer fo Samurai (and TracKick) engines! Clear everything out of the way before doing so by removing the fan shroud, removing the accessory pulley (remove the 4 bolts that attach it to the crankshaft timing belt), the timing belt cover, the timing belt (do not turn the crank or camshaft if you can avoid it!), the big bolt and the crankshaft timing pulley to get at the front seal - which is on the oil pump. Refer to the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for proper torquing procedures. You can find one at Ack's FAQ (see link in signature) by doing a search for fsm. The FSM will also help you with tracing electrical problems. Plus, if you do a search for diagram you can view/download Samurai wiring diagrams (even a color one!) too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dube2 View Post
now slightly smoking blue (oil) is it the rings or maybe something in the head? Took it out last week and got on a 25deg hill side and as soon as we got on flat ground, it smoked for a while then kinda cleared up. but still just a little smoke while running...
I don't know about this...

I hopt that I have been of some help!
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ack View Post
Lack of fuel might possibly be caused by a plugged fuel filter or a fuel pump installed in the engine bay sucking on a leaky fuel line. If foats = floats, it is possible that the float valve is full of junk. Then again, you said that it was a freshly-rebuilt Weber from Petroworks... That might not be the problem.
If I read the OP correctly, it has a new rebuilt carb on it. If he is dealing with smog, it is probably not a Weber, but a stock Hitachi.

I have a freshly rebuilt Hitachi carb on mine. I believe a combination of bad gas and old lines has caused me some idle issues.

Reinstalling an old line on a fitting can cause bits of rubber to break loose and clog carb passages.

I put a new line from the fuel pump to the carb with a fuel filter on it, and plan to replace all the lines. I then pulled the drain plugs and blew the jets out with carb cleaner and blew the pilot jet out as well. I also sprayed carb cleaner in all the available ports inside the throttle body and the fuel inlet and bowl vent. After putting it back together, it still did not idle, but after a few hundred miles it finally started idling.

I recently lost the idle again, and just sprayed the pilot jet out with carb cleaner. That did not fix it right away, but after I did a couple of acceleration to redline starts the idle came back.(I had tried that previous to blowing the pilot jet out, but it did not help.)

Check out Ack's FAQ Suzuki Sidekick and Geo Tracker 4X4 offroading information There are Suzuki Factory Service Manuals located there, along with a ton of other stuff that can lead you in the right direction. For the carb, make sure all the vacuum lines and celectrical connections are routed properly and then run through the checks to make sure everything is working. I've done that(several times) and it has let me narrow the likely problems I have had down to trash in the carb.

My experiences with a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pumps have usually been that the engine will run fine up to a certain load, and then fall on its face(lose power) at higher loads. Sometimes it will only happen in lower gears as the float bowl has enough gas in it to handle the short load times in lower gears, but then runs low when kept at high loads.

Did it run good with the Weber on it? If so, then that would seem to eliminate the filter and pump as a problem.
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Old 07-13-2010, 04:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hey Guys, yes any help is good. an update. So the (stock) carb that Petroworks installed seems to be better since the mechanic adjusted the idle, it still only runs at about 700-800RPM at idle. No stalls since.

Got a lot of different estimates on the tranny rebuild, i think petroworks told me $600 for a rebuilt that's me installing it, i think?.

Changed the fuse again and ran it for 30 minutes using the blnikers left and right trying to get it to blow again. no dice, I'll find it eventually.

The oil leak is much less than origianlly I assume because the carb is now piped correctly and the block is now breathing properly.

now I have a brake fluid leak, I'll track it down eventually. No oil on the ground so must be in the wheel.

Also found a muffler shop to install a cat conv for $250, not a bad deal for sure. most said $300 plus.

Added some stop leak in the oil this past weekend and at this time no oil on the driveway. maybe it just needed that little help, but still smokes blue just a little. I'm sure it's more than just some stop leak to fix. either way, i have more time to fix other items.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dube2 View Post
I've done some search's but just couldn't boil it down to the questions about my Samy.Bare with me, just have a few specific questions.

Grinding noise from tranny in all gears but fourth: Low Oil? Where and how do I check the oil in a manual transmission?

Now the blinker fuse (10a) is blowing: hazards still work. any ideas on where to start trouble shooting? I'm an electrician by trade but never wired a car. I have the tools just not the automotive know how on electrical wireing. I undstand process of elimination, just would like a better place to get started

Petroworks installed new rebuilt carb and still many problems: Stalling while driving and seems like the foats, but a local mechanic told me lack of fuel? as soon as i took it to get smoged, it woudn't stay running. ultimately it failed due to lack of cat converter. it was the only way I could get a temp reg for it. damn DMV...

The carb I bought it with was a Weber and was piped wrong so built up pressure and blew out the front main seal: what is the easiest way to replace that seal? damn BP oil slick on my driveway now.

now slightly smoking blue (oil) is it the rings or maybe something in the head? Took it out last week and got on a 25deg hill side and as soon as we got on flat ground, it smoked for a while then kinda cleared up. but still just a little smoke while running...
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04 Chevrolet 3500HD
08 Yamaha WR450
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